A representative gem of Matsuyama, Kuruma Sushi.Founded in 1976, Kuruma Sushi is led by the second-generation chef, Koji Takahira, who aspired to be a sushi chef from a young age. After graduating from high school, he studied authentic Edomae sushi in Tokyo and honed his skills before returning to his hometown of Matsuyama to take over the family business.Having earned two Michelin stars at a young age, this renowned establishment attracts sushi lovers from all over the country. However, what sets this restaurant apart is not just the use of high-quality ingredients.From sourcing the fish to the moment it is served, every detail is meticulously considered to ensure the fish shines at its best. The chef personally performs the delicate tasks of nerve-killing and blood removal, and manages the aging process of the fish with precision in both time and temperature. Every aspect, from the way the fish is cut to the pressure applied when forming the sushi, and the combination with the rice, is designed to enhance the flavor of the fish.The chef’s philosophy of "acting as a supporting role to let the fish shine" is evident in each dish served that day.Most impressively, the creativity here does not aim to break tradition. While rooted in Edomae sushi, the chef assesses the condition of the ingredients and applies the necessary techniques for that day’s fish.On this particular day, there was a focus on grilling techniques and dishes featuring fish liver, allowing us to fully appreciate the chef's skill in understanding and utilizing every part of the ingredient.First, we were amazed by the local spiny lobster. A dish featuring an estimated 10-year-old lobster, deep-fried and served with its rich roe. The luxuriousness of the lobster is enhanced by the depth of flavor developed over years.Next, the lobster broth was served without any added seasonings, allowing the pure umami of the lobster to shine through. This is a bowl that could only be created with absolute confidence in the ingredient.The nerve-killed yellowtail was paired with a plum sauce.The red sea bream was prepared as shabu-shabu, served with maca.Steamed abalone was accompanied by a liver sauce.Then, a risotto-style dish combining the abalone liver sauce with vinegared rice. This dish beautifully incorporates the liver, allowing us to savor the ingredient as a whole.The Spanish mackerel was served with a sauce made from onions and salt koji.The scorpion fish included its stomach, showcasing the chef's deep knowledge of each ingredient, leading to the perfect pairing.The squid was cut with a knife sharpened on a 30,000-grit whetstone. At this point, it’s clear that simply "cutting with a knife" doesn’t do justice to the skill involved. The sharpness of the knife alters the texture and sweetness experienced in each bite. This dedication to the unseen details is what defines the sushi at this restaurant.We enjoyed:- White sweetfish- Black throat perch- Swordtip squid- Fatty tuna, including the prized kama-toro- Male blue crab- A large horse mackerel, also known as "oni-aji"And the experience continued to impress:- Steamed sweetfish sushi- Red sea bream- Prawns, which were described as particularly sweet due to their diet.We also had:- Whiting- Locally caught kuruma shrimp- Red sea urchinThe chef personally handled the sea urchin, avoiding the common practice of soaking it in saltwater. Sea urchin is a delicate ingredient whose aroma and sweetness can change dramatically based on handling. The meticulous care taken here ensures that no fleeting moment of flavor is lost.The conger eel was steamed and grilled with bamboo leaves, enhancing the aroma.We also enjoyed:- Egg custard with yamAdditionally, we had:- Horse mackerel- Striped jack- Gourd rollsEven after this feast, rather than feeling a sense of sadness at the end, I was left wanting to start all over again. What is remarkable? To be honest, there was nothing "ordinary" about the dishes that day. Every element had its purpose. The reasons for nerve-killing, aging, grilling, using liver, and pairing with other ingredients were all clear. The continuous sharpening of the knives was also purposeful. And these reasons transcended mere logic, connecting to the profound delight experienced with each bite.While many sushi places today emphasize creativity, Kuruma Sushi stands apart from the trend of easy fusion sushi. It is also distinct from traditional Edomae sushi establishments. With a deep understanding of tradition, the chef assesses the local fish from Matsuyama and the Seto Inland Sea, determining the best way to present each ingredient at its peak.Thus, each piece of sushi possesses its uniqueness, yet cannot be simply described as "creative." It is, I believe, sushi crafted to showcase fish at its absolute best, completed through the chef's skill and passion.The ingredients are exceptional. However, that alone wouldn’t evoke such strong emotions. The technique is impressive, yet the dishes are not merely showcases of skill. Everything is aimed at making the fish shine. This unwavering commitment is evident in every dish served at the counter.It is remarkable that such sushi exists in Matsuyama, and that there are fish and a chef's artistry that can only be found in this region.This is not just a sense of satisfaction from having eaten high-end sushi. There is a craftsman who pours passion into facing each ingredient and delivering it at its finest moment. The emotional impact of experiencing such dedication firsthand lingers.There was not a single ordinary dish or piece of sushi. I want to return to this counter again. Without a doubt, this sushi restaurant is a reason to visit Matsuyama.
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