A French restaurant specializing in seafood, "Chisou Nishi Kenichi" is located in Shizuoka's Yaizu, a port town known for its tranquil atmosphere. Utilizing fresh seafood from Suruga Bay, including offerings from "Sasue Maeda Fish Shop," this establishment proudly presents "Suruga Cuisine."Like many renowned restaurants in Yaizu, reservations can be quite difficult to secure, and I was finally able to book a table for this long-awaited visit.The restaurant is about a 10-minute drive from Yaizu Station, or a 30-minute walk, which may pose a slight challenge, but it is undoubtedly worth the trip.The building retains a traditional Japanese aesthetic, having previously been a tonkatsu restaurant. Inside, there are only eight counter seats, creating a compact yet serene space dominated by calming blue tones. The minimalist decor directs attention naturally to the food itself.The menu consists solely of an omakase course, featuring a lineup centered around seafood that allows diners to fully enjoy the bounty of Suruga Bay. While there may be occasional game meat included when available, the chef emphasizes a focus on fish, making it an irresistible choice for seafood lovers.Both alcoholic and non-alcoholic pairings are available for drinks, with the added bonus of half pairings for each option. A special pairing is also available for those who wish to indulge further, but I opted for the standard alcohol and half pairing this time.As the time arrived, Chef Nishi greeted us, and the course quietly commenced.■Omakase Course (JPY 22,000) - Chawanmushi (savory egg custard) - Fried Hiraji (Japanese horse mackerel) - Deep-fried Mameaji (young horse mackerel) - Aji (horse mackerel) - Charcoal-grilled Buri (yellowtail) - Nibe (blackthroat seaperch) Meunière - Grilled White Sweetfish with Scales - Baked Hanadai (red snapper) in Pastry - Risotto - Compote of Peach-scented Strawberries from Yaizu - Sorbet■Half Pairing Standard (JPY 8,800) - Champagne Dehours et Fils Grande Reserve Brut - Monferrato Bianco Sej 2023 Frasca - Etna Rosato 2024 Tenuta delle Terre Nere - 2022 Domaine de Villaine Rully Les Saint Jacques - 2024 Lionel Faury Saint Joseph Blanc Ribaudes - 2023 Fleurie Grille-Midi - 2021 Alsace Riesling Domaine Rolly GASSMANN - Paul Giraud 25 Year Extra Vieille●1. Chawanmushi A spring-like dish combining clam meat, its broth, and canola flowers. The natural bitterness of the canola is carefully subdued, allowing the refined and clear umami of the clam to shine. The large clams make a strong impression, leaving a quiet aftertaste as the course begins. The pairing is a Pinot Meunier-based Champagne, Dehours et Fils Grande Reserve Brut, with a firm acidity and crisp finish that complements the delicacy of the broth.●2. Fried Hiraji Lightly fried Hiraji served with homemade karasumi (dried mullet roe) and a sauce made from tomatoes from Kakegawa. The sweet tomatoes have a mild acidity, concentrating their sweetness and umami. Combined with the saltiness of the karasumi, this dish achieves a simple yet profound flavor. The pairing is a white from Northern Italy, Monferrato Bianco Sej 2023 Frasca, with citrus aromas and a transparent taste that harmonizes beautifully with the sweetness of the tomatoes.●3. Deep-fried Mameaji Seasonal Mameaji simply deep-fried. Despite their small size, they are packed with flavor, offering a light yet robust texture. They pair well with the previous tomato sauce, allowing for a delightful aftertaste.●4. Aji Next is Aji, featuring a composition of citrus vinegar, red onion, and pickled beets. This dish is particularly striking, with the thick flesh boasting an astonishing amount of fat and umami. The chef himself remarked, "This Aji is incredible!"—a testament to its exceptional quality that redefines previous impressions of Aji. The pairing is a rosé from Sicily, Etna Rosato 2024 Tenuta delle Terre Nere, made from local grapes. Its floral aroma and delicate acidity elevate the fish's umami.●5. Charcoal-grilled Buri Charcoal-grilled Buri with a crispy skin, served with a grain mustard sauce, wasabi oil, garlic powder, and spinach. Compared to those from the Sea of Japan, this Buri has a milder fat content, concentrating its flavor. The smoky aroma from the charcoal, combined with the mustard and wasabi accents, creates a multi-dimensional dish. The pairing is a Burgundy Chardonnay, Domaine de Villaine Rully Les Saint Jacques, where the oak nuances resonate beautifully with the Buri's smokiness.●6. Nibe Meunière Nibe prepared as Meunière, accompanied by a sauce of Kakegawa tomatoes and shrimp, along with Shizuoka white asparagus. The flesh is light and delicate, supported by the umami of the crustaceans and the acidity of the tomatoes. The accompanying bread features butter blended with seaweed, adding a subtle oceanic nuance. The pairing is a white from the Rhône, Saint Joseph Blanc Ribaudes 2024, rich and full-bodied, balancing the dish perfectly.●7. Grilled White Sweetfish with Scales The white sweetfish is grilled with its scales raised, served with a puree of Kita Akari potatoes and a sauce of red wine and hojicha (roasted green tea). The moist, fatty flesh contrasts pleasantly with the crispy scales. The sauce, infused with Japanese elements, and the sweetness of the potatoes gently envelop the dish. The pairing is a Gamay-based red, Fleurie Grille-Midi, where the fruitiness and gentle tannins complement the dish.●8. Baked Hanadai in Pastry This specialty dish features the moist and fatty Hanadai, enhanced by slowly sautéed onions that bring out its sweetness and the refreshing aroma of shiso leaves. A rich cream-based sauce envelops the dish, adding depth and unity to the flavors. All of this is encased in a beautifully baked pastry. When cut open, the steam and rich aroma of butter rise, releasing the fish's umami, the sweetness of the onions, and the freshness of the shiso in a delightful burst. This dish truly exemplifies the high level of craftsmanship worthy of being called a specialty. The pairing is an Alsace Riesling, Alsace Riesling 2021 Rolly GASSMANN, with a slightly sweet style that harmonizes beautifully with the creaminess.●9. Risotto Risotto featuring sautéed and then charcoal-grilled squid, combined with barley, brown rice, and seaweed from Hamana Lake. Topped with deep-fried kale and powdered umeboshi (pickled plum), it adds accents of aroma and flavor. The smoky aroma, grainy texture, and flavors of seaweed and ume create a deep dish with a Japanese nuance. The pairing is a Pinot Noir, with delicate fruitiness that gently accompanies the dish.●10. Compote of Peach-scented Strawberries from Yaizu Strawberries with a peach-like aroma, known as "Momo Kaoru," are made into a compote and served with a scoop of Japanese black tea sorbet. The vibrant aroma and gentle sweetness make for a light dessert, perfect for the end of the course. For the after-dinner drink, I chose Paul Giraud 25 Year Extra Vieille from several options. Its robust yet delicate flavor deepens the aftertaste.●11. Ice Finally, a milk ice cream paired with honey from Hiroshima. Simple yet highlighting the quality of the ingredients, it concludes the course with a gentle sweetness.In total, I enjoyed 11 dishes. As anticipated, the course was entirely composed of seafood, centered around my favorite Aji, delivering an exquisite taste. The chef's sincere approach to the blessings of Suruga Bay, combined with honed skills and sensibilities in each dish, has established a unique "Yaizu French" experience that cannot be found anywhere else.I look forward to visiting again.It was a great meal.
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