Today, I had lunch here.Located just a short train ride from Sapporo Station, this Italian restaurant boasts one of the highest ratings in the country. Lunch starts at 12 PM, and with only counter seating available, all 8 seats were filled even on a weekday. The course comes with a drink pairing, and I chose the non-alcoholic option.◆ Degustazione Parco Fiera + Non-alcoholic pairing JPY 30,000 (tax included, service charge 10% extra)- Sweet shrimp tart from Haboro- 18-month aged prosciutto with fresh mozzarella- Pork trotter in galantine- Scallops and fresh sea urchin with Namidama bean sauce- Flatfish grand aioli- Assorted beef salami, uncooked salami, and ham- Fried gnocchi with mortadella- Strozzapreti with octopus ragu sauce- Roasted Ezo deer with haskap sauce- Milk ice cream with melon and mint sauce◆ Non-alcoholic drink pairing- Peach, apricot, lavender- Cassis, grape- Pear, mint- Rooibos tea, lemon, mint, kombu- Spiced ginger- Tomato, oregano, grapefruit- Various berries, mintDuration: 2 hours 30 minutesTotal bill: JPY 33,000 (tax and service charge included)------- Details -------First, I was served an amuse-bouche made with sweet shrimp from Haboro. The shrimp was marinated in salt and served with a salsa cruda made with wasabi, along with fermented cabbage. Garnished with dill and dill flowers, the crispy tart shell paired beautifully with the sweet, sticky shrimp, the refreshing spiciness of the salsa, and the acidity of the fermented cabbage.Next was the 18-month aged prosciutto paired with freshly made mozzarella cheese. The mozzarella, made from milk sourced from Okoppe Town and prepared just 5 hours prior, had an incredibly natural and milky flavor. The prosciutto was thinly sliced and silky, with a perfect balance of saltiness that melted in the mouth. The combination of cheese and prosciutto was outstanding.The third dish featured pork trotter in galantine. The galantine retained the texture of the trotter and was packed with flavor. It was seasoned with a mostarda sauce made from Sato Nishiki cherries, complemented by the flavors of Italian parsley and micro herbs from Yoichi.The fourth dish included scallops and fresh sea urchin with a sauce made from Namidama beans. Although typically sourced from the Basque region, the chef had arranged for two varieties to be cultivated by a farmer in Yoichi. The sauce featured the British variety Kelbdon, lightly sautéed, while the Spanish variety San Teragurima floated atop. The large scallops from Rishiri and fresh sea urchin from Wakkanai were drizzled with kombu and sesame oil. The texture was delightful, with sweetness and a fresh aroma that lingered in the nose—absolutely delicious. The scallops and sea urchin were undeniably tasty, and the kombu and sesame oil added a gentle fragrance and umami.The fifth dish was flatfish grand aioli, a dish from southern France. The flatfish from Hokkaido was wrapped in zucchini flowers, served alongside fresh zucchini. The sauce was made with blue chili peppers and fruit tomatoes from Shimokawa, infused with cardamom. Finished with kombu and sesame oil, and a sprinkle of pecorino cheese, the rich flatfish grand aioli skillfully highlighted the delicate flavor of the white fish.The sixth dish featured an assortment of salami and ham. This plate allowed for a tasting of both cooked and uncooked salami and ham, inviting a leisurely exploration of the nuances in saltiness, umami, texture, and aroma.Following that, I enjoyed freshly made, airy fried gnocchi topped with plenty of thinly sliced mortadella. This was truly delicious! The thinly sliced mortadella matched perfectly with the airy texture of the gnocchi.The seventh dish was strozzapreti with octopus ragu sauce. The homemade strozzapreti was made right in front of me, paired with a ragu sauce made from octopus broth that infused it with flavor. The chewy strozzapreti combined beautifully with the robust flavor of the octopus, enhanced by the tomatoes.The main course was roasted Ezo deer. The back meat of the Ezo deer was served with young corn from an organic farm. Two sauces accompanied the dish: salsa verde and a haskap sauce typical of Hokkaido.While I had high expectations for this dish after such wonderful courses, the Ezo deer was quite disappointing. The flavor of the deer meat was lacking, and it seemed to exhibit only the undesirable aspects of game. The texture was also somewhat inconsistent, and whether it was a cooking issue or individual variation, I couldn't tell. My dining companion shared the same sentiment, and we were both shocked.Finally, dessert was milk ice cream drizzled with melon sauce. The smooth, airy milk ice cream combined with the fruity melon and refreshing mint flavor was a delightful finish.I expected coffee and baked goods to follow, but that was the end of the meal.It was a great meal. However, the sudden drop in quality with the main course left a strong impression, which lowered my overall satisfaction. Considering the price of JPY 33,000 including non-alcoholic pairing and service charge in this somewhat remote area of Sapporo, it was still within a reasonable range given the rising costs.Nonetheless, I enjoyed my time chatting with Chef Daisuke Nakajo, who loves exploring food.*Rating at the time of visit: 4.43
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