Dinner at Eizan (永山)

Dinner at Eizan (永山)

at Eizan (永山) on 21 July 2026
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I visited on a weekday evening. I made a special trip to Hiroshima just to come here, so I was very much looking forward to it. The interior features a main counter and private rooms. The counter is simple and unadorned, with only a charcoal grill in the center, while cooking takes place in the back. We toasted with Heartland beer and enjoyed the course meal.The first dish was Setouchi octopus topped with plum jelly, mixed with edamame and cucumber. The octopus had a nice chewy texture and a refreshing taste from the plum jelly. The edamame was rich in flavor, and the cucumber added a refreshing touch. At the bottom, there was rock mozuku seaweed, which had a crunchy texture unlike farmed varieties. While it wasn’t flashy, it was a dish that evoked the essence of summer, raising my expectations for the upcoming courses.Next was swordfish with homemade shiba-zuke pickles and glutinous rice. The swordfish was carefully grilled over charcoal, resulting in a fluffy interior. It was served on a bed of glutinous rice, with the shiba-zuke pickles layered in between. The pickles provided a perfect balance of acidity and saltiness, enveloping the soft rice and fish.Then came the white sweet sea bream, cooked with just water and salt, served with turnips. The sweet sea bream had a refined flavor, with its sweetness gradually spreading. The turnips were cooked with only water and salt, allowing the natural flavors to shine through. This dish exemplified the art of simplicity, and the dashi poured over it was incredibly delicious. It was lightly seasoned, yet it didn’t feel lacking; rather, it was quite comforting.At this point, we moved on to Japanese sake. You can order it by the half-go, and based on your preferences, you can enjoy various sakes that pair well with the dishes.For sashimi, we had squid and rockfish. The squid was delicious, with a sticky texture and lingering sweetness from being aged. Eating it with salt and sudachi citrus highlighted its sweetness. The rockfish had a firm, chewy texture and strong umami. When wrapped with its skin and liver, you could savor the full essence of the fish.The highlight of the day was the grilled eel. Slowly grilled over charcoal, it was unbelievably delicious. There was no unpleasant odor, and the skin was crispy while the flesh was tender and fluffy. The difference between this and farmed or river eel was unmistakable. The aroma was wonderful, and because it was grilled rather than sauced, you could truly appreciate the essence of the eel. I savored each piece, stimulating my taste buds and imprinting the flavors in my memory.Next was the fried mackerel, coated in new wheat flour and dressed with nanban vinegar to prevent sogginess. The refined umami of the mackerel paired well with the pleasant acidity of the nanban vinegar. The onions added a crunchy texture, enhancing the contrast. The spring greens from Hiroshima were soft and slightly bitter, making for a perfect accent without overpowering the dish.Then came the Sakakijima beef shabu-shabu. This beef has a low melting point and a strong sweetness, melting in your mouth. While it has a strong umami flavor, it is light and doesn’t carry the heaviness typical of Wagyu. When wrapped with Kujo green onions and Kamo eggplant, it transforms into a Kyoto-style dish, bringing a moment of happiness. The Kamo eggplant, despite being an eggplant, has a melt-in-your-mouth smoothness and dense flesh that is irresistible. The dashi poured over it was exceptional, tying the whole dish together.For rice, we had a mixed rice dish with boiled shirasu (whitebait) and corn, mixed with chopped perilla leaves and ginger. The saltiness of the shirasu combined with the crunchy texture and sweetness of the corn was delightful. The perilla and ginger enhanced the appetite, making the rice slide down easily. As usual, they offered to make any leftovers into onigiri (rice balls), but I finished everything today.For dessert, we had passion fruit, mango, and wasanbon sugar. It had a hint of Japanese flavor while being refreshing with tropical fruits.With the course and drinks, the total came to just over JPY 20,000 per person, offering incredible value. Eizan in Hiroshima is truly a gem. This sums it up perfectly: there’s nothing extravagant, just beautifully crafted dishes that highlight the ingredients. Above all, the use of dashi is impeccable, elevating the dishes to another level. Each dish breathes life into the meal, providing a delightful aftertaste and emotional resonance. I was reminded of the exquisite delicacy of Japanese cuisine and fell in love with this restaurant. I look forward to returning in different seasons to savor the seasonal ingredients of Hiroshima. It was a great meal. Thank you very much.

9 / 10