I visited Tokuha Motonari, a highly popular and hard-to-book Japanese restaurant in Kyoto.Personally, I have a particular admiration for their grilled dishes cooked over an irori (traditional Japanese hearth). Although I've only experienced it twice, the grilled sweetfish I had during last year's season left a lasting impression on me.This time, I aimed for June, which is the season for young sweetfish, and as a sweetfish lover, I was very much looking forward to it.I arrived and took my seat just before the 12 PM start. Tokuha is known for its exceptional hospitality, which I believe is a key factor in its popularity.Especially the care shown by the proprietress is remarkable.Now, let’s enjoy the offerings at Tokuha!For drinks, I opted for the chef's selection.◯ Ugo no Tsuki, Suzukaze Junmai GinjoA smooth and slightly sweet cold sake with a hint of acidity, though it wasn't quite to my taste, it was a good start.☆ Corn SurinashiThe seasonal touch of the chawa ring, symbolizing the summer purification ritual, adds to the experience. This dish features corn surinashi served with Mie’s torigai (bird shellfish), fresh junsai from Hiroshima, dashi jelly, and the acidity of sudachi.The acidity from the junsai and sudachi tightens the flavor on the first bite, followed by the sweet and smooth corn surinashi. While there’s dashi jelly (made only from bonito) and torigai hidden at the bottom, I personally felt that the dish could do without them. The combination felt a bit cluttered.I think the corn surinashi and junsai alone would highlight the potential of the surinashi and make for a simpler, more enjoyable dish.☆ Steamed AbaloneA generous serving of grilled abalone served with squid ink rice and edamame, accented with sansho leaves.The thick abalone on the squid ink rice was impressive.However, the rice was a bit too dense for my taste as a course dish, and I didn’t feel a strong connection with the thick abalone, so I thought it might have been better to serve the abalone alone. Additionally, applying liver soy sauce to the abalone would have added more impact to the flavor. I was left wondering why they chose squid ink rice instead of liver for the abalone.☆ Kawatzu Ebi SoupA soup featuring kawatzu ebi (sweet shrimp) and yuzu shaped like a chawa ring.The broth had a noticeable acidity from the bonito and was seasoned with light soy sauce, giving it a distinct saltiness.The key ingredient, the shrimp paste, was fluffy and had a high aroma and sweetness, making a significant impact! The strong flavor of the soup is essential for a good soup dish.The refreshing taste of the green yuzu and the sweetness of the white asparagus were nice, but the sharp acidity of the broth left me with some questions.☆ Sashimi◯ Wakayama Aori Ika with Konowata and Snap PeasServed with sea salt, sudachi, and wasabi.The konowata had a gentle aroma and a sweet, sticky texture that was well-prepared, making it a favorite of mine.As someone who usually dislikes konowata, I was impressed by how the saltiness and umami blended beautifully, enhancing the flavor. The remaining konowata paired well with the crisp sweetness of the snap peas.◯ Shiro Amadai (White Sweetfish)With a sticky and chewy texture, it was sweet and paired well with salt wasabi.Among the common combinations of squid and konowata, the mild use of konowata, likely extended with dashi, left a strong impression on me.◯ Akashi Hamo (Pike Conger) GrilledServed with plum sauce, salt, and wasabi.The skin was nicely grilled, while the flesh was almost rare, creating a delightful texture with a gelatinous feel between the skin and flesh.The thickness was impressive, making it a memorable dish.It was perfectly fine with just salt and wasabi. While there was a mildly sweet and mild plum sauce, I thought a light touch would be best since the hamo was sweet.And unexpectedly, there was a second serving of hamo! Just grilling the skin for an additional 40 seconds made it crispy and fragrant, enhancing the airy texture that was delightful. There was no dryness, which I learned was due to the chef's skill in preparation.Once again, salt and wasabi were the best pairings.◯ Isojiman Junmai GinjoA clean and refreshing sake with a sweet rice flavor and a mineral finish, a stable choice.☆ Kamo Eggplant Dengaku with Ooma UniWhile this isn’t traditional eggplant dengaku, those familiar with this combination will recognize it.The best way to enjoy this is to take a big bite of each half!The juicy and rich eggplant melts in your mouth, and the mineral-rich uni blends like a sauce, with the sweetness of the white miso enhancing the overall flavor, creating a harmonious dish that is truly a drinkable dengaku.The chef mentioned that using mineral-rich uni, which has a slight bitterness, balances the flavors in the dengaku, and I agree.Using sweet and rich uni would likely overpower the dish.I could see the chef's dedication to balancing the ingredients, resulting in a luxurious dengaku dish.☆ Kuwana Clam Fry with Lemon and Young Corn Fry with Homemade SauceThe clam fry was fresh!The rich flavor of the clam, filled with liver, was perfect for frying. The acidity of the lemon acted as a seasoning.The young corn fry was also delicious, enhanced by the tonkatsu sauce.Personally, I felt that clam is better suited for tempura rather than frying.☆ Biwa Lake Young Sweetfish Salt Grilled with Tadezu, Cucumber, and FunazushiA delightful salt-grilled dish for sweetfish lovers!The small young sweetfish from Biwa Lake was carefully grilled, and the crispy skin and fluffy texture of the flesh made for a unique experience.The refreshing bitterness of the liver typical of young sweetfish was delightful, and it was delicious on its own.The slightly fermented funazushi added an impactful flavor with its unique aroma and umami (with the head included), but it became milder when pounded, resulting in a relatively gentle impression.This dish provided satisfaction with two different flavors.☆ Akashi Suzuki (Sea Bass) with Winter Melon, Thick Fried Tofu, Myoga, and Silver SauceA comforting simmered dish featuring thick fried sea bass, winter melon, and thick fried tofu, all brought together by the gentle silver sauce.However, the seasoning was a bit weak, making the flavors somewhat vague. I felt that if each ingredient had a bit more saltiness, it would enhance the overall flavor when paired with the silver sauce.It may be a minor detail, but since it’s a dish meant to be enjoyed with dashi, I wish it had a bit more seasoning.☆ Rice◯ Saga Niji no Kirameki White Rice◯ Red Miso Soup◯ Pickles (Bamboo Shoot, Cucumber & Water Eggplant)◯ Ishikawa Noto Large Sardine◯ Tanba Sangen Pork Rice BowlThe fluffy and sweet white rice paired well with the slightly salty bamboo shoot.The highlight was the grilled sardine!The exquisite grilling and freshness resulted in a fragrant and fluffy texture with delightful umami (and beautiful fat) that was irresistible!The aroma also told the story of its freshness.It seemed that the sardine had eaten squid, as there was a crunchy texture when I bit into it.I even ate the bones, but the sardine had a melt-in-your-mouth quality that was incredibly delicious.To finish, I had the chashu rice bowl.The shoulder roast, grilled for a long time over the irori, was perfectly balanced with a sweet and savory sauce, making it a delicious bowl with beautifully rendered fat.I was thoroughly satisfied with the meal.☆ Mizumanju (Water Dumpling)☆ Shiro Botan TeaThe texture of the kuzumochi was a bit too firm for my liking, making it feel heavy.In June, Tokuha was a wonderful experience.This was my third visit, and once again, I felt that the grilled dishes truly showcased the chef's skill, highlighting the potential of the ingredients through excellent cooking techniques.I could feel the chef's respect and dedication to the ingredients, which is truly commendable.While there were dishes that didn’t quite match my personal taste, I hold no negativity and instead hope for their continued refinement.Despite being a popular restaurant, the exceptional hospitality and comfort it provides are also essential in bringing relaxation to its guests.I look forward to supporting and visiting again in the future.Thank you for the wonderful meal!