I visited "CHIUnE" in Kioicho after a long time. No matter how many times I eat here, I am always amazed by the dishes. It’s not about adding more, but about stripping down to reveal the true flavors of the ingredients. Chef Satoshi Furuta has once again showcased this beautifully.The "Hairy Crab" dish features crab from Hamasaka paired with fruit tomatoes and edamame. The rich sweetness of the crab is elegantly lifted by the acidity of the tomatoes and the fresh aroma of the edamame. Instead of layering flavors, the dish highlights the distinct characteristics of each ingredient, filling your mouth with the essence of summer. The "Sweetfish" is served in a soup style, featuring sweetfish from the Waragawa River. The characteristic aroma and slight bitterness from the innards combine with a strong umami flavor, making the essence of the sweetfish stand out more with each sip. It’s a dish that captures the individuality of the ingredients in liquid form.The classic "Bifun" is paired with torigai (bird shellfish). The exquisitely thinly sliced torigai beautifully complements the texture of the bifun while still maintaining a robust bite. This textural presence is a testament to the quality of the ingredients. The "Shirobai Shell" is served as a risotto made with Yumepirika rice. The sweetness of the rice and the umami of the shellfish enhance each other, with the fluffy rice absorbing the broth.The "Kamo Eggplant" is remarkable, with the sweetness of the flesh enclosed within its charred black skin. It is simply paired with clear consomme and salt. This simplicity vividly reflects the strength of the eggplant as an ingredient. The "Chorizo" is a dish that concentrates the flavors of Amagi black pork. The balance between the sweetness of the fat and the spiciness of the seasonings is exquisite, with the accompanying mushrooms adding an aromatic and textural accent. Despite its small size, this dish has a significant presence.The "Consomme" is a reflection of the restaurant's philosophy, made solely from pork, chicken, and kombu. The clear umami flavor spreads quietly, changing its expression with temperature. It’s impressive how such deep flavors can be drawn from so few ingredients. The "Spanish Mackerel" is beautifully grilled, with a crispy skin and moist flesh. The sauce infused with clam umami envelops the mackerel's fat, leaving a lingering taste of the sea.The "Shiitake" dish features thick shiitake mushrooms paired with egg yolk and potatoes. When you bite into it, the moisture and umami of the shiitake burst forth, complemented by the rich yolk and the smooth sweetness of the potatoes. The "Choshu Beef" is a beautifully finished strip loin in a lovely rosy hue, paired with nameko mushroom sauce. The umami of the mushrooms and the natural thickness envelop the beef, creating a rich yet surprisingly light aftertaste. It’s a combination that overturns preconceived notions.The "Amagi Black Pork" centers around the sweetness of the ingredients, with spices outlining its contours. The high-quality sweetness of the pork fat is accentuated by various spices, which change their aromatic expressions one after another. The spices are not there to dominate but to highlight the umami of the Amagi black pork. The "Hamo" appears as a closing dish of nyumen (thin noodles). The delicate noodles swim beautifully in the clear broth, with the refined sweetness of the hamo quietly permeating the body.The "Shaoxing Wine Ice Cream" leaves a lingering impression typical of this restaurant until the very end. The rich aroma and aged flavor unique to Shaoxing wine blend with the creaminess of the milk, and the sweetness remains gentle. The pleasant aftertaste, reminiscent of finishing a digestif, quietly concludes the course.No matter how many times I visit, the experience never fades. Chef Furuta’s focus on the essence of the ingredients truly makes his cuisine one of a kind. I was reminded once again of how much richness can be expressed through the act of stripping down. It was a great meal.
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