Located in Akasaka, Tokyo, the Japanese restaurant "Jigen Do" focuses on the important element of "aroma," which greatly influences the taste of its dishes. By skillfully utilizing multiple heat sources such as firewood, charcoal, and straw, the restaurant offers Japanese cuisine that highlights seasonal ingredients throughout the year.As part of the renowned "Suetomi" group, known for its difficulty in securing reservations, Jigen Do enjoys high popularity similar to its sister restaurants. Currently, reservations are fully booked for the next three years, but I was fortunate enough to secure a spot six months in advance for this visit.The owner, Mr. Iizuka, is a talented chef who honed his skills at prestigious establishments such as "Suzutani" and "Kimoto" in Kagurazaka, as well as "Ao" in Nishiazabu. He pursues a unique style of Japanese cuisine centered around aroma, utilizing his solid techniques and rich sensibilities.The restaurant is about a 5-minute walk from Akasaka Mitsuke Station.Nestled quietly in a mixed-use building, the modest exterior features the name "Jigen Do" subtly illuminated. Without extravagant decorations, the restaurant's demeanor reflects a sincere approach to its cuisine.Inside, there are only eight counter seats in a compact space.The open kitchen in front of you is equipped with multiple heat sources, including firewood, charcoal, and straw, which are used according to the specific ingredients and dishes. The sounds of cooking, rising smoke, and the aromas of grilled ingredients create a sensory experience that allows diners to enjoy the live cooking process, a unique charm of this restaurant.A pleasant scent of burning wood and charcoal wafts through the air, naturally heightening anticipation even before the first dish is served.After a warm greeting from the owner, the course begins. I have marked my favorite dishes with a star.■Omakase Course (JPY 50,000) ・Black Abalone and Noodles★ ・Water Spinach★ ・Hata (Grouper)★ ・First Bonito ・Soup ・Flap Meat★ ・Vinegared Dish ・Soft-Shelled Turtle ・Soft-Shelled Turtle Soup★ ・Takikomi Gohan (Seasoned Rice)★ ・Firewood Udon★ ・Mizu Yokan (Water Jelly) ・Mango Ice Cream●1. Black Abalone and Noodles The course begins with a cold noodle dish featuring luxurious black abalone from Chiba Prefecture. It is paired with a rich abalone liver sauce and a clear jelly. The pleasantly chewy texture of the black abalone harmonizes beautifully with the rich flavor of the liver sauce and the refreshing jelly, making it a vibrant dish that showcases the fresh scent of the ocean and the umami of the abalone.●2. Water Spinach Next is a signature dish of Jigen Do. The water spinach, grilled with straw, releases a rich aroma from the very first bite. The hollow stems of the water spinach allow the smoky fragrance of the straw to infuse, creating a dish that balances a crisp texture with a delightful smokiness. True to its reputation, this dish exemplifies the essence of Jigen Do.●3. Hata This dish features Hata from Hyogo Prefecture, paired with cold-smoked caviar and sea urchin. The firm texture and refined sweetness of the Hata are complemented by the concentrated umami of the caviar and the smokiness from the cold smoking. The rich ocean flavor of the sea urchin adds depth, creating a layered taste experience.●4. First Bonito The first bonito is lightly seared on the skin and served with a yolk soy sauce. The refreshing umami of the first bonito pairs beautifully with the mellow richness of the yolk soy sauce, allowing the quality of the ingredient to shine through in this simple yet delightful dish.●5. Soup This soup combines hamo (pike eel) from Amakusa with junsai (water shield). The elegant broth, enhanced with kombu dashi and yuzu aroma, gently spreads across the palate upon tasting. The delicate umami of the fluffy hamo, the refreshing texture of the junsai, and the bright fragrance of yuzu create a bowl that evokes the essence of summer.●6. Flap Meat This dish features the rare flap meat, grilled while infused with the aroma of whiskey barrel chips. The moist and tender meat is layered with the sweet and rich aroma from the whiskey. While the fat offers a hint of sweetness, it is not heavy, and the smoky flavor from the firewood enhances the meat's umami.●7. Vinegared Dish For a palate cleanser, we have a vinegared dish with hairy crab and mozuku seaweed. The sweetness of the hairy crab and the refreshing acidity of the mozuku create a perfect balance, pleasantly resetting the palate after the preceding dishes.●8. Soft-Shelled Turtle This dish features soft-shelled turtle from Nagasaki, slowly grilled over firewood. The sweet and savory seasoning enhances the smoky flavor from the firewood. The firm texture and rich umami leave a lasting impression, allowing for a robust taste unique to soft-shelled turtle.●9. Soft-Shelled Turtle Soup This soup combines lightly charred Kamo eggplant with broth from shellfish and soft-shelled turtle. The melt-in-your-mouth Kamo eggplant absorbs the broth, creating a harmonious blend of the umami from the shellfish and the deep richness of the soft-shelled turtle. Despite its gentle flavor, this dish has a remarkably rich umami profile.●10. Takikomi Gohan The final rice dish features takikomi gohan with fire-roasted Manganji peppers. The rice is cooked to a moist perfection, with a subtle smokiness from the firewood that enhances the aroma with each bite. Diners can freely choose their accompaniments, with refills available. This time, I enjoyed Shirasu (whitebait) from Shizuoka, simmered rib roast, and mentaiko (spicy cod roe). While all the dishes were of high quality and delicious, the standout was the rice itself, which was best enjoyed simply on its own to appreciate its natural flavor.●11. Firewood Udon To conclude, we have firewood udon. This dish features both the egg yolk and udon infused with the aroma of firewood, a signature of Jigen Do. The chewy udon pairs beautifully with the creaminess of the egg yolk, while the gentle smokiness from the firewood lingers pleasantly. Simple yet memorable, it was a fitting finale.●12. Mizu Yokan For dessert, we have water yokan made with Hokkaido adzuki beans and wasanbon sugar. The refined and gentle sweetness of wasanbon enhances the natural flavor of the adzuki beans. With a smooth texture, it was a perfect dish to enjoy after the meal.●13. Mango Ice Cream Finally, we have ice cream made with mangoes from Miyazaki Prefecture. The rich sweetness and refreshing acidity of the mango fill the mouth, leaving a fittingly delightful aftertaste to conclude the course.Overall, this course was impressive in its structure, skillfully incorporating techniques such as firewood, straw, and smoking while delicately drawing out the inherent flavors of the ingredients. The aromas enhanced rather than overshadowed the dishes, allowing for a high level of satisfaction as each plate offered a unique expression.It was a great meal.
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