Dinner at cenci (cenci)

Dinner at cenci (cenci)

at cenci (cenci) on 26 May 2026
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Located near Heian Shrine in Kyoto, Italian restaurant "cenci" stands in a quiet area of Higashiyama.This is not just an ordinary Italian restaurant; it incorporates Kyoto vegetables and seasonal ingredients, elevating them into unique dishes. Drawn to the Italian cuisine that highlights Japanese ingredients, I made a reservation for dinner.The result was extremely satisfying, and the diverse Italian dishes featuring spring ingredients left me wanting to return at a different time.Access is very convenient, just a short distance from Heian Shrine. The restaurant is situated in a narrow alley just off Marutamachi Street.Upon entering, there is a counter seating area, and downstairs, there are table seats in a semi-basement. The wooden interior creates a calm atmosphere, allowing for a relaxed dining experience.This time, I was seated at the counter. In front of me was the kitchen, where I could closely observe the cooking process and the lively atmosphere.The menu for the day was very spring-like, featuring a variety of ingredients such as bamboo shoots, squid, wild vegetables, and white asparagus. I was excited for the course that was about to begin.Before starting the course, Chef Sakamoto personally came to greet us.First, we began with drinks. They offer a wide selection, including glass wines, Japanese sake, and non-alcoholic options.After discussing, I opted for a half wine pairing.■Omakase Course (JPY 20,000) + Risotto (JPY 3,000) - Sweet summer orange, green asparagus, buckwheat, eel - Canola flower, persimmon - New onion, tomato, wild garlic, flower pepper, cherry salmon - Wild herbs, new potatoes, kaffir lime, rice bran, shrimp - Bamboo shoots, tara buds, rye, scallops, fragrant mushrooms - Jerusalem artichoke, Chinese cabbage flowers, wild vegetables, yuba - Radish, quinoa, pine nuts, morel mushrooms, lamb - Hassaku, blood orange, butterbur - Cilantro, white asparagus, firefly squid, tagliolini - Jurokushima nori, bamboo shoots, butterbur, risotto (+JPY 3,000) - Amazon cacao, soy milk, adzuki beans, Marsala wine - Tonka bean, strawberry, cassis, thyme, bergamot■Half Wine Pairing (JPY 8,000) - Champagne Benard-Pitois Brut Rosé Premier Cru - Weingut Werner Malt Riesling - GRAND ORDINAIRE Delaware 2024 - Domaine Duran Saint-Aubin Blanc Chardonnay 2023 - Chotiashvili Kisi 2015 Orange - Beau Paysage 2019 - Solo Levego 2022 - Chotiashvili Kisi 2015 - Domaine Duran Bourgogne Blanc La Combe 2023●1. Sweet summer orange, green asparagus, buckwheat, eel Eel from Kagoshima is grilled over charcoal, and the buckwheat is made into a flatbread style. The savory aroma of the eel and the gentle sweetness of the sauce blend with the fresh asparagus, while the buckwheat flavor ties everything together. The accompanying cold soup combines Setashijimi clams from Lake Biwa and asparagus. The deep umami of the clams is enhanced by the freshness of the asparagus, resulting in a vibrant aftertaste with a hint of citrus. The pairing is Laurent Bernard's Rosé Champagne. Despite being a rosé, it has a restrained sweetness and a crisp flavor.●2. Canola flower, persimmon The 24-month aged prosciutto is crafted by a Japanese chef trained in Italy. The dosa is paired with a canola flower paste, ricotta cheese, and cardamom, creating a Southeast Asian-inspired dish. The prosciutto has a concentrated umami with a mild saltiness. The spice of the dosa harmonizes with the richness of the ricotta and the slight bitterness of the canola flower.●3. New onion, tomato, wild garlic, flower pepper, cherry salmon Cherry salmon from Hokkaido is grilled rare over charcoal, served with a sauce made from new onions and a Chinese fermented seasoning called "Chunyan" (sake lees). Slices of tomato and wild garlic are layered on top. First, enjoy the cherry salmon on its own; the umami is concentrated. The Chunyan has a flavor reminiscent of sweet sake, enhancing the acidity and umami of the onions and tomatoes in the sauce. The pairing is Weingut Werner's Malt Riesling. It has a restrained sweetness, with prominent acidity and minerals that elevate the dish.●4. Wild herbs, new potatoes, kaffir lime, rice bran, shrimp A tart made with shrimp tartare and new potatoes, inspired by Malaysian cuisine. Topped with wild herbs from Ohara and accented with the refreshing aroma of kaffir lime. The pairing is "GRAND ORDINAIRE Delaware 2024" from a winery in Yamagata. Blending Delaware with Sauvignon Blanc, it has a structured flavor that enhances the sweetness of the shrimp while keeping the sweetness in check.●5. Bamboo shoots, tara buds, rye, scallops, fragrant mushrooms Using bamboo shoots from Kyoto, which can be used without soaking. The soup combines chicken and scallop broth with rye pasta and chopped bamboo shoots. Served with homemade XO sauce, scallop meat, and fragrant mushroom sauce. The concentrated flavors of chicken and scallops in the soup are complemented by the fragrant aroma of the mushrooms. The light crunch and natural sweetness of the bamboo shoots are impressive and delicious. Accompanied by scallop fish cake, tara buds, and fried bamboo shoots. The liver sauce and lemon balm add a nice accent. The pairing is Domaine Duran's Saint-Aubin Blanc (Chardonnay) 2023. A glass with a strong barrel nuance.●6. Jerusalem artichoke, Chinese cabbage flowers, wild vegetables, yuba Steamed Chinese cabbage flowers topped with snap peas, kogomi, and soy milk cream. Layered with Jerusalem artichoke chips and flavored with Okinawan pink pepper and sesame oil. The freshness of the green vegetables combines with the richness of the soy milk and the nuttiness of the Jerusalem artichoke. Despite being a vegan dish, it is satisfying and well-executed. The pairing is the Georgian orange wine "Chotiashvili Kisi 2015." A wine with gentle acidity and pleasant tannins, creating a complex flavor.●7. Radish, quinoa, pine nuts, morel mushrooms, lamb A dish featuring lamb mince stuffed inside morel mushrooms from Kanagawa Prefecture. Underneath are radishes, fava beans, and quinoa, paired with a sauce that has hints of pine and broth made from lamb bones. The aroma of morels evokes the earth and forest, while the robust umami of the lamb and the lightness of the vegetables are intricately assembled on the plate. Delicious. The pairing is Beau Paysage 2019, made with domestic Nebbiolo. It has a mild astringency and is easy to drink.●8. Hassaku, blood orange, butterbur A palate cleanser of hassaku sorbet and fruit. A few drops of butterbur oil are added for aroma. The citrus acidity refreshes the palate.●9. Cilantro, white asparagus, firefly squid, tagliolini Next is the pasta. Grilled white asparagus and firefly squid are combined with lime and cilantro, served with homemade tagliolini. The umami of the firefly squid, the aroma of the charcoal, and the flavor of the pasta come together for a layered taste. The roasted flavor and sweetness of the white asparagus are also impressive. Delicious. The pairing is the white wine "Levego 2022" from Tokaj, Hungary. A wine with an excellent balance of sweetness and acidity.●10. Jurokushima nori, bamboo shoots, butterbur, risotto (+JPY 3,000) A risotto made without cheese, using only butter and broth. Of course, I ordered this as an addition. It combines domestic Carolina rice with sweetfish fish sauce and miso, along with bamboo shoots. The pairing is Domaine Duran Bourgogne Blanc La Combe 2023.●11. Amazon cacao, soy milk, adzuki beans, Marsala wine A dessert of pudding, almond powder, fermented red bean paste, cacao tuile, and soy milk ice cream. The slight bitterness of the caramel ties everything together, while the gentle richness of the soy milk and the delicate sweetness of the red bean paste harmonize.●12. Tonka bean, strawberry, cassis, thyme, bergamot A tart crust filled with a sauce of bergamot and strawberries. Inside is whipped cream and light custard. Topped with thyme ice cream, meringue, and strawberries.In total, I enjoyed 12 dishes. The Italian cuisine featuring diverse spring ingredients does not overly emphasize any single ingredient, creating a high level of harmony overall. Particularly impressive were the cherry salmon, firefly squid, and morel mushrooms.The wine pairings were well-rounded, allowing for enjoyment of wines from various countries without bias. This restaurant takes an approach that transcends the boundaries of Japanese and Western cuisine, leading to discoveries and satisfaction with each course. I look forward to visiting again at a different time.It was a great meal.

9 / 10