Kizan ★★★★☆ 4.6This restaurant is run by Chef Kanamori, who spent 16 years honing his skills as the last disciple of Kyo-mi before becoming independent. The essence of Kyo-mi lingers not only in the dishes but also in the tableware and atmosphere, showcasing his dedication to preserving tradition while continuously refining his own culinary style.The course I had that day was beautifully seasonal, featuring a variety of dishes such as assorted appetizers, young lotus root, grilled eggplant with sea urchin, sea bream from Akashi, a soup with soft-shelled turtle and tofu, tempura of rockfish, simmered vegetables, mozuku seaweed with crab, and dishes made with pike eel, all maintaining a consistent sense of the season.What stood out the most was the dashi (broth). The soft-shelled turtle soup had a perfect blend of the turtle's umami and the tofu, resulting in an exceptionally refined bowl. The simmered vegetables highlighted the deliciousness of the dashi itself rather than the individual ingredients. It was a subtle flavor typical of Kyo-ryori, gently permeating the body without being overwhelming.The tempura of rockfish was also outstanding. The batter was light, and the cooking was flawless. The dipping sauce was of high quality, enhancing the fish's umami without overpowering it. This dish was particularly memorable within the course.The grilled eggplant with sea urchin was delightful as well. The eggplant was surprisingly juicy, soaking up the dashi beautifully, and paired perfectly with the sweetness of the sea urchin. The sea bream from Akashi had a beautiful texture, and the pike eel with plum paste was elegantly balanced, with the acidity of the plum not overshadowing the fish's flavor.The final dish, pike eel rice, left a lasting impression. It was so delicious that when I requested a second serving, they grilled the eel again over charcoal and prepared another bowl for me. The fragrant eel and rice soaked in dashi kept me engaged until the very end, and the simmered beef paired excellently with the rice.Even the dessert of kudzu noodles and matcha was flawless, maintaining a high level of quality throughout.The overall quality of the dishes was exceptionally high, with the impression of the dashi remaining consistent until the end. Rather than competing for extravagance, the careful layering of dashi, cooking techniques, and the natural flavors of the ingredients resulted in a profound sense of satisfaction after the meal. I look forward to seeing how this restaurant evolves in the future.This establishment strongly conveys its commitment to sincerely refining its cuisine while inheriting the lineage of Kyo-mi. I would love to return in a different season.
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