【The Ultimate in Local Production for Local Consumption | An Auberge Gathering Guests from Across the Country】I visited "L'évo" in Nanto City, Toyama Prefecture for lunch.This French restaurant is a hidden gem that attracts guests from all over the country.It has been awarded two stars in the "Michelin Guide Hokuriku 2021" and has received the "Chef of the Year" award twice in 2017 and 2022 from "Goûts et Saveurs."On Tabelog, it has won Gold for three consecutive years from 2023 to 2025, and in 2026, it was selected for Silver and as one of the Innovative 100 Restaurants.The restaurant prides itself on local ingredients, from wild herbs and game to seafood, as well as tableware and decor, showcasing the ultimate in local production for local consumption.Owner-chef Eiji Taniguchi, who has gained experience in restaurants both domestically and internationally, has created an innovative dining experience that embodies his ideals.After driving along a mountain road, I arrived at a wooden building with a black exterior. Surrounded by nature, it stands out against the green mountains and blue sky, creating a quietly stunning atmosphere.I was first guided to a waiting room with large glass windows overlooking the trees. My anticipation grew as I moved to the main dining area.Beyond the door was a spacious open kitchen and tables lined up by the windows. The warm smiles of the kitchen and service staff welcomed me.I was surprised to see so many kitchen and service staff in this mountain location as I made my way to a private room.▶ What I Ordered・Lunch CourseA welcome drink made from tree sap signaled the start of the course. My heart raced quietly in anticipation of the dishes to come.▷ Prologue・Beet Meringue with Chicken Liver Mousse・Gougère made with Toyama Goat Cheese・Shrimp Chips with Sticky Rice × White Shrimp with a Smoked Aroma・Sweetfish and Sawtooth Herb Croquette・Fried KoshiaburaThese bite-sized finger foods felt like they had emerged from the forest. They were visually delightful, and each bite offered a glimpse into a different world.The freshly fried Koshiabura, served by hand, released a refreshing aroma and a slight bitterness upon tasting.▷ Mackerel (Rice Flour Bread)The mackerel was marinated in citrus, served atop udo, with a crispy pastry underneath, and garnished with herbs and wild plants from the area.The flavor of the blue fish combined with the citrus freshness and the greenness of the wild herbs created a clear taste. The crunchy texture of the finely sliced udo complemented it beautifully.▷ Echigo Bay ShellThe Echigo Bay shell, a notably large spiral shell found in Toyama Bay, was presented as a dish with its shell serving as a vessel, topped with a sauce made from the shellfish's broth and peas.The tender yet slightly chewy meat of the shellfish was flavorful and free of any strong taste, while the elegant aroma of the peas was impressive.▷ Tsuki no Wa BearThis bear meat was hunted by a dedicated hunter and aged for about a month.It was mixed with a paste made from kogomi, hakobera, and thistle leaves, which bears love. Accompanying it was a jelly made from bear consomme and honey.I was surprised by the lack of any gamey taste. As I chewed the meat, I could faintly recognize that I was eating bear, a flavor distinct from the usual meats.Previously, when I had bear at another restaurant, I remembered feeling overwhelmed by a flavor I had never experienced before, so this difference left a quiet impact on me.▷ Water Octopus (Potato Bread)Slices of octopus legs were quickly grilled over wood, filled with a mixture of octopus suckers and three types of radish, including red-fleshed daikon.The juicy, well-textured legs contrasted with the plump, bouncy suckers and the crispiness of the radish, which was not overly pronounced.The plum sauce, shiso sprouts, and perilla oil brought a refreshing harmony, hinting at the approaching summer.▷ Firefly SquidThe firefly squid, a spring delicacy from Toyama, was fried while still alive. It was suggested to enjoy it first as is, then dipped in soup.The soup was based on asparagus, with salted cherry blossom petals floating on top. The remaining soup could be enjoyed as a drink.Holding it with chopsticks, I was reminded of its size. The moment I tasted it, the texture burst in my mouth, releasing a rich, creamy flavor and bitterness that filled my palate, making me smile.▷ Daimon SomenWild fuki no to was infused in oil and combined with a rich goat cheese soup, while the somen was cooked al dente.I had always thought goat milk had a strong, distinct aroma, so I was surprised to find that it could be beautifully extracted. Like coffee and milk, the slight bitterness of the fuki no to paired wonderfully with the goat milk. The texture of the somen and its gentle saltiness made me close my eyes in delight at the perfect balance.▷ L'évo ChickenThis is the signature dish. They use an entire chicken for two people. Inside, it is filled with chicken breast, thigh, bear fat, and sticky rice cooked with the innards."Please enjoy it with a handshake."With a smile at those words, I took a bite of the beautifully roasted chicken, experiencing its multi-dimensional flavor.▷ Imizu Cherry SalmonEveryone was taken aback by the staff's remark that "L'évo Chicken was just the appetizer" as the main dish arrived.It was marinated in a sweet French wine. I first enjoyed it plain, then on the second bite, I used the accompanying sweet tomato as a sauce.The cherry salmon was moist and perfectly cooked. The rich umami and elegant flavor paired beautifully with the sweet tomato. This combination and the wine pairing was the highlight of the day.▷ Wild Boar (Homemade Natural Yeast Baguette)The wild boar, hunted nearby, was aged and slowly cooked over wood. The delicate flowers of the wild plants peeking through were charming.It was served with a sauce made from game, wild plants, shaku, seris, licorice, and nobiru, combined with sage butter, and accompanied by a puree of white carrot.The exquisite cooking technique made me feel as if I was tasting the mountain itself, evoking something that cannot be expressed merely by the term "local production for local consumption."▷ StrawberryExtremely thin strawberry chips were served with orange sauce, crushed strawberry éclat, and mozzarella cheese espuma.The changing flavors as I mixed them were delightful.The refreshing sweet and sour taste spread without feeling any contours or boundaries, thanks to the thinly sliced strawberries.▷ KuromojiKuromoji flowers, young shoots in compote, kuromoji leaves, caramel puree, caramel powder, and lemon custard cream.I hurried to take a bite before the ice melted. The sensation of the crispy pastry dissolving, along with the aroma, bitterness, sweetness, saltiness, and freshness of kuromoji blended beautifully.▷ Petit FoursWhen I opened the lid, I couldn't help but exclaim, "Wow!"・Kaga Hōjicha Tartlet・Perilla Financier・Choux Ice Cream・Apple Tart・Raspberry and Milk Soft CaramelThese carefully crafted baked goods were a perfect conclusion to the course.Each dish evoked the feeling of spring's awakening. Throughout the meal, the pauses between dishes and the continuous comfort were delightful.As someone who doesn't drink much, I opted for three glasses instead of a pairing this time, and I was impressed by the meticulousness of the combinations.It's no wonder guests gather from all over the country to this mountain location, as there are experiences here that can only be found in this place. The passion and pride conveyed by the staff were also memorable.Ingredients, people, objects, and space. The ultimate in local production for local consumption and avant-garde cuisine. It was a wonderful moment that makes me want to return in a different season.