I visited Tempura Koizumi, a renowned tempura restaurant in Kanazawa that I had been looking forward to during my trip.The restaurant is about a 12 to 15-minute walk from Nomachi Station, or a 2-minute walk from the "Katamachi" bus stop. It is located on a quiet back street in Ikeda-cho, just off the bustling streets of Katamachi, and the traditional townhouse with a noren (curtain) gives it a distinctly Kanazawa atmosphere.The owner, Seijiro Koizumi, is a chef with experience at tempura restaurants, Japanese cuisine establishments, and sushi shops in Osaka and Tokyo. Recognized with two stars in the Michelin Guide Hokuriku 2021 Special Edition, it has also received the Tabelog Award 2026 Bronze and is listed among the top 100 tempura restaurants in Japan, making it a representative of Kanazawa's culinary scene.The ingredients are primarily sourced from the ports of Fukui, Himi, Nanao, and Kanazawa, featuring seafood along with local vegetables and wild plants. The course I enjoyed that day included many regional ingredients such as Kaga lotus root, white shrimp, sargassum, bracken, and boufu.Here’s what I had in the course:- Vinegared Horse Mackerel with Bracken: A dish where the richness of the horse mackerel meets the acidity of vinegar and the unique aroma of bracken, making for a memorable introduction before the tempura.- Sashimi of Sea Bream and Cuttlefish: The sea bream had a refined umami flavor, while the cuttlefish was sweet and tender, showcasing the chef's careful handling of the fish.- Aged Squid (10 days): This had a delightful sweetness and a sticky texture, with a delicate batter that didn’t overpower the squid’s natural flavor.- Fava Beans: These were fluffy and sweet, and while simple, frying them enhanced their aroma.- Whiting: The flesh was fluffy, the batter light, and the subtle umami of the white fish was beautifully preserved.- Boufu: With its fresh aroma and slight bitterness, it provided a nice accent amidst the seafood.- Tempura of Sargassum topped with White Shrimp and Caviar: This dish left a strong impression. The ocean scent of the sargassum, the sweetness of the white shrimp, and the saltiness of the caviar combined to create a bite that encapsulated the essence and elegance of Hokuriku.- Zucchini: When bitten, it released moisture and sweetness, and despite being fried, it didn’t feel heavy.- Side Dishes of Pickled Shallots, Tomatoes, and Vegetables: The acidity and freshness prepared my palate for the next tempura, making it even more enjoyable.- White Fish: Although I couldn’t identify the type, it was a gentle tempura with a fluffy texture that highlighted its delicate umami.- Lotus Root (Kaga Lotus Root): Its chewy and sticky texture was impressive. The sweetness intensified with each bite, making it a dish that truly represented Kanazawa.- Oyster: Cooked to retain its milky essence, the crispy batter paired well with the rich umami of the oyster.- Onion: Sweet and creamy, it was simple yet satisfying.- Conger Eel: The flesh was plump, the batter light, making it a fitting star dish towards the end of the meal.- Meal of Tempura Rice and Tempura Tea: The tempura rice was fragrant, and the tempura tea was light with dashi, providing a refreshing finish that left me wanting more.- Mugwort Ice Cream: This elegant ice cream had a gentle mugwort aroma, with a subtle sweetness that beautifully concluded the meal.Overall, Tempura Koizumi is a place to quietly savor Kanazawa's ingredients and craftsmanship. The batter is light, the cooking of each ingredient is meticulous, and there is a sense of stability throughout the course. Rather than flashy presentations, it’s a restaurant that gradually layers the aromas and textures of Hokuriku's ingredients. While the prices are on the higher side, it’s a place where you can truly appreciate the significance of enjoying tempura in Kanazawa.
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