On this day, the humidity was unusually high, and there was a light drizzle that made me hesitate to open my umbrella. I decided to walk for about ten minutes from the subway without it, and by the time I arrived at the restaurant, I was drenched in sweat. However, as I stepped through the noren (curtain), the scent of incense enveloped me, and strangely enough, I began to feel cooler.I greeted Mr. Higuchi and immediately ordered a beer. There's nothing quite like a cold beer during this season.Today's menu includes:◆ Hairy Crab and Zui-ki In the spirit of Tanabata, the dish was served in a cool glass bowl on a tray adorned with a leaf from the梶 tree. The crab vinegar and bonito broth were gelled and drizzled over the rich and delicate flavors of the hairy crab, complemented by the crunchy texture of the Zui-ki. A touch of crab miso added an extra layer of richness and creaminess.◆ Vegetable with Sesame Dressing Toasted sesame seeds were lightly mixed with vinegar, creating a fragrant dressing that retained the texture of the coarsely ground white sesame. This dish featured nine types of vegetables, including edamame, green beans, lotus root, kinshi-uri, fern, and dried daikon. Each vegetable's unique character shone through, yet the overall harmony was delightful.◆ Hamo Sushi The hamo sushi, served on fragrant seaweed, was first enjoyed without the seaweed. The carefully deboned hamo had a mild yet deep umami flavor and a sweet richness, enhanced by the charred skin. Then, I wrapped it in the seaweed, enjoying the sweetness of the vinegared rice, the refreshing aroma of the spicy sansho pepper, and the harmonious scent of the seaweed.◆ Soup Upon opening the lid of the exquisite black lacquer bowl, I was greeted by the intoxicating aroma of katsuobushi (dried bonito). The pure white flesh of the flatfish, winter melon, burdock, and finely sliced green onions contrasted beautifully against the dark bowl. Tasting the flatfish revealed an incredibly deep and sweet flavor.◆ Sashimi The sashimi included grilled hamo and ma-ko-garei (flatfish). The grilled hamo offered a delightful combination of the skin's crispiness and sweetness, along with the chewy texture and refined umami of the flesh. The slightly thicker slices of ma-ko-garei were impressive, with a translucent aroma and a flavor that expanded with each bite.◆ Spring Rolls with Kamo Nira and Surf Clam The crispy spring rolls released the ocean scent and crunchy texture of the surf clam. The cooked kamo nira (Japanese chives) became tender, enhancing its sweetness and aroma.◆ Grilled Sweetfish The sweetfish from the Azumigawa River was enjoyed whole, with the rising aroma of charcoal and the scent of water moss. The sweetness, umami, and bitterness of the sweetfish blended beautifully.◆ Simmered Abalone and Kato-uri The dish featured a ginger and kudzu starch sauce, harmonizing the faintly green aroma of the kato-uri with the robust ocean scent of the large black abalone.◆ Fried Kamo Nira The fried kamo nira was sprinkled with finely ground tai (sea bream) flour, bursting with juicy flavor and sweetness. The tai flour accentuated the contours of the kamo nira.◆ Grilled Wild Boar Although I usually don't prefer game, I was astonished by the beautiful fat and flavor of the wild boar loin I had that day. It was served with sansho pepper and a jam made from ripe Shine Muscat grapes, but I mostly enjoyed it with coarse salt to savor the natural flavors.◆ Sweetfish Rice This dish featured sweetfish from the Waragawa River. With the first bite, the fragrant aroma and refined umami of the sweetfish spread, followed by the sweetness of the rice.◆ Soba ◆ Seasonal Fruit (Domestic Grapefruit) This month, my friend visited Higuchi, and I had prepared by reading their review. There were so many exciting ingredients to look forward to, but nature dictates what is available. I was truly impressed by Mr. Higuchi's skill in crafting the menu using countless options based on the fresh ingredients of the day. His creativity, originality, and the skills that support them left me in awe once again.The sake, selected by his wife, included Kuro-ryu Shizuku (at the beginning and end), Ippokki, and Kaishun. Each one complemented the dishes beautifully, enhancing both the food and the drink, making for a delightful experience. The sake started off subtle, not overpowering the dishes, and gradually led me to deeper and more complex flavors, for which I am grateful.As mentioned at the beginning, I arrived drenched in sweat, but by the time I left, I had completely forgotten about it, having thoroughly enjoyed the exquisite dishes at Higuchi. I look forward to returning in October—will there still be matsutake mushrooms?