Jingumae.A quiet street that retains a hint of old-fashioned shops, slightly removed from the hustle and bustle of Omotesando.At the back of the stone steps, which have been lightly splashed with water, the Michelin two-star Japanese restaurant "Higuchi" quietly displays its noren (curtain).Photography is not allowed inside the restaurant.However, it is permitted only during private reservations, and fortunately, we had the entire 8-seat counter to ourselves this time.We thoroughly enjoyed the chef's craftsmanship, the flickering charcoal flames, and the heat from the grill.The charm of this place lies in its "cooking technique" and "dashi" (broth).In recent times, many Japanese restaurants have leaned towards an emphasis on ingredients and presentation, but this one is different.While using the finest ingredients, it is the meticulous work with dashi and the temperature control through grilling, frying, and steaming that truly brings the dishes to life.First, we had:◯ Abalone, lily bulb, and bracken fern with golden sesame, garnished with kinome (Japanese pepper leaf).The abalone is gently simmered to tenderness.The comforting texture of the lily bulb, the slight bitterness of the bracken fern, and the richness of the golden sesame come together beautifully.The kinome sharpens the flavors.It’s a quiet dish, yet deeply flavorful.Next:◯ White asparagus and clam porridge.The clam dashi seeps gently into the body.There’s nothing flashy about it, but it’s delicious.A dish like this reveals the quality of the restaurant.Then, we were overwhelmed right from the start by:◯ Grilled sweetfish and young corn.Charcoal-grilled nori (seaweed) serves as a base for the skewered sweetfish.On top, there’s fried young corn.A special miso made from a blend of Hatcho miso and red miso is brushed on.Wrapped in nori, it’s crispy.The concentrated umami of the sweetfish and the fragrant young corn, with the rich depth of the miso.Additionally, the crispy head is served on a separate plate, meant to be enjoyed like a cracker.The strength of the grill here is extraordinary.When I lifted the lid of the misted bowl, I found:◯ Sea bass soup.The clarity of the broth is stunning.A gentle aroma wafts up.It encapsulates the bliss of Japanese cuisine.For sashimi, we had:◯ Yellowtail◯ Sea urchin◯ Sea breamThe moist, rich texture of the fat is truly elegant.Next came:◯ Young sweetfish from Lake Biwa◯ Mugwort tofuAnd then, for the fried dish:◯ Venison cutlet.The cross-section is a glossy rose color.The joy of savoring the iron-rich red meat is sublime, elevating the wild flavors to a refined level.The highlight was:◯ Soft-shelled turtle hot pot.Packed with plenty of Kujo green onions.With mochi (rice cake) inside.The aroma rising from the bubbling pot is beyond mere collagen; it’s pure "umami in its essence."And the true highlight of this restaurant is the finale.First:◯ Koshihikari rice cooked with koshiabura (Japanese wild vegetables).The aroma captures the essence of the mountain vegetables, served as is.Then, the skewered sweetfish is grilled in a kabayaki style and quickly mixed in:◯ Sweetfish rice.The finale continues to impress.They even serve soba (buckwheat noodles), which is quite remarkable.As someone who usually eats lightly, I was able to finish everything beautifully, which speaks to the overall design of the meal.Before dessert:◯ Miyazaki "Sun Egg."After that:◯ Kudzu noodles◯ Almond tofu◯ Monaka ice cream.The black syrup is exceptionally delicious.The kudzu noodles and even the almond tofu are served with black syrup and soybean flour, maintaining the context of Japanese cuisine.The monaka (wafer) is grilled over charcoal, filled with rum-flavored ice cream.The skillful use of fire is evident until the very end.The leftover koshihabara rice and sweetfish rice were made into onigiri (rice balls) for us to take home.As for drinks:● Super thin glass draft beer● Kenzo Estate "Asatsuyu" and "Rindou"● Sake liqueur from Senkin● Hakurakusei.The vessels, temperature, and aroma.Even the way the drinks are served is impeccable.Recently, many hard-to-reserve restaurants prioritize presentation and rarity, often neglecting the essential quality of the food.However, Higuchi is different.While firmly rooted in classic Japanese culinary techniques, it seamlessly blends modern sensibilities, cooking techniques, and aesthetic composition at a high level.Moreover, it feels approachable and somewhat friendly.Three and a half hours.Before I knew it, the time flew by.I always think, "I want to come back, I want to bring my family."But it’s a highly sought-after restaurant.That’s its only flaw, but it’s understandable.It was a great meal.
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