Dinner at casa del cibo (カーサ・デル・チーボ)

Dinner at casa del cibo (カーサ・デル・チーボ)

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The main event of my trip to Aomori. Without this place, I might not have visited Hachinohe at all.Although the chef is originally from Kanagawa Prefecture, he sought a coastal town due to his longing for seafood. He found a connection to Hachinohe, his wife's hometown, and opened the restaurant in 2011. Initially, he was unsure about the local ingredients, but he has since established deep roots in the community, discovering and elevating the best offerings. Given that this area is not bustling like a city, I can only imagine the challenges he faced to keep the restaurant running for 15 years.I took a local bus from my hotel to arrive right at the 18:45 opening time. It’s impressive how convenient public transport can be.The restaurant is a single-family home in a residential area, and we were seated at a semi-private table in the back with three gentlemen.The course is priced at JPY 15,000, with a full pairing option for JPY 9,000. They also offer lunch for locals, which is a nice way to give back to the community.◯ Hoya from Yagi, Iwate Prefecture The first dish features hoya (sea pineapple) prepared as panna cotta. It is layered with a fresh green sauce made from cucumber and basil, along with a sauce of new onions and anchovies. The lightly cooked hoya shines in orange, presenting a refreshing appearance that captures the season. The unique aroma of hoya is balanced by the freshness of the sauces, making it less noticeable. The juiciness of the hoya is remarkable, though it is slightly salty, which pairs well with drinks.◎ Hirame (flounder) with Shiitake Mushroom Instead of being wrapped in kombu, the hirame is cured with shiitake mushrooms. This preparation gives the fish an unexpectedly meaty texture and flavor. While the hirame itself is quite substantial, the umami from the dried shiitake mushrooms, rich in guanylic acid, adds depth. The saltiness of the karasumi (dried mullet roe) and the ocean aroma outline the deliciousness of both land and sea.Hachinohe Hairy Crab with Polenta and Hairy Crab Sauce The polenta, infused with hairy crab, resembles a savory cake made from corn flour. However, as someone who isn’t particularly moved by shellfish, this dish didn’t resonate with me as much.Chilled Bavette with Saffron, Hachinohe Uni Sauce, and Whale Bonito This marks the beginning of four pasta dishes, a delight for pasta lovers. The slightly flat long pasta pairs well with the uni sauce. The flavor of wheat and the sweetness of the uni match nicely, but I prefer to enjoy uni on its own, and the whale bonito felt somewhat out of place; I would have liked to pair it with sake.◎ Paccheri with Sea Urchin and Homemade Aosa Seaweed This was the best dish of the day. The large, hollow short pasta, paccheri, is often paired with rich ragù sauces, but here it carries the essence of abalone itself, allowing its flavor to shine through. The abalone is tender and exquisite, releasing a pure oceanic umami with each bite. The Aosa seaweed, handpicked by the chef, enhances the dish without overpowering the pasta or abalone, creating a harmonious expression of the sea’s flavors. It evokes a sense of Japanese nuance, making it a dish to savor deeply.◎ Lamb Agnolotti with Foie Gras and Hachinohe Jerusalem Artichoke Consommé This dish takes a punchy turn. The pasta is filled with a smooth lamb filling, and when combined with the rich and creamy foie gras, it creates a robust flavor. The Jerusalem artichoke consommé adds an earthy note that ties everything together. While the pastoral imagery of mountains and animals comes to mind, the indulgent taste of foie gras creates a delightful contrast.◯ Pappardelle with Hachinohe "Hasegawa Natural Farm" Aged Pork Ragù The final pasta dish. The ragù sauce, enveloped in the aroma of summer truffles, provides the power to make the dense, weighty pappardelle pasta irresistible. It’s a wonderful progression of flavors.◎ Aomori "Silver Duck" Ballotine This was my first encounter with the silver duck, a breed from France that is suffocated before processing. It’s impressive to see such dedicated producers. The beautifully rosy meat is juicy, retaining the rich flavor of red meat, with a pleasant iron taste characteristic of duck. The high level of balance and juiciness completely transformed my previous shallow experiences with duck.◯ Dessert is something akin to tiramisu.◎ Tea Confection is Warm Ganache A chocolate ganache that melts in your mouth, with hints of orange. It’s rich yet airy, combining freshness with depth. Ending on a warm note is a nice touch.The wine pairing features selections primarily from France and Italy, offering a good balance of price and quality. The Chablis Premier Cru, in particular, had a pleasant woody aroma that paired excellently with the abalone paccheri.Finally, I had the opportunity to greet the chef and chat with him. The staff were bright and lively, engaging with my jokes, which made for a warm and enjoyable experience. Despite being a high-end restaurant, the atmosphere was quite friendly.Including this ambiance, the restaurant continues to be a place for both travelers and locals, utilizing ingredients from the Hachinohe area to create delicious food. It is a meaningful establishment.

9 / 10