In recent years, I have honestly felt a bit fatigued by the sushi boom centered around Hakata. Popular restaurants are fully booked months in advance, making it a struggle just to secure a seat. Seeking a break from the hustle and bustle, I hopped on the Shinkansen to explore the gourmet scene in Kokura.I visited "Ten Sushi" about ten years ago, but now it has become so popular that I had to give up on revisiting. The prices seem to have increased to nearly 2-3 times what they were back then (laughs). This time, I visited "Sushi Tsubasa," rumored to have evolved uniquely while inheriting the DNA of the legendary "Ten Sushi."Rather than the refined Edomae sushi, the chef creates impressions with each piece through layers of salt, citrus, herbs, temperature, and aroma. While you can sense the background of being from Ten Sushi, it is clear that the chef has traveled across the country, eagerly absorbing new inspirations.Although it may not yet have the flashy recognition of Hakata's top runners, this restaurant offers an incredibly satisfying experience with original dishes born from the chef's relentless quest for excellence.From the perspective of local sushi, the pricing may initially seem bold. However, witnessing the meticulous craftsmanship firsthand, along with the ease of making reservations, convinces me that it is well worth the trip to Kokura.The atmosphere inside is very modern yet retains a warm touch, creating a perfect space. The staff moves with remarkable agility, and their coordination with the chef is impressive. The attention to detail, such as the timing of changing the oshibori and refilling tea, ensures a stress-free dining experience from start to finish.On this day, I enjoyed an omakase course priced at JPY 26,950, which included an adjustment of JPY 1,650 for market price changes.The chef's dedication to exploring the country and continuously absorbing new inspirations is conveyed as a vivid message in each dish.One standout was the spear squid nigiri. This piece, combined with tobiko, sea urchin, and kinome (Japanese pepper leaf), was quite unique. The squid's sticky sweetness, the pop of the tobiko, the rich sweetness of the sea urchin, and the refreshing taste of kinome all harmonized beautifully. This was not just a nigiri topped with high-end ingredients; the textures, aromas, and umami were thoughtfully organized.The nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch) with Japanese radish was also one of my favorites of the day. While nodoguro is a fish that can be overpowering due to its richness, pairing it with radish lightens the aftertaste while still holding onto the fat. It was rich yet not heavy. Unlike the nodoguro found in Hokuriku or San'in, this was designed with balance as a nigiri in mind.Then there was the salt-baked, 146.6 kg aged tuna. To be honest, I wished I could have tasted a bit more of the aged tuna. It had depth in aroma, acidity, and umami, with a sense of iron from the red meat and roundness from the aging.That’s why it felt a bit regrettable to end with just one piece. I understand that this restaurant has a different direction than an Edomae sushi shop that focuses on tuna, but I wanted to savor this tuna even deeper.Here, you can enjoy a unique local sushi experience infused with the essence of Ten Sushi. Given the chef's passionate quest for knowledge, I believe this restaurant is still on the path of evolution.This is why I can’t resist exploring local gems. I strongly feel that I want to visit again when I come to Kokura. It was a truly wonderful establishment that left a lasting impression.【Menu Items】1. White clam and pure mozuku from the Kanmon Strait2. Vinegared sardine3. Akou (kijihata) marinated in salt kombu4. Chawanmushi with karasumi and boiled shirasu5. Julep of Spanish mackerel and okra6. Small sea bream nigiri7. Sea bream and green onion nigiri8. Spear squid (tobiko, sea urchin, kinome) nigiri★9. Grilled white sweetfish skin nigiri10. Nodoguro (Japanese radish salad) nigiri★11. Kohada nigiri12. Salt-baked, 146.6 kg aged tuna nigiri13. Sweet shrimp nigiri14. Whiting nigiri15. Sea urchin nigiri★16. Anago (conger eel) nigiri17. Grilled sweet shrimp head18. Tamagoyaki (Japanese omelet)19. Miso soup20. Freshly squeezed watermelon juice.
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