Dinner at Ryoriya Soubiki

Dinner at Ryoriya Soubiki

at Ryoriya Soubiki on 1 August 2026
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I visited Ryoriya Sobiki in Saijo, Hiroshima, after receiving a recommendation from a fellow foodie I met at a restaurant.Although it’s a bit far from Hiroshima city, I can say without a doubt that it was worth the trip. Each dish may not be flashy, but with every bite, I found myself gradually enchanted, thinking, "Wow, this is delicious."One standout was the main dish of the day: the outer thigh of the Inaba Manyo beef from Tottori, produced by Mr. Taniguchi. It is slow-cooked for about 50 minutes away from the charcoal, resulting in a gentle warmth rather than a scorching heat. The fat is surprisingly light, while the richness of the lean meat is incredibly intense. The phrase "gentle yet powerful" perfectly describes it. This was a first-time experience for me.Another highlight was the exquisite soba topped with two-year-aged karasumi (dried mullet roe).From start to finish, the meal was refined and serene. Even after finishing, I found myself reminiscing about the wonderful flavors.◆ Squid, Sweet Shrimp, Nameko Mushrooms, and Purple YamThe transparent bowl filled with ice looks quite refreshing. However, the dish itself isn’t too cold, allowing the sweetness of the squid and sweet shrimp to shine through. The sweet plum paste and the sliminess of the nameko mushrooms pair beautifully, making this one of my favorite dishes from the start.◆ Abalone SoupThe abalone is cooked slowly, resulting in a tender yet firm texture. Most importantly, the dashi (broth) is delicious. Made with Saijo water, it appears clear and delicate, yet has a substantial depth when tasted. The citrus aroma was also pleasant.◆ Karasumi SobaA specialty of Sobiki, this dish uses homemade karasumi prepared in 2024. It is salted, soaked in sake for several days, and then dried for 3-4 weeks. The texture is lighter than I expected, and the umami from the sweetfish soy sauce adds to its richness.◆ Sashimi of Horse Mackerel and ScadUsing fish from Yoshifumi, the horse mackerel is served with ginger soy sauce. This soy sauce is aged for a week with bonito and kombu in sake, resulting in a mellow flavor. The scad is served with a vinegar sauce, offering a firm texture that releases umami as you chew.◆ Grilled EelThe skin is perfectly charred while the flesh is fluffy. The fat is not overwhelming, and the sauce is quite light, allowing the flavor of the eel to shine through. While the sansho pepper was nice, I personally preferred it with wasabi.◆ White Sesame Tofu with Shine Muscat GrapesServed after the eel, this dish was a perfect palate cleanser. The juicy sweetness of the Shine Muscat grapes combined with the gentle richness of the sesame tofu, and the addition of nuts provided a delightful crunch and aroma.◆ Fried White Sweetfish and Long EggplantThe white sweetfish from Ehime is grilled before being fried, resulting in a fragrant exterior while remaining fluffy inside. The long eggplant from Hiroshima absorbs the dashi beautifully, becoming tender. The aroma of shichimi (seven spice) was delightful, making it enjoyable to alternate between the fish and eggplant.◆ Inaba Manyo Beef from Tottori, Outer ThighThis was my favorite dish of the day. The Manyo beef from producer Mr. Taniguchi is exceptional. It is grilled slowly for about 50 minutes, intentionally avoiding excessive charcoal flavor. The fat is light, while the richness of the lean meat is profound. Gentle yet powerful. It was truly delicious.◆ Rice with Early Autumn Pacific SauryRice cooked with the first dashi and lightly salted early autumn saury. The rice is made from carefully selected large grains of "Ryuu no Hitomi." I was amazed by the size of the grains, but even more so by the wonderful umami of the dashi. A must for a second helping.◆ Warabi MochiFinally, we enjoyed warabi mochi made with 100% real bracken starch and wasanbon sugar. It’s not overly sweet, and both the texture and flavor are very refined. Even until the very end, I felt a sense of tranquility. It was a beautiful conclusion that didn’t disrupt the lingering aftertaste of the course.

9 / 10