A Leader in Japanese Local GastronomyA Culinary Style Reflecting the Land's Climate and StoriesOwner Chef: Harutomo HagiFounded in Iwaki in 1998, honing his craftRevamped to focus on local ingredients and wood-fired cooking after the earthquakeQuickly established this unique styleLimited to a small number of guests, showcasing his skills aloneA warm and lively atmosphere created by the wood fireDaily sourcing from the mountains and seas of FukushimaThe aroma of wood and far infrared heat elevates the ingredients to their peakHis skills were recognized, achieving the remarkable feat of cooking at the Élysée Palace, delivering Fukushima's flavorsA symbol of Japan's refined local cuisineInformation from a friendVisited on a holiday with a reservationIn a quiet residential area on a small hill in IwakiHouses with white walls and chimneys stand peacefullyEvoking the charm of a French countryside townArrived about 30 minutes before the start timeTwo other cars, equally excited, were waiting quietly in the parking lotAbout 15 minutes before the start, all car doors opened simultaneouslyPassing by the rumored wood stacked neatly by the entranceWe all stepped inside together, greeted by more wood, a necessity for the culinary magicianOpening the next door after the entranceMadame warmly welcomes usToday, three groups of eight guests start simultaneouslyThe chef prepares the wood fire in the back kitchenSimple wooden plates and utensils are set on the tableChopsticks are engraved with Iwaki cedarThe chopstick wrappers are printed with "Made in Fukushima"Philosophy subtly revealed even in these detailsFrom my seat, I can see the wood-fired ovenA custom oven made with French bricksThe warmth of the fire gently warms my cheeks, and anticipation quietly fills the airOnly one type of course is offered, showcasing simplicityThe menu displays local premium ingredients prominentlyYou can feel the philosophy of the restaurantThe drinks take center stage with pairingsNon-alcoholic options are available, and Madame provides careful guidanceThe focus is on wines from France and FukushimaWithout hesitation, I request the pairingsAfter a short wait, the first drink is servedAyala's flagship champagneAged in the bottle for at least three yearsA prestigious Champagne houseFresh and pure fruit flavors gently open the curtainNow, the first dish arrives• Junsai, Sea Urchin, Fugu, Yuzu SproutsLarge, pesticide-free junsai is refreshingThe elegant aroma of Iwaki's fugu bone brothThe sweetness of sea urchin and yuzu sprouts brings early summerA first touch that resonates with all five sensesNext is a cold dish• Botan Shrimp, Okra, Amazake, Kame no OKame no O is a mythical sake rice for brewingThe soft acidity and sweetness of the fermented amazakeSpecial vinaigretteThe rich sweetness of the shrimp and the umami of misoThe refreshing crunch of okraExpanding the world of fermentationYou can feel the essence of this restaurantThe second cup of sake comes from a promising breweryFounded in 2022 in Minamisoma CityPukupuku BrewingDoburoku flavored in liquor barrelsNow, the magic of the wood fireThe wood is said to be from Miharu Town• Mehikari, Jerusalem Artichoke, Fermented Chinese CabbageMehikari, a representative fish of IwakiSwimming like a green waveThin skin grilled to a crisp with a delicate lattice patternRoasted to perfection over wood fire, the flesh is surprisingly fluffyHigh-quality fat spreads in the mouthBones are also cleanly removedDelicate, small deep-sea fish treated with careA puree of Jerusalem artichoke with deep sweetnessThe refreshing acidity of fermented cabbage harmonizesThinking I should be careful not to drink too much doburokuI can't resist the deliciousness, and my cup keeps fillingNext, a cold pasta dish arrives• Green Peas, Sea Bream, Rice NoodlesPeas harvested at 4 AM, each pod peeledThe chef personally harvested and prepared them in the car on the way backTime is of the essence, yet this luxurious dish took two hours to prepareThese are no ordinary green peasNo grassy taste, just a fruity sweetnessThe broth of sea bream and fine rice noodles gently embraceThe white wine is ChardonnayFrom the top domaine in MâconAndré Bonhomme's Viré-Clessé 2023Grapes from over 50-year-old vines are usedNow, freshly baked bread is served• Wheat (Fukushima's pesticide-free sun-dried wheat)Homemade bread from wheat grown in Tamura CityFreshly baked, fragrant, with a crispy exteriorMoist and chewy on the insideI can't stop wiping the sauce with my breadA small serving of homemade butterMade from freshly squeezed milk• Flower Zucchini, Tomato, CheeseGently cooked over wood fireFreshly made cheese melts inside the flowerThe sweet and sour taste of tomato brings everything togetherAnother white wine, from Tom MoreyTop domaine in SantenayBurgundy Chardonnay 2023Fresh acidityRisotto• Blue Crab, Tamagotake, Kame no OThe rich umami of crab and the flavor of Kame no O come togetherThe local wild Tamagotake mushroom stands outWith a unique texture, plump and crunchyFrom Alsace, the master Marc TempéPracticing biodynamic winemaking, respected worldwideA wine that loves Japan and pairs well with Japanese cuisineA signature item of this restaurantA vintage 2019 from a great yearA collectible item• Morning Harvest Corn, Anago, SanshoAnago from Tohoku, a hidden famous ingredientGrilled to perfection over wood fire, tender and fatty insideThe pure sweetness of morning-harvested cornA refreshing sansho pepper adds a kickA wonderful contrast of flavorsAgain, from Mâcon, André BonhommeLimited release aged sakeMacon Villages 1996Amber glow and honey aroma• Potatoes, Watercress, KoshiaburaPotatoes slowly steamed over wood fireThe earth's power drawn out to the limit by far infrared heatSurprisingly fluffy with rich sweetnessThe freshness of watercress and the aroma of wood fireA wild sauce enhanced by spring mountain vegetables, KoshiaburaThe powerful taste of Fukushima's earthFrom Koriyama, a summer nigori sakeRefreshing effervescence and pleasant acidityPure rice flavor from natural brewingFlames rise from the straw fire• Bonito, Bell Pepper, MyogaPremium summer bonito with rich fatWrapped in the fragrant aroma of wood fire and smokeThe refreshing taste of shredded myogaThe red sauce matches perfectlyThe fruity sweetness and richness of ripe bell pepperA limited sake from Aizu Miy泉From the renowned brewery, SharakThe sharp umami elegantly cuts through the fat of the bonitoBonito pairs perfectly with sake• Manganji Pepper, SawaraMore surprising than MehikariPerfectly grilled SawaraThe flesh is fluffy and melts in your mouthThe vibrant green sauceRich sweetness unique to Manganji pepperA hint of bitterness hidden withinElegantly enhances the quality fat of SawaraThe lingering aroma of domestic ChardonnayFrom the cool terroir of Yoichi in HokkaidoA glass that the chef personally visited and fell in love withPure and beautiful acidity and mineralityThe main dish, slowly roasted over charcoal• Fava Beans, Lamb, AburachangStrawberry sheep from Okuma TownSaid to be specially fatty this timeLamb roasted slowly over wood fireNo gamey taste, sweet and juicyA harmony of Japanese spicesFluffy fava beans elevate the meat's umamiThis time, only red wine for the finaleI was presented with a selection of bottlesDunbury Ridge Pinot 2022Pétrus from EnglandYoung and vibrantSilky tanninsTo conclude the pairings, I chose a dessert wineSelected from several recommendationsRequested a SauternesThe second from RieussecThe sweet aftertaste of honeyToday was a wonderful pairingEach dish resonated with the chef's philosophyDessert• Natural Ice (4th Generation Tokujirō) Freshly Squeezed MilkCherries, Himekonatsu, Pawpaw, StrawberriesMelting like powdered snowFleetingly disappearing in the mouthThe pure richness of freshly squeezed milkLuxurious colors of local fruitsThe fresh sweetness and acidity of seasonal fruitsFinally,• Herbal TeaThe aroma of freshly picked herbs envelops the aftertasteAt the end of the feast, Chef Hagi himselfCame from the kitchen to our tableWith a gentle tone typical of a Fukushima nativeBut the passion conveyed from within made my heart swellThe mastery of controlling the heat of wood fire and far infraredThe overwhelming craftsmanship poured into early morning harvesting and preparationAnd the deep pride in cooking alongside trusted producersEach dish tells the story of life in FukushimaThe aroma of wood fire and the umami of fermentationThe skill that elevates the power of ingredients to their peakA unique art recognized at the Élysée PalaceI am convinced of the true value of local gastronomyThe lingering satisfaction of a fulfilling night spreadsI would love to visit this restaurant again.It was a great meal.
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