Sushi is a dish that remains relatively consistent throughout the year. Of course, there are seasonal fish, but thanks to advancements in preservation and distribution technology, ingredients like sea urchin and tuna can be enjoyed at a high level year-round, sourced from various regions. Therefore, the concept of "season" in a sushi restaurant lies in what the chef chooses and presents as the symbol of that season. At Sushi Ikkou in Ginza, the answer is clear. Founded in 1982 by Junya Kudo's father, Isamu Kudo, in Sapporo's Makomanai, Junya Kudo took over as the second generation in 2006, moving through Susukino and arriving in Ginza in August 2024. Throughout this journey, they have cultivated signature dishes that make you think, "I want to go eat that" each season.In summer, it’s "ayu" (sweetfish). A sushi chef born in Hokkaido, where ayu is not commonly appreciated, transforms it into his summer specialty. This idea is quintessentially Kudo. The fish is grilled to a perfect crisp, retaining the unique aroma of ayu. When paired with sushi rice, it brings out the river fish flavor distinctly. It’s not just about serving ayu because it’s summer; eating this "ayu" allows you to truly experience summer. Perhaps seasons are not defined by the calendar but by what chefs create. Another interesting aspect was the "sourness." This time, I felt the acidity of the rice more strongly than usual. According to Kudo, this might be related to the humidity and osmotic pressure in summer. Even the perception of the same sushi can change depending on the environment, which is fascinating. Moreover, the sourness feels refreshing for a tired summer body. It’s not just the chef’s design; even the climate influences the flavor of the sushi. This is the mystery and charm of sushi.Here’s the lineup for the day:- Sea Bream- Surf Clam- Kinmedai (Golden Eye Snapper)- Water Clam- Sea Urchin- Half-cooked Bachi (Mackerel)- Haruko (Young Horse Mackerel)- New Squid- Kanpachi (Amberjack)- Horse Manure Sea Urchin- Shinko (Young Sea Bream)- Sea Urchin- Abalone with Sea Urchin- Giant Horse Mackerel- Ayu- Rolls- Tamago (Egg)What strikes me again is that Ikkou has a solid reason for "why to visit in that season." In an era where sea urchin and tuna are delicious year-round, there is value in making you think, "I want to eat that ayu when summer comes." Even within the same season, the perception of the rice's acidity can change with humidity. The seasons created by chefs and those created by nature overlap at the same counter. This year, I also enjoyed ayu and felt the arrival of summer. It was a great meal.
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