Kodaiji Wakuden, a traditional Japanese restaurant located near Kodaiji Temple, was founded in the 3rd year of the Meiji era (1870) by the first owner, Wakuya Den'emon, as an inn in Kyotango. In 1982, it relocated to its current location at Kodaiji. The restaurant is housed in a Japanese-style building constructed in 1952 by the renowned carpenter Nakamura Toi, and it was originally the residence of the head of the Onoe school of Japanese dance. It has been awarded two Michelin stars.Upon arriving at the restaurant, I was warmly welcomed by three staff members. I lost count of how many people greeted me before I even entered the room.I requested a comfortable room with a sunken kotatsu on the second floor. The building, over 70 years old, has a charming atmosphere, and the view of the city from the window is exceptional.The staff member attending to us that day was a young beauty from Okayama, providing excellent and attentive service.We started with a refreshing cup of yuzu tea.Next, we enjoyed Japanese sake served in a bamboo tube along with appetizers. The bamboo tube was labeled with the restaurant's name.◇ Appetizers A dish that evokes the season, served on a leaf of iris. ◎ Hairy Crab with Lotus Root Sauce and Shiso Flowers The firm meat of the hairy crab was delicious, and the crunchy lotus root sauce was delightful, complemented by the refreshing aroma of shiso.I ordered a chilled sake from Kyoto. ○ Tamagawa Icebreaker This was my first time trying chilled sake served over ice. It was crisp and delicious.○ Whitebait and Sansho Leaf Tempura Seasoned with salt, it was lightly salted, allowing the natural flavor of the whitebait to shine through. The aroma of the sansho leaf added a spicy touch.◎ Tanba Beef with Flower Sansho This was my first time eating such a generous amount of flower sansho. The wonderful aroma and slight spiciness were irresistible. The Tanba beef was incredibly tender and of the highest quality. The dipping sauce had a rich dashi flavor and a delicate seasoning.◎ Gifu Black Bear with Flower Sansho This dish had a robust flavor. There was no gamey taste from the bear. It was fatty but not overwhelming, and personally, I found it tastier than beef.◎ Matsunotsukasa Junmai Daiginjo A sake from Shiga. The details were not specified on the menu. It had a floral and refreshing taste, with a good balance of sweetness and umami from the rice. It paired well with any dish due to its crispness and dryness.◎ Salt-baked Tuna with Nobiru Soy Sauce ◎ Aori Squid from Zushi The tuna was rich and melted in my mouth. I used the soy sauce pickled nobiru as a substitute for regular soy sauce, which paired well with the wasabi. The aori squid was served with a miso made from sansho leaves.◎ Osaka Green Eggplant with Crispy Rice The impressive green eggplant from Osaka was grilled over charcoal in the room. It was thick and very juicy. This dish allowed me to enjoy two different textures by combining it with crispy rice.◎ Grilled Eel with Onion Sauce The texture of the eel was incredibly firm! The skin was grilled to a crisp. This was the best eel I have ever had. I enjoyed one piece with salt and another with the onion sauce, which highlighted the natural sweetness of the onion. I have eaten eel from famous restaurants in Tokyo, but I personally preferred this one.◎ Tsuki no Katsura Kohaku This sake was recommended by the staff. It was delicious—smooth and easy to drink, with a rich aroma. It is brewed by Masuda Tokubei Shoten in Fushimi, Kyoto.○ Baby Octopus, Peas, and Yam A little break. It was delightful and bursting with flavor.◎ Kuwana Clam with White Asparagus An extra-large clam. The rich essence seeped into the soup. Biting into the clam released an intense umami flavor. The white asparagus was cut diagonally, and I had never experienced such a crunchy texture before—it was reminiscent of long green onions.Now, for the finale. You can choose from four options. When I hesitated, I was told I could have as many as I wanted. Being a big eater, I, of course, tried all of them.◎ Striped Horse Mackerel Nigiri with Yuzu Pepper The aged striped horse mackerel was moist and delicious. I ordered three pieces in total.◎ Beef Broth Udon This was a combination of the earlier Tanba beef and flower sansho with thin udon noodles. It was incredibly tasty, generously using the flower sansho. Naturally, I ordered a second helping.◎ Bamboo Shoot Rice The bamboo shoots were cut into large pieces. They were crunchy yet moist and very delicious. The spicy aroma of the accompanying sansho leaves added an accent, further stimulating my appetite at the end.◎ Sakura Shrimp Tempura Rice Bowl The aroma of the shrimp was overwhelming. The tempura was rich in flavor, showcasing the potential of the ingredients to the fullest.◎ Pickled Water Eggplant and Kombu The lightly pickled water eggplant was very juicy. The kombu was packed with umami, making it the perfect accompaniment to the bamboo shoot rice.◎ Miso Soup Red miso with fuki (butterbur) as the ingredient. The aroma of the fuki evoked the season.◎ Saku A popular sake from Mie Prefecture. This was also chosen as omakase. The details were not specified on the menu.◎ Mango from Miyazaki It had a sensual aroma. The balance of sweetness and slight acidity was excellent. It was an incredibly delicious mango.We finished with matcha and sweets. ◎ Pea Monaka with Sweet Sake Ice Cream and Ginger The moist red bean paste and crispy monaka shell were delightful. The subtle sweetness and aroma of the sweet sake were present, with the ginger making its presence known.Of course, the matcha was authentic, prepared properly. The flavor was rich, with a pleasant bitterness that was delicious.The taste of the food, the service, and the atmosphere of the restaurant were all exceptional. Moreover, the generous use of flower sansho in the second helping of beef broth udon left me very satisfied. This is truly a restaurant that excels in the use of sansho.It was a truly delicious experience. Thank you for the wonderful meal.
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