Kanjou: Duck, Soba, and BurgundyLocated in Roppongi, Tokyo, Kanjou is a popular Japanese restaurant that offers creative courses centered around duck dishes and handmade Ju-wari soba, incorporating seasonal ingredients.You can enjoy duck cooked on a teppan made from Tamahagane, known for its use in Japanese swords, along with Ju-wari soba made fresh every morning, all in an intimate space with only seven counter seats.This time, I made a reservation online before my visit. The restaurant is just a few minutes' walk from Roppongi Station on the Tokyo Metro and Toei Subway, situated on the second floor of a building that also houses a ramen shop on the first floor.As I approached the entrance, I found a simple handwritten sign that read "Kanjou," just as I had been informed. Its understated appearance made it hard to believe this was the entrance to a renowned restaurant.Upon opening the door, I was greeted by a serene atmosphere that was unexpected from the exterior, with a calm wooden counter space welcoming me.The original head chef, Mr. Toyoda, has since moved on, and the kitchen is now led by Chef Ogata, who comes from a French culinary background.Since the pairing options were highly recommended, I decided to go for the pairing.■Omakase (JPY 30,000) - Soba - Soba Crepe★ - Duck Broth Soup - Duck Yukke★ - Sweetfish - Charcoal-Grilled Kinmedai★ - Palate Cleanser - Duck Roast - Duck Heart★ - Duck Thigh★ - Duck Tenderloin - Simmered Eggplant - Duck Roast - Soba - Bite-sized Curry - Earl Grey Ice Cream■Pairing - Morotou Norde Chablis - Storm Freda Chardonnay 2024 - Nabeshima Summer Moon Junmai Ginjo - Armel et Jean-Michel Morin / Fixin - Gikyo Junmai Ginjo Genshu 60% Unfiltered 2025BY - Domaine David More / Meursault Premier Cru Charmes 2023 - Mod Gillon / Burgundy Pinot Noir 2023 - Durocher / Gevrey-Chambertin 2023 - Cocard Loison Fleurot / Vosne-Romanée 2021 - Okubansai Summer Rich Super Dry Blue Label - Pierre Girardin / Chassagne-Montrachet 2018●1. Soba The course begins with soba. This dish features Ju-wari soba made from buckwheat sourced from Yachiyo, Ibaraki, paired luxuriously with sea urchin. The soba showcases the unique aroma of 100% buckwheat, harmonizing beautifully with the rich flavor of the sea urchin and the delicately prepared broth, creating a refined yet memorable taste. The pairing is Morotou Norde / Chablis, characterized by fresh citrus fruit flavors and the beautiful acidity and minerality typical of Chablis.●2. Soba Crepe Next is a crepe made from buckwheat flour. Inside, it is filled with moist fried duck kara-age, where the savory aroma of the chewy buckwheat dough perfectly complements the concentrated umami of the duck. The pairing is Storm Freda / Chardonnay 2023, a South African Chardonnay with a gentler acidity and impressive fruitiness compared to the previous Chablis.●3. Duck Broth Soup A soup made by slowly simmering duck meat and bones. It is free of any off-flavors, with only the umami of the duck carefully extracted, resulting in a gentle taste that seeps into the body. The pairing is Nabeshima Summer Moon Junmai Ginjo, a seasonal sake with a floral aroma and fruity sweetness, yet a light finish.●4. Duck Yukke Yukke made with exceptionally fresh duck meat. The sweet soy sauce enhances the duck's natural umami, providing a melt-in-your-mouth texture and rich flavor. The pairing is Armel et Jean-Michel Morin / Fixin, featuring a pleasant acidity and nuances of red fruit, creating an elegant Burgundy flavor that pairs excellently with the yukke.●5. Sweetfish Natural sweetfish from the Mase River in Gifu Prefecture, fried to perfection. Accompanied by a sweetfish sauce and finely chopped cucumber, the crispy fried sweetfish and the slightly bitter flavor of its innards create a wonderful accent, evoking a sense of summer. The pairing is Gikyo Junmai Ginjo Genshu 60% Unfiltered 2025BY (Aichi), which is pleasantly dry yet full of umami.●6. Charcoal-Grilled Kinmedai A dish featuring Kinmedai from Katsuura, grilled over charcoal. By combining a broth based on clam umami with tomato and consomme, the seafood's flavor is enhanced with just the right acidity and richness, highlighting the refined fat of the Kinmedai. The pairing is Domaine David More / Meursault Premier Cru Charmes 2023, known for its rich fruitiness, beautiful minerality, and vibrant acidity.●7. Palate Cleanser Passion fruit and mango. The bursting acidity of the passion fruit combines with the rich sweetness of the mango, while the slight bitterness of the wood leaf adds a refreshing touch.●8. Duck Roast First, thick slices of duck roast. The duck served on a bed of onions is juicy, with meat juices flowing with each bite. Next, thinly sliced roast, which is leaner, allowing for a more direct enjoyment of the red meat's umami. Both cuts offer different expressions of the same part. The pairing is Mod Gillon / Burgundy Pinot Noir 2023, where the fruitiness and delicate acidity enhance the duck's flavor.●9. Duck Heart Duck heart cooked over charcoal. Its firm texture and rich umami were remarkable, showcasing the chef's skill in cooking. The pairing is Durocher / Gevrey-Chambertin 2023, characterized by spicy aromas and strong fruitiness, perfectly complementing the rich flavor of the heart.●10. Duck Thigh Charcoal-grilled duck thigh. Cooked to a perfect medium-rare, the skin is crispy while the inside remains moist and juicy, releasing the duck's umami with every bite.●11. Duck Tenderloin Duck tenderloin. Cooked to a perfect medium-rare, it is surprisingly tender and soft, yet maintains a pleasant firmness. The pairing is Cocard Loison Fleurot / Vosne-Romanée 2021, a delightful surprise to have Vosne-Romanée in the pairing. It features a vibrant fruitiness reminiscent of red berries, with an excellent balance of acidity and tannins.●12. Simmered Eggplant Soft and tender simmered eggplant. The fragrant fried aroma and the umami of the broth seep in gently, creating a simple yet irresistible flavor.●13. Duck Roast Once again, duck roast. This time, lightly smoked and accented with black pepper. The smoky aroma enhances the sweetness of the duck fat, while the black pepper tightens the overall flavor. For the second serving, I enjoyed it with mustard, which added a refreshing acidity, allowing for a different experience.●14. Soba The finale is soba once more, starting with warm kake soba. The gentle broth, with a restrained saltiness, enhances the natural flavor of the soba, providing a comforting taste. Next is flat yamakake soba. The chewy flat noodles are gently coated with tororo, creating a harmonious blend with the mellow broth, making it a fitting conclusion. The soba water is thick and creamy like a potage, allowing you to savor the aroma and umami of the soba until the very end when combined with the remaining broth. The pairing is Okubansai Summer Rich Super Dry Blue Label, which is sharp yet full of umami, perfectly complementing the soba. Following that, Pierre Girardin / Chassagne-Montrachet 2018, showcasing a rich fruitiness from aging, harmonized with beautiful minerality and acidity.●15. Bite-sized Curry●16. Earl Grey Ice Cream The final dessert is Earl Grey ice cream. The aroma of the tea is subtle, and the creamy texture allows you to feel the richness of the milk.Throughout the entire experience, I enjoyed a course that showcased duck in various cuts and cooking methods, centered around Ju-wari soba. Furthermore, the generous pairings of Burgundy wines and Japanese sake allowed me to fully appreciate the charms of soba, duck, and alcohol, resulting in a highly satisfying course.It was a great meal.
We use cookies on this site to enhance your user experience.
