Hidden within a mixed-use building in Susukino is the Japanese restaurant "Mieda." Upon entering, you are greeted by a cozy counter with only about eight seats. The owner, Nobumasa Saegusa, began his culinary journey at his family's sushi restaurant, gaining experience in various styles including oden, kaiseki, and sushi, eventually becoming head chef at the age of 24. He opened this restaurant in 2006 after becoming independent at 30. Rather than confining his dishes to traditional Japanese cuisine, he focuses on how to showcase ingredients, enhance their aromas, and leave a lasting impression. While emphasizing seafood from Hokkaido, he skillfully incorporates elements from Western cuisine such as caviar, truffles, and bisque.The meal begins with a dish of water shield and mango in a Tosa vinegar jelly. The smooth texture of the water shield, the ripe sweetness of the mango, and the acidity of the Tosa vinegar create a delightful harmony. By introducing tropical fruit into a dish that embodies the refreshing qualities of Japanese cuisine, the creative switch is turned on from the very first plate. Next is "Pistachio Chawanmushi," a charming pink dish combining sea urchin from Yoichi and pistachios. The smoothness of the chawanmushi, the sweetness of the sea urchin, and the crunchiness and nuttiness of the crushed pistachios create a multi-dimensional experience not only in flavor but also in texture.Then comes the "Sashimi of Hirame (Flounder)." The pristine white flesh is sweet enough on its own, with a firm texture. Diners are encouraged to enjoy it freely with sesame oil, soy sauce, and yuzu ponzu. This confidence in the ingredients allows for a flexible approach to tasting, making it interesting to alter the flavor profile by choosing different condiments. Following this, three pieces of sushi are served. The thickly sliced Meichidai (Japanese sea bream) is enhanced with sesame, while the bonito is garnished with scallions. The Biwa trout is prepared with an extra touch to bring out its sweetness and aroma. This reflects Saegusa's background in sushi while not strictly adhering to the Edomae style, which is characteristic of this restaurant.The Hokkaido corn "Gold Rush" is transformed into a small tart topped generously with caviar. The sweetness and aroma of the grilled corn blend beautifully with the buttery tart crust and the saltiness of the caviar. Next is the "Steak of Ezo Abalone" paired with lobster bisque. The grilled abalone's elasticity and umami are enveloped by a rich crustacean sauce and the aroma of black truffles. The "Bread" is served with chewy dough and truffle butter, designed to savor every bit of the rich sauce.For the "Hot Pot," there are Chinese matsutake mushrooms and Chateaubriand from Gunma Prefecture. The clear broth is delicious on its own, surprising diners with its richness even from Chinese matsutake. The thinly sliced beef is cooked just right, allowing the sweetness and fat of the meat to shine when dipped in a rich sauce with egg yolk. The finale is "Clam Rice," where the umami of the clams is thoroughly infused into the rice in a clay pot, finishing the course with a clam soup that adds even more flavor.For dessert, there is a crème brûlée made with Hokkaido cherries. The charred surface of the fruit adds a tartness that contrasts beautifully with the sweet aroma of coconut milk and the cold ice cream. Throughout the meal, there is no concern for the boundaries between Japanese and Western cuisine; instead, the focus is on creating delicious, enjoyable, and memorable experiences.While centered around high-quality ingredients from Hokkaido, the dishes do not merely adhere to the conventions of Japanese cuisine. Boldly incorporating elements like fruits, nuts, caviar, bisque, and truffles, each dish maintains a harmonious flavor profile. The creativity is not a gimmick for surprise but a means to draw out the allure of the ingredients from different angles. This is the free and powerful Japanese cuisine that only someone like Saegusa, born into a sushi family and experienced in a wide range of cooking, can create. It was a great meal.
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