I had my first visit to "Maison KEI," the first location in Japan by Chef Kei Kobayashi, who continues to earn three Michelin stars at Restaurant KEI in Paris. This renowned restaurant in Gotemba is also known for its collaboration with Toraya and has been selected as a Tabelog BRONZE and one of the top French restaurants.This time, I ordered the VOYAGE course (JPY 9,800, tax excluded). For drinks, I chose a mocktail made with red shiso grown in their own fields. It had a strong acidity and sweetness, and was visually stunning.**Amuse-Bouche** The amuse-bouche included four items: a green plum granita, a pastry made with local salami, a tart with pickled red onion and salmon, and confit tomatoes with molokhia. The green plum granita reminded me of the red shiso granita featured in the movie "La Grande Maison Paris." The pastry combined the saltiness of salami with the richness of black pepper and cheese, while the refreshing tart with smoked salmon and yogurt mousse offered a delightful contrast, allowing me to enjoy different flavors with each bite.The seafood soup, "Soupe de Poisson," was impressive with its rich aroma of shellfish and saffron. Served in a small cup, it was meant to be enjoyed by hand, but caution was needed as it was quite hot.The appetizer featured sweet shrimp paired with peach gazpacho and wasabi mousse. The rich umami of the sweet shrimp harmonized beautifully with the elegant sweetness of the peach, the acidity of the tomato, and the refreshing kick of the wasabi. The balance of flavors was outstanding, leaving a lingering taste of shrimp that I wanted to savor.The most impressive dish was the signature "Garden Salad." Using over 30 types of vegetables harvested from their nearby fields, it was finished with lemon juice foam, black olive and almond crumble, and various sauces. The method of mixing until the foam disappears was also memorable. With sauces made from arugula, anchovies, and tomatoes, along with smoked salmon, the flavors changed with each bite. Each mouthful revealed a sequence of saltiness, sweetness, bitterness, acidity, and umami, creating a remarkable experience of flavor transformation. This was the first time I felt such a clear change in taste, and I was moved with every bite. It was a unique dish that is hard to find elsewhere.For the fish course, I had Kinmedai (Golden Eye Snapper). The skin was crispy while the inside was cooked rare, paired with a sauce of muscat grapes, black olives, white wine, and butter. The addition of freshly picked mint and lemon added a refreshing touch, beautifully complementing the tender fish and sauce.For the main course, I upgraded to pigeon for an additional fee of JPY 3,500, using the same source as the Restaurant KEI in Paris. After being cooked slowly at low temperature, it was finished with miso for a fragrant touch, and the cooking was perfect. The natural umami of the pigeon was intense, enjoyed alongside liver and red wine accompaniments, as well as a sauce made from chicken broth. The inclusion of a meringue dessert was a delightful surprise. The thigh meat was served separately as herb-roasted, allowing for a bite-sized piece that could be enjoyed by hand.For dessert, I had a "Bashuran" created in collaboration with Toraya. It featured lychee and raspberry sorbet with mint and basil sauce. The refreshing acidity of the fruit combined with the herbaceous flavor of basil, striking a balance without being overly sweet, felt like an extension of the meal. Breaking the beautiful meringue with a spoon added to the enjoyment of the texture.After the meal, I was served coffee and hojicha panna cotta, along with a dessert filled with Toraya's sweet red bean paste. This was an off-menu suggestion, but I was surprised to see it listed as "cafe" for JPY 2,700 at checkout without prior explanation regarding its inclusion or cost. While the dessert itself was excellent and satisfying, the lack of prior notice was disappointing.The quality of the food was exceptional, and the attentiveness of the staff from the moment I arrived until the end of the meal reflected a high level of service. Therefore, I believe that if there had been an explanation regarding the coffee charge, it would have made for a more pleasant conclusion to the meal.If I were to evaluate solely based on the food, I would say that the experience of having the garden salad alone is worth the trip to Gotemba. The dishes showcased high skill and creativity, and I enjoyed learning about the ingredients sourced from their fields. I look forward to future operational improvements and hope to visit again when the opportunity arises.It was a great meal.
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