The restaurant is conveniently located just a short walk from Akasaka Mitsuke Station, and during the day, it operates as a burger joint called Atami.The dining experience is offered exclusively through a course menu, with two seating times at 5:30 PM and 8:30 PM, starting simultaneously. While the courses are somewhat pricey, the quality of the dishes justifies the cost.This establishment is known for its dishes cooked over wood fire, and from the moment you step inside, you are greeted by the delightful aroma of burning wood. Most of the dishes incorporate this wood flavor, allowing you to enjoy both delicate and bold smoky notes.To start, we had a cold somen noodle dish with hairy crab and shiso leaves. The luxurious use of hairy crab from Hokkaido's Funka Bay made for a refreshing dish that truly highlighted the crab's umami.Next, the stir-fried water spinach, a monthly specialty, is a must-try. The aroma of the wood is captured within the hollow stems of the water spinach, releasing a savory flavor with every bite.For sashimi, we enjoyed grilled nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch). Whether paired with salt and sudachi or soy sauce and grated daikon, the rich flavor of the fatty nodoguro is simply irresistible.Following that, we had konbu-dried spiny lobster with sea urchin, which was also infused with wood smoke. The lightly charred surface of the lobster was perfectly cooked, yielding a thick, resilient texture that was utterly delightful.Next was a bowl of sweetfish and taro stem soup. The aroma and flavor of the dashi broth were calming, and the tender sweetfish brought a smile to my face. The crunchy texture of the taro stem absorbed the dashi's umami beautifully, making it juicy and satisfying.The steamed rice with flap meat was incredibly impactful. This rare cut was carefully grilled over wood fire and further infused with whiskey barrel chips. The moment I took a bite, I was amazed by its tenderness. While there was a hint of sweetness from the fat, it was not greasy or heavy at all; the smoky aroma and the rich sweetness from the whiskey complemented the meat's flavor perfectly. The unique texture of the sticky rice paired excellently with the meat.We took a brief pause with a white peach compote, which offered a gentle sweetness, resetting the palate from the previous intense flavors and aromas, making me feel ready for more.Next came the grilled sea eel, which spends its entire life in the ocean rather than migrating to rivers. Since it feeds differently than regular eel, the texture is entirely different—firm and free of any unpleasant odors, with a crispy, fragrant skin. Personally, I prefer this firmer sea eel over the fattier eel often found in restaurants, and it pairs wonderfully with sansho pepper.The hot pot with grouper and abalone was another comforting dish. The clear broth was infused with the grouper's umami, making it so delicious that it brought tears to my eyes. The textures of the abalone and wood ear mushrooms were also delightful, providing a moment of relaxation.For the final course, we started with clay pot rice featuring corn and zucchini. The direct infusion of wood into the pot allowed us to experience the flavor firsthand. The sweetness of the corn was exquisite, and the combination with the smoky aroma was delightful. The first serving was enjoyed plain, while the second serving could be paired with shirasu (whitebait), mentaiko (spicy cod roe), or simmered beef rib. I chose the beef rib, which had a strong flavor that slightly overshadowed the rice's natural taste, but it still allowed me to savor the beef's richness.Another dish was the wood-fired udon. The noodles were infused with the aroma of wood, and when enjoyed plain, the chewy texture and sweetness of the wheat combined with the gentle smokiness made it surprisingly delicious. This udon, handmade at a sister restaurant, is worth a visit on its own. It was also excellent when paired with the wood-smoked egg yolk. I regretted not being able to order a second helping due to being full.The water yokan (sweet bean jelly) was made with Hokkaido adzuki beans cooked with wasanbon sugar, showcasing a refined sweetness that enhanced the flavor of the beans. It was perfectly smooth and a great way to end the meal.Finally, we enjoyed blueberry and yogurt ice cream, where the refreshing tartness of the yogurt spread across the palate, providing a fitting conclusion to the course.Overall, the dishes were a pursuit of enjoyment through both taste and aroma, elevating the natural flavors of the ingredients with the essence of wood smoke. While there were many wood-infused dishes, the aroma never overpowered the meal; instead, the courses were harmoniously balanced, allowing us to fully enjoy the wood-fired cuisine without growing tired of it.This popular restaurant has a long wait for the next reservation, but I am already looking forward to my next visit after such a wonderful day.
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