This was my third visit to Tokiwa Sushi in Niigata City. Once again, I had a precious moment with the young head chef's top apprentice. Each time I come here, I feel that this place is not just a sushi restaurant, but rather a venue that expresses the food culture of Niigata through sushi.From the start, the sourcing and design of the ingredients were clear. The squid from Matsuhama at the mouth of the Agano River was carefully massaged with kombu broth to enhance its umami. The rare Awadachi (local name for Shiro-amadai) caught at Niigata Port was paired with sushi rice mixed with citrus peel, highlighting its delicate sweetness.The organic lotus root from Gosen is a rare ingredient found in only a few places nationwide, and it was served with a variety called "Awazusuka," which combines yuzu and sudachi. The idea of using lotus root as a sushi topping is innovative, resulting in a unique piece that combines the sweetness of the earth with the fragrance of citrus.The 144 kg bluefin tuna caught in a fixed net from Sado was presented in three stages: the lean part was paired with black rice sushi, asparagus, garlic shoots, burdock, and cucumber juice; the medium fatty tuna was marinated; and the fatty tuna was wrapped in nori. This structure, changing the parts and cooking methods of the same fish, demonstrates both respect for the ingredients and depth of skill.Niigata's nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch) was prepared using a unique technique of grilling the skin before serving it as shabu-shabu, which lightens the texture while retaining the rich flavor and aroma of the fat. The sweet shrimp had its shells dried and powdered, embodying the philosophy of utilizing every part of the ingredient.The pounded mackerel was paired with wild celery and kaya seeds, followed by lightly pickled turnips from Shibata to cleanse the palate, and finished with anago (conger eel) coated in a sauce that has been simmered for 72 years. The asparagus sushi roll, combined with flounder soboro and sardine fish sauce, is a typical Tokiwa Sushi expression of using vegetables as toppings.The meal concluded with an eel soup and a rolled omelet. These two unpretentious final dishes quietly wrapped up the long dining experience.The Japanese sake was served in 60 ml portions from nine renowned breweries in Niigata, with Kamo Nishiki "Hafuda Sake Shiboritate BY'25" and Abe Shuzo "Yasuda Torigoe 2024" particularly standing out. The fresh fruitiness and acidity of Hafuda Sake naturally complemented the white fish and shellfish in the first half, while the terroir-driven depth of Yasuda Torigoe harmonized beautifully with the tuna, nodoguro, and anago in the latter half. It was a night where the food and sake enhanced each other.Even after three visits, there are always new discoveries. Watching the apprentice at work, I felt a strong sense of continuity for the next generation. I’ve already made a reservation for next month. I will definitely return.
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