I visited Shokudou Aca for the first time, a place that many food enthusiasts admire. Although it’s located in Azabudai Hills and differs from the Aca in Nihonbashi, I believe the concept remains the same, so I’d like to share my thoughts. First, I was impressed by the professionalism and friendliness of the chefs. They are still young, but I witnessed a rare sight of three chefs collaborating to create a single dish. This high level of commitment to becoming great chefs inspires diners to approach their meals with respect. Next, I reaffirmed my belief that the evolution of Spanish cuisine leads to a borderless culinary experience. Dishes like sweetfish escabeche, grilled Spanish mackerel, and hamo arros caldoso (rice soup), as well as roasted Kobe beef sirloin cap, are commonly seen in Japanese cuisine. They actively incorporate high-quality Japanese ingredients, enhancing them with unique seasonings and sauces. Their dedication to cooking techniques is evident; I personally believe that the way food is cooked is the core of every dish. While Aca is known for its wood-fired cooking, Shokudou Aca uses charcoal due to regulations at Azabudai Hills. From my 30 years of experience with irori (traditional Japanese hearth), I can say that wood and charcoal are entirely different. The aroma of the fire varies, and even if charcoal is charred, it doesn’t carry the scent of burning wood. I suspect this is where the differences between Aca and Shokudou Aca lie. Another notable feature was that the meat was not aged, resulting in a rare rather than medium-rare center. One dish that left an impression was the paella, which was soft and cooked like a risotto with only octopus and garlic as ingredients. Personally, I prefer a slightly firmer texture with a crispy bottom and the aroma of saffron, but if this is the highly praised paella from Aca, I understand the choice. I noticed they used a dome-shaped lid, similar to those used in teppan-yaki, during cooking. That must be the secret.In summary, my experience at Shokudou Aca can be described as progressive Spanish cuisine, or cocina española moderna. However, it doesn’t seem to be something to revere as if it were on a cloud.
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