In Nagahama City, Shiga Prefecture, a historic town that serves as the backdrop for the currently airing NHK Taiga drama "Toyotomi Brothers," the atmosphere is lively with tourists. Situated at the intersection of Hokuriku, Kansai, and Chukyo regions, this town retains a sense of everyday life while also being a tourist destination. I revisited "Kyogoku Zushi" after seven years.The entrance features a sushi special in the December 2025 issue of "Amakara Techo." I had a strong impression of it being a "sushi spot with extraordinary cost performance," and upon learning that they began sourcing from the renowned "Sasue Maeda Fish Shop" in Yaizu, I knew I had to return. Only three establishments in Kansai are permitted to source from "Sasue Maeda Fish Shop": the kaiseki restaurant "Kiyama," the pinnacle of Western cuisine "Yoshoku Ogata," and this "Kyogoku Zushi." The fish sent by Mr. Maeda consists of three types each time, chosen not by the chef but by Mr. Maeda himself, based on what he deems to be in the best condition that day. This system ensures that there are no misses, allowing the chef to trustfully prepare the fish.In conclusion, this place represents the "culmination of local gastronomic sushi disguised as a neighborhood sushi shop." And the prices are unbelievable. 15 pieces of Edomae Omakase Nigiri for JPY 8,800 (tax included) Omakase Sushi Kaiseki for JPY 13,200 (tax included).For this quality at such a price, it would not be surprising if it were two to three times more in urban areas. Despite having the skills and sourcing to operate as a high-end sushi restaurant, they maintain the demeanor of a "town sushi shop" that local customers can visit regularly. This is the pride of the establishment.In fact, the counter is frequented not only by tourists but also by foodies from outside the prefecture. On the day of my visit, there were guests from Yokohama and Tokyo. They explore gourmet spots in Kansai and Hokuriku in the morning and then enjoy sushi in Nagahama. Kyogoku Zushi is perfectly integrated into this culinary journey.On the other hand, I speculate that what truly sets this restaurant apart is not the "tension of being a difficult reservation spot" but rather the "depth of a restaurant that can be visited regularly."They do not start serving all at once. They operate continuously, allowing orders by the piece if desired. They also offer takeout and accommodate leftovers. They do not fuss over customers stepping outside for a smoke. This flexibility is something that is hard to find in today’s urban sushi restaurants.Many high-end sushi places design the time, space, and etiquette, allowing customers to immerse themselves in that world. While that has its charm, Kyogoku Zushi is the opposite; the restaurant integrates into the customers' lives. There is a warmth that embodies the essence of a "town sushi shop."The chef trained at the renowned "Sushi Zen" in Sapporo. Like "Sushi Juubee" in Fukui and "Sushi Daimon" in Toyama, it carries the context of the northern Edomae tradition. However, Kyogoku Zushi is not merely an imitation of Edomae sushi. Being in Shiga, a landlocked prefecture, the sushi style is not overly rigid. The chef states that sushi in Shiga is "not set in stone." This is a fascinating perspective. With fewer fixed notions, the flavors of Edomae, Kansai sushi, Lake Biwa fish, Yaizu fish, and Hokuriku seafood naturally blend together, resulting in a sushi experience that can only exist in Nagahama.Three pieces left a lasting impression:1. Sasue Maeda's Kinmedai Nigiri (with soy sauce and sudachi)The first piece is Kinmedai. Thanks to exceptional dehydration techniques, the texture is incredibly chewy and sensuous. With each bite, the sweetness of the fat oozing from the skin harmonizes with the refreshing acidity of the soy sauce and sudachi, merging beautifully with the rice. This is the power of Sasue and the chef's skill, leaving me breathless.2. Aji Nigiri (with ginger and chives)The thick and perfectly angular Aji has no trace of unpleasant odor; instead, the unique freshness of the blue fish and exquisite fat are in perfect harmony. The ginger and chives on top elevate the richness of the Aji, creating a masterpiece that makes you reluctant to swallow.3. Sasue Maeda's Kue Shabu-Shabu NigiriThe luxurious Kue fish is briefly blanched and then made into nigiri. The heat activates the fish's robust gelatin and fat, transforming it into a unique texture that melts in your mouth. The underlying strength of the Kue, crafted by Sasue, is fully realized through the chef's innovative idea, creating a piece that will remain in my memory.The service is also very attentive. The chef's demeanor is gentle, without being overbearing. The explanations of the dishes and fish are natural and not overly theatrical. The pace of service is never rushed, but in this restaurant, that is part of the experience. It’s better to take your time and align with the rhythm of Nagahama rather than rush through the meal.In relative terms, urban high-end sushi represents "a completed theatrical sushi experience." On the other hand, Kyogoku Zushi is the "highest achievement of locally rooted sushi."While "Sushi Juubee" in Fukui and "Sushi Daimon" in Toyama showcase the strength of Hokuriku fish and Edomae techniques at a high density, Kyogoku Zushi mixes in the ease of Lake Biwa, Kansai sushi, and neighborhood sushi. This uniqueness is quite strong.Considering the quality, sourcing, preparation, service, and the interesting location, the JPY 13,200 sushi kaiseki is an incredible deal. I speculate that even with a price increase, customers would not leave. Yet, the fact that they are postponing a price hike this year reflects the restaurant's philosophy.The words from "Amakara Techo"—"A town sushi shop that integrates into the community and becomes a part of people's lives, and ultimately a part of their lives"—become clear when you visit.Kyogoku Zushi is not just a cheap and delicious restaurant. It has the potential to become a high-end sushi establishment while intentionally remaining a neighborhood sushi shop.Having a sushi restaurant like this in Nagahama is quite a treasure. Although access is not particularly convenient, I highly recommend including Kyogoku Zushi as a gastronomic destination in your travel plans.【Menu I Received (JPY 13,200 Course)】1. Tai with Ume Paste, Grilled Mirugai2. First Bonito Tataki (Smoked Chips) with Garlic Chives ★3. Hatahata Dried Overnight4. Firefly Squid and Kaga Vegetables Tempura5. Clam Dashi Chawanmushi (with Sansho) 6. Sasue Maeda's Kinmedai Nigiri (with soy sauce and sudachi) ★7. Sasue Maeda's Hanadai Nigiri8. Natural Biwa Masu Nigiri9. Nagasaki Hon Maguro Nigiri10. Nagasaki Chutoro (Back Toro) Nigiri (with freshly shaved rock salt)11. Kohada Nigiri12. Aji Nigiri (with ginger and chives) ★13. Shime Saba Nigiri14. Sasue Maeda's Kue Shabu-Shabu Nigiri ★15. Additive-Free Sea Urchin Rice16. Simmered Anago Nigiri17. Sasue Maeda's Fish Broth18. Toro-Taku Roll19. Comparison of Kanto and Kansai-style Tamagoyaki20. Hojicha Bavarois (choice of dessert)