Dinner at CHIUnE (CHIUnE)

Dinner at CHIUnE (CHIUnE)

at CHIUnE (CHIUnE) on 1 June 2026
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I visited thinking it would be French or French-inspired innovative cuisine, but while there are elements of French cuisine, the dishes presented a variety of flavors including Japanese, Italian, Chinese, and street food styles. Therefore, it’s hard to categorize it as French; it can only be described as innovative. While the diverse tastes are interesting, it can be challenging to create a cohesive story for the course. Additionally, the explanations for the dishes primarily focus on the ingredients, lacking any conceptual explanation for the course structure, leaving me puzzled about the reasoning behind it.The plating is done at the counter, using rings for round presentations and pouring sauces into the round dimples of the plates, resulting in a consistent circular presentation. However, the color palette is mostly beige and brown, which, while visually unified, lacks vibrancy and flair.That said, the clientele seems to be mostly regulars, so there may be no need for detailed explanations of the dishes or to invest time in elaborate plating. As soon as newcomers like us express confusion, regulars chime in with "Delicious!" and "Chef! Amazing!"—it feels like a restaurant that caters to its loyal fans.On the other hand, the wine selection is exclusively French, which aligns with the French or French-inspired theme, but given the variety of dishes, it raises the question of whether it needs to be so heavily focused on French wines. It seems there could be more adventurous options from Italy, Spain, Japan, and even Japanese sake, which adds to the disjointed feeling regarding the course structure. The drink menu and wine descriptions are also unhelpful, which seems to be a characteristic of this fan-favorite restaurant.**Genre:** Innovative **Chef:** Satoshi Furuta **Price:** JPY 59,400 (tax included, service charge separate) **Menu:** None **Atmosphere:** The counter seating is arranged in a straight line, giving off a vibe of modern high-end sushi restaurants, though it lacks a certain luxury. The depth of the counter distinguishes it from sushi bars, as plating is done using this spacious counter. However, the front of the counter faces a wall, and the kitchen is behind it, so you can’t enjoy watching the cooking process. The atmosphere is relaxed, filled with regulars and young staff, making it comfortable for first-time visitors.**Pace:** Upbeat. **Service:** Service is provided across the counter. Both kitchen and service staff are young, and the atmosphere is neither casual nor formal. **Usage Scene:** With counter seating, it’s suitable for 1 to 3 people, and dishes are served in quick succession, making it less ideal for conversations, business meetings, or dates. **Wine:** The drink menu lists many bottles, but due to the fast-paced service, it’s difficult to leisurely finish a bottle, so no one seems to order them. The glass options are listed as "Wine pairing from JPY 25,000, non-alcoholic pairing from JPY 15,000, champagne from JPY 8,000, and wine from JPY 3,000" (tax and service charge separate). The restaurant seems to recommend pairings, which consist of 10 servings of 50ml each, making it a decent deal. However, with the two-turn service, both food and wine come out quickly, so if you’re not confident in finishing 500ml at a fast pace, it’s better to stick with glasses. The high price of glass champagne is understandable since it’s Dom Pérignon, but whether the dishes pair well with it is another matter. The pricing for glass wine seems to reflect that a glass priced at JPY 3,000 corresponds to a bottle worth about JPY 5,000, and a glass at JPY 6,000 corresponds to a bottle worth around JPY 20,000. While the prices may be reasonable, the lack of menu details and explanations about what options are available is concerning. When I specified white, red, or rosé after hearing the next dish's explanation, I only received the pairing without any prior information about the wine itself, which is the same for those who choose pairings. On the other hand, the non-alcoholic options are limited to grape juice and tea, which is quite poor, and I noticed some guests opting for just tea instead of the expensive pairings. Reflecting on it, the dishes aren’t necessarily designed to pair exquisitely with wine, so sticking to tea might be a valid choice.(As there is no menu and only brief explanations, there may be some misunderstandings.) 1. Hairy crab (Hyogo), edamame, fruit tomato… The fruit tomato is good, but the crab is bland, dominated by the aroma and taste of the edamame. 2. Sweetfish (Takayama) potage… A warm soup with a bitter liver flavor. It’s a rare sweetfish dish, but I don’t understand the necessity of having only this one dish. A mini soup as a side for another sweetfish dish would have been better, but the quantity is large, leaving a lingering bitterness before the next dish. 3. Cuttlefish cappellini with caviar… Italian. There’s too little caviar, but the cuttlefish and pasta blend well, providing a good texture. Given its delicate flavor, it would have been better if it hadn’t followed dish 2. 4. Yupepirika risotto with Kuwana clams and kinome… Japanese. Despite being large clams, they are cooked to a tender finish. 5. Squid and blue crab… Chinese-style sauce. 6. Chorizo, mushroom, and eggplant sauce… Street food style. The mushrooms on top are cold, while the chorizo below is warm, creating a noticeable temperature difference and structural disarray. 7. Consommé with summer truffle… The truffle is submerged, burying its aroma and allowing the consommé to dominate. 8. Charcoal-grilled red snapper (Choshi)… The red snapper is bland and slightly dry. 9. Shiitake mushrooms, raw egg yolk, potato… Beautifully plated (this dish’s round presentation is the only positive), simply delicious, but I don’t think it was well-placed between dishes 8 and 10. 10. Joetsu beef Chateaubriand… I recall the poor Joetsu beef, but the Chateaubriand is delicious. There’s a sufficient amount of Chateaubriand, and the simple sauce doesn’t overpower its flavor. 11. Black pork (Amagi) charcoal-grilled… Street food style. Tender and delicious, but it was a nice finale thanks to the Chateaubriand. 12. Pea rice… Doesn’t serve as a proper finish after the Chateaubriand. 13. Shaoxing wine ice cream, white tea… If this is one of the four desserts, it’s acceptable, but with only a loose ice cream as dessert and no small sweets or coffee, it feels lacking.

5 / 10