Dinner at MASHIRO (真白)

Dinner at MASHIRO (真白)

at MASHIRO (真白) on 16 June 2026
Photo Views
0
Meal Views
39

MASHIRO, nestled in the tranquil surroundings of Kyoto, is a renowned establishment that showcases innovative French cuisine with a modern and creative approach, all while rooted in classic techniques. This time, I had the pleasure of enjoying a wonderful course that captures the essence of summer, paired with exquisite selections from the sommelier.The live atmosphere of the counter seats, the beautifully presented dishes that stimulate the senses, and the playful touches scattered throughout made for a truly special experience that kept my heart racing.■ Yosano Rice, "Season"The course begins with an elegant dish that reflects the summer scenery. We start with a toast using Sapporo Lager Aka boshi, followed by a pairing of Champagne served with the course.The amuse-bouche features a delightful and innovative presentation, with droplets resembling morning dew falling from a large lotus leaf. The Yosano rice risotto is accompanied by fluffy anago (conger eel), shirasu (whitebait), smooth junsai (water shield), and snap peas, all adorned with delicate purple petals.This is paired with the aforementioned Champagne, "Le Blanc Servenay 2013," crafted from the Grand Cru region of Avize. The rich and dry acidity of the Champagne, aged for over ten years, harmonizes beautifully with the umami of the anago and the refreshing texture of the junsai.■ Kinmedai (Golden Eye Snapper)The second dish on the menu, Kinmedai, takes your breath away with its stunning presentation. Inspired by a festival, it resembles a painting, adorned with vibrant flowers, sea grapes, and nasturtium leaves.The Kinmedai, lightly infused with a fragrant aroma of straw, is finished with a clear tomato soup made from carefully strained tomatoes. The acidity and umami of the clear soup elevate the sweetness of the Kinmedai to perfection.Paired with this dish is a natural white wine from Alsace, "Brand & Fils Tu Terrible Man 2021." This orange wine, with its floral aroma and unique depth, beautifully complements the straw notes and tomato essence, creating a layered and impressive marriage of flavors.■ Tachiuo (Spanish Mackerel)The third dish features lightly fried tachiuo fritters. The vibrant green sauce, made from grated okra, is accented with a hint of Western wasabi. The aroma of yuzu zest sprinkled on top tickles the nose pleasantly. The balance of the fritter's crispiness, the creaminess of the okra, and the sharpness of the wasabi and yuzu is remarkable.This dish is paired with a white wine from a notable producer in the Loire, "Thomas Puyeshavi Chenin Demi-Sec 2020." The gentle sweetness characteristic of demi-sec unfolds on the first sip, while a crisp bitterness and robust minerality follow, perfectly aligning with the umami and sweetness of the tachiuo and the freshness of the green sauce.■ CornThe fourth dish showcases the charm of summer corn through two luxurious interpretations. The accompanying drink is a special cocktail made by mixing the ultra-sweet sherry "Valdes Pino Pedro Ximenez El Candado" with the Sapporo Aka boshi we had for our toast.【First Plate: Young Corn Wrapped in Kadaif】Young corn elegantly wrapped in Turkish thin noodles called "kadaif" and baked to perfection. The crispy texture of the kadaif gives way to the juicy sweetness of the young corn. Underneath lies a rich sauce made from corn and Australian black truffle paste. The cocktail's bittersweet richness beautifully complements the earthy aroma of the truffle and the flavor of the corn.【Second Plate: Cold Soup of Maicorn from Kyo Miyama】In contrast, we have a cold soup made from white corn, "Maicorn," carefully juiced. The essence is astonishingly pure and incredibly sweet. Hidden within the soup are shaved corn kernels, providing a delightful pop of texture. Lightly accompanying this is coffee cream, which, when combined with the overwhelming sweetness of the corn, adds a complex depth to the flavor.The toasted barley aroma of the cocktail and the sweetness of the sherry perfectly align with this surprising combination of "corn and coffee," showcasing the pairing genius that MASHIRO is known for.■ GreenThe fifth dish, aptly named "Green," features a plate unified in beautiful green tones that stimulate the senses. Various green ingredients (beautifully curled cucumber, juicy green tomatoes, and herbs) are artfully arranged, with vibrant green sauce and powder dancing across the plate like a painting. The initial summer aromas of each ingredient and the layers of texture that change with each bite are simply delightful.Paired with this green masterpiece is a botanical shochu highball, "CHILL GREEN." The refreshing citrus aroma of lemongrass from the Maregao and pleasant spice perfectly synchronizes with the fresh green flavors on the plate. The crisp, refreshing bubbles fill the mouth with a delightful sensation, making for a wonderful pairing.■ Homemade BreadBefore the next dish featuring managatsuo, freshly baked mini loaves of homemade bread are served. The bread, presented on a black slate plate, is adorably small yet has a crispy, fragrant exterior and a fluffy, chewy interior. The rustic and robust flavor of the wheat gently spreads across the palate.■ Managatsuo (Black Skipjack)The sixth dish features managatsuo, perfectly cooked to achieve a moist interior and a crispy, fragrant skin. Underneath is a summer vegetable and balsamic rosé sauce made with Manji peppers, red peppers, and capers. Topped with vibrant homemade basil oil, this dish beautifully merges classic technique with modern sensibility. The light acidity of the summer vegetables and the refreshing flavor of the basil elevate the quality fat and umami of the managatsuo to new heights.Paired with this is a white wine from the south of France, "Château Coujan Cuvée Bois Joli." The herbaceous aroma and rich fruitiness seamlessly blend with the flavors of the basil oil and summer vegetables. The full-bodied yet crisp acidity beautifully envelops the lingering taste of the managatsuo, creating a wonderful marriage.■ Wagyu BeefThe main meat dish features beautifully cooked black wagyu (Saga beef), presented in a stunning rose pink. Upon the arrival of the plate, a playful touch catches the eye—a black "cow" shape made of cheese stands beside the meat, adding a whimsical element.With each bite, the exquisite umami of the high-quality lean meat and the sweetness of the juicy fat fill the mouth. The accompanying sauce is rich and deep, with crispy, fragrant burdock fritters adding texture and earthy aroma. Sprinkling a special spice mix with peanut notes creates an exotic depth of flavor.This powerful dish is paired with a distinguished red wine from Umbria, Italy, "Moretti Omero Montefalco Sagrantino 2017." The rich tannins and concentrated black fruit of the Sagrantino grape perfectly support the robust umami of the Saga beef and the rich sauce. The mellow bitterness from aging and the nuances of spice harmonize perfectly with the flavors of the burdock and the roasted peanut spice, providing a fittingly impressive conclusion to the main course.■ Tea and ElderflowerAfter enjoying the black wagyu, a refreshing dish resembling glass is served as a palate cleanser (avant-dessert) before dessert.The base is a granita with a delightful texture, infused with the pleasant aromas of Earl Grey and elderflower. Topped with refreshing lemon jelly and adorned with delicate white elderflower blossoms, it is a visual treat.As you scoop it up with a spoon, the floral richness of the Earl Grey and the sweet, refreshing aroma of elderflower spread across the palate, while the pleasant acidity of the lemon resets the lingering flavors of the meat dish. The sweetness is very subtle, allowing the pure aromas and refreshing qualities of the herbs and tea to shine, making it a sophisticated approach fitting for the end of the course.■ Matcha and MangoThe grand dessert that beautifully concludes the course resembles an art piece on a canvas, featuring "Matcha and Mango."A plate adorned with vibrant yellow passion fruit and mango sauce forms a circular design! The matcha mousse, enveloped in rich mango sauce, is accompanied by mango pudding and beautifully rolled fresh mango resembling a rose bud. Beside it, a delicate tuile shaped like a butterfly rests atop a crispy crumble with coconut ice cream, showcasing the chef's playful spirit and aesthetic sensibility.As you take a bite, the deep bitterness and rich aroma of the matcha harmonize beautifully with the tropical sweetness of the mango. This innovative combination of Japanese elements and tropical fruits achieves a perfect balance, enhancing each other's individuality. The cold creaminess of the ice cream, along with the crunch of the crumble and tuile, creates a blissful dessert experience that never becomes tiresome.■ Herbs and Petit FoursThe course concludes with freshly brewed herbal tea poured with care right in front of you, accompanied by three delightful petit fours (mignardises).The herbal tea, beautifully swirling in a glass pot, is made with real fresh herbs rather than dried leaves. It includes spearmint, apple mint, pine mint, lemongrass, and lemon balm. The moment hot water is poured, the refreshing and vibrant aromas of mint and lemongrass fill the air, providing a delightful sensation throughout the body.The accompanying petit fours are all of high quality. The tonka bean macaron, delicately decorated in a soft pink hue, and the bergamot and berry mousse, with its refreshing acidity and smooth melt-in-the-mouth texture, leave a lasting impression. Additionally, the mini financier, perfectly baked to a delightful crispness, bursts with the rich flavor of butter, creating a wonderful contrast with the refreshing herbal tea. Every last bite, down to the final drop of tea, reflects the chef's meticulous hospitality, resulting in a superb composition.With a story woven into each dish of undeniable quality and perfectly complementary pairings, MASHIRO is undoubtedly a memorable destination for innovative French cuisine in Kyoto. Thank you for a wonderful time. I look forward to visiting again in a different season.

9 / 10