Maki Tori Shin Kobe, renowned as a difficult-to-book restaurant even after relocating to Akasaka, is not just a Tabelog Top 100 establishment but also boasts the title of Silver in 2026. The reality is that getting a reservation here feels more like an event than just dining. With a two-year waitlist, it’s almost akin to a pilgrimage for aspiring foodies. However, I received a last-minute cancellation notice and booked without hesitation. My decision-making skills in such moments are quicker than at work.The restaurant has a hidden charm, located just a short walk from Akasaka Mitsuke. Its exterior is modest, but upon entering through the noren, a large wood-burning grill comes into view, leading to a theatrical experience of fire and smoke. The atmosphere at the counter is serene, with the aroma of wood igniting my appetite. We started with a toast using Henriot Champagne, followed by a Samuel Billaud Chablis. The chicken fat, smoky flavor, and rich umami from the offal are beautifully complemented by the bubbles and acidity of the white wine.The course begins with thigh meat from Akita's Hinai chicken, followed by the famous Takasaka chicken breast sashimi, white liver, Shizuoka mushrooms, chicken breast, and heart from Yamaguchi's Choshu chicken. Each part is carefully selected from Hinai, Takasaka, and Choshu chickens, showcasing more than just branded poultry. The breast meat retains moisture, while the liver is decadently rich and glossy. The heart has a delightful bounce, releasing iron-rich umami with each bite.The Takasaka chicken shuumai served in a bowl transcends the typical yakitori experience. The clear broth melds with the chicken's umami, focusing on lingering flavors rather than flashiness. The chicken broth with kuzumen is exquisitely refined, providing a refreshing contrast amidst the robust wood-fire flavors. The crispy-skinned breast meat is served with a green condiment, perfectly balancing the sweetness of the fat and the refreshing notes. The toast with chicken rillette playfully nudges yakitori towards a Western direction, making it easy to enjoy more drinks.In the latter half, the skewers featuring rare cuts from the thigh and the negima (chicken wing with green onion) are impressive. The chicken wing combines the savory crispness of the skin, the sweetness of the fat, and the aroma of green onion, creating a skewer that is anything but ordinary. The smoky flavor is skillfully applied without overwhelming the natural essence of the ingredients, leaving a positive impression. The "fragrance makeup" in yakitori is executed exceptionally well.The corn sorbet serves as a refreshing palate cleanser, resetting the rich chicken fat. It’s a thoughtful touch for a yakitori restaurant. The final dish, wood-fired soboro rice, lives up to its reputation with remarkable execution. The presentation, featuring a bowl with hints of charcoal, whets the appetite. First, enjoy it plain, then add the green condiment, and finally, top it with an egg yolk. The combination of smoky aroma, chicken umami, rice sweetness, and richness of the egg yolk creates a dangerously addictive dish that keeps your chopsticks moving even when full.Desserts are equally impressive. The candied red grapes and American cherries, despite their glossy appearance, offer a light aftertaste that cleanses the palate post-meal. The smoked caramel hides a subtle smokiness beneath its rich sweetness, skillfully maintaining the essence of "Maki Tori" until the very end.While the price is around JPY 30,000, considering the rarity, ambiance, ingredients, cooking techniques, and course composition, the satisfaction level is high. This is more than just yakitori; it’s a full-course chicken meal centered around wood fire. The reservation barrier is steep, but if the cancellation gods smile upon me again, I would love to return without hesitation.
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