On the second night of my summer trip to Niigata, I chose Tokiwa Sushi's Niigata branch. I visited the main store in Shibata two years ago, which sparked my serious pursuit of local gastronomy (though my subsequent transfer to Sendai played a big role too), so I have a bit of a sentimental attachment to it. Since I hadn’t done much research beforehand, I wondered if this was a branch of the original, but upon visiting, I found out that the owner from Shibata was actually preparing sushi here. He even asked me early on, "Have you been here before?" It seems that he operates in Shibata on weekends and in Niigata on weekdays (I wonder when he takes a break...). 1. Grilled eggplant porridge, 2. Sado Hon-Ara sashimi, 3. Shredded hairy crab, sushi rice made with tomato extract, 4. Akai ika, 5. Nanban shrimp, 6. Tentacle hairy crab miso stew (served with sushi rice at the end), 7. Sado's Mahata, 8. Niigata's sweet sea bream with crispy scales and zucchini, 9. Kasugodai, 10. Sweetfish, 11. Black mutsu, 12. Nuta eel sushi roll, 13. Seaweed chawanmushi, 14. Hakkaisan sake lees and plum sorbet, 15. Bay shell, 16. Nodoguro, 17. Anago, asparagus, melon, and oboro sushi roll, 18. Shijimi soup, 19. Tamagoyaki, 20. (additional) Inari sushi. (Alcohol) 1. Champagne, Delamotte Brut, N.V. 2. Kamo Nishiki Hahata Sake Tanakan Watase 2025BY, 3. Takachiyo Junmai Daiginjo Uonuma Ippon Shime (limited to the prefecture, unpasteurized, Ichika Naru), 4. Kamo Nishiki TOKIWA EDITION.Since my last visit two years ago, there has been a sense of experimentation and a focus on unique offerings, and I feel that this has evolved into a more confident and free-spirited expression of Niigata's terroir through the course menu. The sushi itself is crafted with multiple techniques, making each piece of nigiri, roll, or dish with sushi rice something that can only be enjoyed here. The deliberate choice to avoid using tuna adds a unique touch that leaves a lasting impression of enjoying sushi that is distinctly Tokiwa Sushi. For example, the Nanban shrimp nigiri (5) showcases the essence of the shrimp, as the shells are roasted to create a powder, and the shrimp miso is incorporated, ensuring that every bite captures the full flavor of the shrimp. The Nuta eel sushi roll (12), made with sardine fish sauce, and the Nodoguro (16), which is grilled with the skin seared and the flesh boiled, are just a few examples of the innovative techniques that shine here. Additionally, the black mutsu (11), likely marinated in vinegar and seared, and the sweetfish (10) are both delicious without excessive embellishment, showcasing a wonderful balance in the nigiri.The appetizers served between the sushi go beyond typical sushi bar fare, with some even feeling innovative. For instance, the tentacle cooked in hairy crab miso (6) and the sweet sea bream skin fried and served with diced zucchini and grated cucumber (8) are not something you would typically find. However, there’s no impression of aimless experimentation; the solid foundation of the nigiri serves as a core, and the chef’s love for Niigata's ingredients is expressed in a refreshingly innocent manner. I enjoyed a generous amount of sake, and the price was quite reasonable, not reaching JPY 32,000. While it may not align perfectly with my personal preferences for sushi, the unique approach of this sushi restaurant, which can only be experienced here, is valuable in its own right. I believe this is also a reflection of how Niigata's terroir is portrayed.
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