Tucked away in a back alley of Shirokanedai, just off Platinum Street, is the Italian restaurant "Sanwa." Opened in 2023, the name is inherited from the weaving and dyeing company run by Chef Daisuke Watanabe's grandfather and his two brothers in Yamanashi, his hometown. Chef Watanabe honed his French culinary skills at "Chez Inno" and served as head chef at the popular Nakameguro restaurant "RODEO." At "Sanwa," he expresses the harmony among producers, restaurants, and customers through his dishes, transforming human connections into delightful flavors.Throughout the course, I felt a clear structure that emphasizes the main ingredients rather than competing with complexity by adding more components. Each dish has a distinct outline, ensuring that diners remain focused. The use of Japanese ingredients like wasabi, sansho pepper, and red shiso leaves is also impressive. True to its name, "Sanwa" incorporates elements of Japanese cuisine, subtly blending the essence of Japan with Italian flavors, giving the dishes a unique character.We started with "Mozzarella Cheese Mousse with Miyazaki Mango." The soft creaminess of the mozzarella is complemented by the rich sweetness of the Miyazaki mango. The fresh aroma of basil oil enhances the dish, while a pinch of salt sharpens the contours. It doesn’t overwhelm with sweetness, leaving a refreshing aftertaste with each bite, evoking a summer landscape. Next was the "Prosciutto and Gnocco Fritto," a staple of the restaurant. The ultra-thinly sliced prosciutto pairs perfectly with the hot gnocco fritto, creating a blissful combination of saltiness, sweetness from the fat, and the toasty aroma of wheat. Following that, "Mortadella" and "Salami" added to the charcuterie, inviting wine with their saltiness and umami.The "Chiba Freshly Harvested Corn Soup" is a bowl made solely with water. By not adding anything unnecessary, the sweetness and aroma of the corn shine through. The smooth texture allows you to feel the vitality of the ingredient itself. One of the highlights of the day was the "Chilled Pasta with Hairy Crab and Sea Urchin." The delicate sweetness of the hairy crab and the rich umami of the sea urchin are complemented by the refreshing aroma of basil. Here, the wasabi plays a crucial role, providing a refreshing sensation that sharpens the sweetness of the crab and sea urchin, elevating the flavor profile. This is truly the essence of "wa" (harmony) in the dish.The "Fried Spanish Mackerel" is served with a white wine-based sauce combined with sansho and herbs. The batter is light and crispy, while the fish is tender and juicy. With each bite, the umami of the mackerel expands, and the lingering flavor of sansho is pleasantly memorable. The "Green Asparagus and Parmesan Cheese Risotto" features asparagus as the overwhelming star. The green aroma, sweetness, and slight bitterness permeate each grain of rice, enhanced by the depth of flavor from the Parmesan cheese. The exquisite cooking technique leaves the rice perfectly al dente, allowing you to enjoy the presence of asparagus until the last bite.After refreshing with the "Red Shiso Granita," we finally entered the world of charcoal grilling.For the main course, I chose the "Iwate Ishiguro's Hōhō Chicken," and it completely captivated me. The skin is perfectly crispy and fragrant, while the inside is surprisingly moist. With each bite, the umami bursts forth, and the fat is light and elegant. It’s a flavor that combines rustic charm with refinement. This is where Chef Watanabe, known as a master of meat grilling, truly shines. The accompanying "Seasonal Grilled Vegetables" are equally impressive, featuring the concentrated umami of shiitake mushrooms, the sweetness of bell peppers, the juiciness of turnips, and the aroma of okra. Each ingredient stands out as if it were the star of the dish.The pasta I ordered additionally was also exceptional.The "Hasegawa's Mushroom Spaghetti" is covered with an abundance of mushrooms. The umami from cooking and the fresh aroma combine, making it feel as if you are eating the essence of the forest. For mushroom lovers, this dish is irresistible.The "Squid Extravaganza" lives up to its name, featuring squid in various forms. The pasta is coated in squid ink, layered with the umami of squid. With each bite, the ocean aroma expands, rich depth, and a toasty accent emerge. Yet, it maintains a remarkable balance that prevents it from feeling heavy.The "Fresh Tomato Pici" showcases contrasting charms. The chewy handmade pici is intertwined with the fresh tomato's juicy acidity and sweetness. Its simplicity leaves no room for deception, and this purity directly translates to deliciousness.For dessert, we had "Milk Ice Cream." The rich creaminess and light melt-in-your-mouth texture are delightful, gently enveloping the lingering flavors of the course.The charm of "Sanwa" lies in its ability to embody the "wa" (harmony) embedded in its name through its cuisine. The harmony among producers, chefs, and customers, along with the Japanese elements of wasabi, sansho, and red shiso that overlap with Italian cuisine, and the harmonious flavors that arise from the ingredients working together. The mastery of meat grilling, the perfection of pasta, and the structural clarity that places the ingredients at the forefront—all of these elements flow together seamlessly. I was completely captivated in the basement of Shirokanedai. It was a great meal.
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