Dinner at Kabuto (かぶと)

Dinner at Kabuto (かぶと)

at Kabuto (かぶと) on 11 July 2026
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Thank you for your hard work, everyone! ( ̄^ ̄)ゞI’ve also started a blog!! Please check it out!!https://nakazaki-kenji.jp/Today, I visited "Kabuto" in Ikebukuro.This marks my 10th visit! (//∇//)The personalities of Mr. Fujimori and the proprietress, the lively cooking atmosphere, and most importantly, the interesting comparison between farmed and wild eel are all highlights!!While there are many famous eel restaurants in Tokyo, I plan to keep coming back here for a while. (^_−)−☆Let me briefly introduce the restaurant. _φ(・_・The previous owner was Kazuo Iwai.He trained at the eel restaurant "Kabuto" in Shinjuku's Omoide Yokocho and opened "Kabuto" in Ikebukuro in 1948 after branching out.Mr. Iwai was a true craftsman with a strong commitment to eel, sourcing only the best from both wild and farmed varieties, and using only the finest ingredients, from katsuobushi to sugar, salt, and chopsticks.He provided freshly filleted and grilled eel, creating a taste that left customers saying they could never eat eel from other restaurants again, quickly making it a popular spot with his stubbornness and sharp wit.Some of his famous quotes include:- "I don’t steam the eel; I grill it fresh for you."- "If you can’t tell the difference between the eel you’ve eaten before and our farmed eel, I won’t serve you wild eel."- "Our sansho pepper is special, but first, please try it without. If you still want sansho, you can leave without paying."Since April 2016, the Fujimori couple has taken over as the second generation.They have created a more homely atmosphere, which has become quite popular.They have consistently held the top spot in the eel category on Tabelog.Most of the eel in Japan is now farmed...Wild eel accounts for less than 1% of the total.Moreover, about 80% of Japan's consumption is now imported eel.China is a well-known exporting country, but in the past, it was the European eel, Anguilla anguilla, which is characterized by its short, thick body, high fat content, and thick skin and flesh.Recently, American eel (Anguilla rostrata) and Indonesian eel (Anguilla bicolor) have become mainstream.The eel you eat at supermarkets and chain restaurants is mostly this type.Due to the influx of cheap imports, the number of eel farmers has decreased from about 3,000 to fewer than 400...However, with brands like "Bando Taro" and complete aquaculture by Kinki University, I believe domestic eel will be revitalized in the future!!Complete aquaculture has come a long way in the last 1-2 years, nearing the stage of commercialization!!Particularly, 2025-2026 will be a significant turning point!!From May 2026, the world’s first test sales of grilled eel from complete aquaculture will reportedly begin, priced around JPY 4,500-5,000 per eel!!While still a luxury item, this transition from "something that only exists in laboratories" to "something that can actually be sold" is monumental.In the past, it cost tens of thousands of yen to produce a single artificial glass eel, but improvements have been made in recent years.According to reports, the costs have decreased as follows:- 2016: about JPY 40,000- 2023: about JPY 1,800There are still many challenges, such as survival rates, mass production, energy and feed costs, and legal regulations.However, the Fisheries Agency has begun allocating budgets for commercialization support, with reports of around JPY 700 million in support by 2026.It is predicted that we will be able to break free from dependence on wild glass eels and achieve full-scale proliferation around 2030. d( ̄  ̄)Japan's eel is the Japanese eel, Anguilla japonica.It has a slender, smart body with a green or black back and a white belly mixed with yellow, characterized by small eyes and a lower jaw that protrudes beyond the upper jaw.Eels with a yellow belly are called "munagi" and are said to be the origin of the word "eel."Japanese eel is known for its rich umami flavor, thin skin, and firm flesh.While they are often imagined to be caught in rivers, wild eels can actually be found in Tokyo Bay as well.Eels are said to travel from Japan to the Mariana Islands, and some spend their entire lives in the sea.By the way, they are incredibly long-lived, with an average lifespan of 20 to 30 years, and there are reports of eels living 85 years in aquariums abroad and 155 years in a garden well. ( ゚д゚)I got off at Ikebukuro Station on the Fukutoshin Line and headed to the restaurant.It took about 5 minutes to walk from Exit C6 to reach the restaurant.While waiting at the restaurant, the proprietress guided us to our seats one by one.She still looks beautiful! (//∇//)Upon entering, Mr. Fujimori greeted us energetically.He was full of enthusiasm right from the start today!!And as always, the service was incredibly attentive. (//∇//)I sat at the counter and greeted Mr. Fujimori.He explained the course to me first, asking whether I wanted a whole eel or half for the shirayaki and kabayaki.Of course, I requested a whole eel for both! ( ̄^ ̄)ゞNext to me, there were two beautiful women sitting, which made me a bit nervous at first, but I was really happy to chat with them a little towards the end. (//∇//)Since it was July, I was able to enjoy wild eel this time!!I decided to go with only wild eel today. d( ̄  ̄)Today’s eels are from the Shimanto River and Lake Shinji.For my drink, I, of course, had a soda highball with Kanemiya. d( ̄  ̄)Kabuto offers a variety of Japanese sake, but Kanemiya pairs perfectly with the slightly richer flavors!!I ended up ordering a stronger flavor towards the end and got a bit tipsy. ( ◠‿◠ )Alright, let’s start the omakase course!!I’m going to fully enjoy the eel today!!- Eggplant This is eggplant with vinegar miso. The eggplant is incredibly juicy and sweet. The skin is soft and has no bitterness. The vinegar miso is rich and tangy, perfect for a hot day. ( ◠‿◠ )- Grilled Eel (Sauce) This is the head part, steamed in the Kanto style. The outside is grilled to a crisp, while the inside is tender and fatty! There are bones, but they can be easily bitten through. The sauce is light and full of flavor without being heavy. ( ◠‿◠ )- Grilled Eel (Salt) This is grilled in the Kansai style without steaming. The salt enhances the eel's flavor even more. It’s farmed, but the aroma is delightful. I prefer this one over the sauce. d( ̄  ̄)- Grilled Tenderloin The texture is crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, with concentrated umami!! This is incredibly juicy and delicious!! I had two pieces, and it pairs perfectly with the drink. (//∇//)- Tofu (Oomomo Tofu) Served with Tsushima's sea salt. Eating it plain reveals a rich flavor and wonderful bean aroma!! This tofu is truly delicious!! Adding salt enhances the sweetness even more. (^◇^)- Grilled Liver Crispy on the outside and chewy on the inside, the light umami of the liver is fantastic!! There’s a slight bitterness, and I could enjoy this every night with drinks!! Since it’s freshly filleted, there’s no odor at all. ( ゚д゚)- Bite-sized Kabayaki Although the skewer is small, the flavor is incredibly rich!! I’m surprised that even farmed eel can have such umami!! It made me crave rice even more. ( ゚д゚)- Skewered Eel This is from just before the tail. It’s hot, flavorful, and the aroma of the eel is wonderful. The salt enhances the flavor, making it perfect with shochu. ( ◠‿◠ )- Tail Wow!! The flavor is intense!! It’s packed with umami, and I can’t get enough!! This part is well-exercised, so it’s full of flavor. (^◇^)- Heart I popped the still-pulsing heart into my mouth!! It’s dangerous to chew, so I swallowed it whole!! I feel like I’ll be full of energy starting tomorrow. ( ◠‿◠ )- Grilled Tenderloin (Wild) I got to enjoy the wild one!! The aroma is incredible!! It’s crispy and delicious!! This is as rich as the liver!! Wild eel is truly different. (^◇^)- Pickles These are pickled vegetables made from organic or reduced pesticide vegetables. Today’s vegetables are cucumber, carrot, asparagus, konjac, and zucchini. They are rich in flavor and have a wonderful aroma!! I particularly loved the zucchini!! This pairs perfectly with Kanemiya!!- Shirayaki This is the shirayaki of wild eel (//∇//) This one is from the Shimanto River. It looks thick and delicious!! The skin is crispy and chewy!! It’s sweet and fatty, and the flavor is incredible!! The aroma is amazing!! The lingering freshness is reminiscent of a river, and I’m enchanted!! Even after finishing, my lips feel sticky. ( ゚д゚) I’m so glad I got to eat this. (//∇//)(//∇//)(//∇//)- Kabayaki The kabayaki is also wild (//∇//) Just the aroma of it grilling makes me even hungrier!! This one is from Lake Shinji!! It’s also thick and large!! Even though it’s wild, it’s not heavy at all. ( ゚д゚) I can’t believe there’s such a difference between wild eels from Shimanto River and Lake Shinji. ( ゚д゚) It’s tender, sweet, and delicious. (//∇//)(//∇//)(//∇//)- Rice I had a large serving again today!! It’s cooked a bit firmer, and the more you chew, the sweeter it gets!! Once the sauce seeps in, it becomes even more delicious, and I devoured it. (//∇//)- Liver Soup They shaved katsuobushi just before serving it with kombu to make the broth!! This is hot and has a light umami flavor that’s the best!! The liver is chewy and has a delicate umami flavor. ( ◠‿◠ )Once again, I got to savor every part of the eel!!I really feel like I won’t be able to eat eel anywhere else!!Here’s what I had today:1. Eggplant with vinegar miso2. Grilled Eel (Sauce)3. Grilled Eel (Salt)4. Grilled Tenderloin (Farmed)5. Tofu (Oomomo Tofu)6. Grilled Liver7. Bite-sized Kabayaki8. Skewered Eel9. Tail10. Heart11. Grilled Tenderloin (Wild)12. Pickles13. Shirayaki (Wild)14. Kabayaki (Wild)15. Rice16. Liver SoupStarting with various skewered eel parts,ending with shirayaki and kabayaki, it was all incredibly delicious. (//∇//)Today, I enjoyed wild eel for the first time in a while!!I had two types from the Shimanto River and Lake Shinji, and I was surprised at how different they were in color, aroma, and taste. ( ゚д゚)I got to taste freshly filleted eel in all its parts without missing a thing!!Personally, I love the tenderloin, grilled liver, and tail!!The tofu I had in between was also delicious!!This is what tofu should be!! It brought back memories of the tofu I ate as a child!!The pickles were also delicious, and they made me want to drink more. (^O^☆♪Most importantly, I had a great time chatting with Mr. Fujimori!!While filleting and grilling, he never misses a chance to engage with customers!!Every time I visit, I always leave wanting to come back again!!Today, both the eel and the service were exceptional. (//∇//)Thank you, Mr. Fujimori and the proprietress, for today!!I’ll visit again in October or December. (>人<;)

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