*This post is AI-translated, please understand.* Currently, as "Mekumi" makes a short-term entry into the United States, "Sushi Jube" in Fukui reigns supreme in the sushi scene of the four prefectures of Hokuriku, quietly leading to a change in the sushi hierarchy. The main purpose of my trip to Hokuriku was to visit this restaurant and "Ebi-tei" in Toyama. Despite refreshing the reservation page multiple times on the opening day, it was fully booked. I had almost given up, but miraculously secured a lunch reservation for the end of September during a brief moment of free time, marking the beginning of my intense round trip of 300 kilometers in one day. Seated at the single slab counter made of Nara cypress, I was first overwhelmed by the restaurant's astonishing "absolute confidence in sourcing." There were no preliminary dishes like appetizers; it started with a powerful introduction featuring mackerel, rich in ocean aroma. Next came the impressively large Toyama sweet shrimp and surf clam. The chef presented these ingredients with no unnecessary seasoning, only salt and soy sauce, showcasing the overwhelming natural flavors of the ingredients. This style, which asserts the pride of a new king, left a strong impression. The juicy grilled ribbonfish and ginkgo nuts signaled the arrival of autumn before transitioning to the sushi. While I felt a slight regret that the shiny fish for the sushi was herring instead of the expected Pacific saury, the rice was perfectly suited to my taste, more than compensating for it. Unlike the intense acidity and saltiness found in traditional Edomae sushi at places like "Sushi Sakai" or "Shinbashi Shimizu," the rice here was mellow in both acidity and saltiness, with the contours of each grain standing out remarkably. The rice, maintaining a slight firmness at its core, perfectly complemented the robust fat of the local Hokuriku seafood. I definitely want to revisit this restaurant during crab season when it reaches its "complete form." Additionally, the deep trust between the owner and the local prestigious brewery, Kurodai Sake Brewery, was impressive, with orders for "Kurodai" echoing from various chefs, further enriching the terroir of this local fine dining experience. The course, which includes six appetizers and twelve pieces of sushi for JPY 30,000, is extremely valuable considering the current price surge in Tokyo. The price of JPY 10,000 for two servings of Kurodai may vary in evaluation depending on one's affection for this brewery.
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