I had always wanted to visit the renowned L'évo in Toyama. Although it might not need much introduction since it has been featured in various media, the journey to the restaurant itself already feels special. The building, the air, and the presence of the mountains create a sense of excitement and anticipation before even arriving.Upon arrival, I was greeted by two playful baby goats.Entering the restaurant, I was immediately overwhelmed by the view from the waiting bar. The other guests seemed to be professional critics or media representatives, and I felt a bit out of place as a complete amateur with my family. However, I was determined to enjoy the experience.We started with a welcome drink made from maple sap, followed by an original Kuro Moji beer. At this point, I felt like I was truly immersed in the "mountains of Toyama."For more on Kuro Moji, please refer to the end.The meal began with a prologue featuring green ingredients, croquettes, sweet sea bream, pink chicken liver, white shrimp, and Kurobe goat cheese. The colors and aromas of the land unfolded one after another, but I struggled to keep up with the descriptions. The fried Koshinobura was pure spring. It had a slight bitterness from the wild vegetables, but that only added to the experience.As we enjoyed the meal, we had a dish of Ohkoshichu shellfish, bracken, and pea soup. The sea and mountains connected beautifully in this dish. I had never seen such large shellfish before, and they were delicious.One of the most memorable dishes was the aged bear meat grilled over wood. Since L'évo is known for its game, this was a highlight! Paired with kogomi and consomme jelly, it elevated the wild flavors beautifully. It was incredibly delicious, and the view from the restaurant made it feel like a bear could appear at any moment.The second type of bread was potato bread, which had a subtle potato flavor.Next, we switched to Masu-sen "Doyuno" sake. While wine is great, I decided to try L'évo's original Japanese wine, which is made from the same rice used for the L'évo chicken served later.We then had water octopus, and the next dish was shocking: fried firefly squid served alive. It was accompanied by white asparagus, bergamot, and a dipping soup. I started by eating them plain, then with the sauce, and finally dipped, repeating the cycle with several firefly squids. They paired wonderfully with sake and were incredibly tasty. The strength of life and the fragrance of spring coexisted beautifully.The most impressive dish of the day was the al dente Daemon somen. The soup, based on fuki no to, was incredibly delicious, with a rich dashi flavor. I could have asked for a second serving. The vibrant colors made it a memorable dish.Next was a dish featuring 90-day-old L'évo chicken wings. Although it looked a bit intense, the wings had some rice inside, making them juicy and very tasty.The sauce with Spanish mackerel and fruit tomatoes was delightful. Spanish mackerel is truly delicious, and its flavor changes depending on the restaurant and sauce, making it a very versatile ingredient. I hope to catch some Spanish mackerel while fishing next time.The third type of bread was homemade natural yeast baguette, and the final meat dish was wild boar. I was sad to see it come to an end. The dish featured game sauce, shaku, kintoki greens, seri, nazuna, katakuri, and nobiru, giving a sense of eating the "land" itself, including wild mountain herbs.And the dessert was equally impressive. It included strawberry éclat, strawberry chips, and ice cream infused with the aroma of Kuro Moji's new buds and flowers. The essence of the forest lingered until the very end.We finished with apple pie, perilla financier, mulberry leaves, and Kaga hojicha.What remained after the meal was not just the deliciousness but a profound sense of satisfaction. The view was stunning, with the snowfields of the Northern Alps in the background. The open kitchen's ambiance and the staff's movements and sounds created a breathtaking experience.This course allowed me to experience the mountains, rivers, seas, and life of Toyama all at once. "Someday, I want to go to L'évo"—there's a solid reason behind that phrase.I will work hard every day so that I can return.
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