Dinner at Kizan (貴山)

Dinner at Kizan (貴山)

at Kizan (貴山) on 19 July 2026
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I was invited by a gourmet acquaintance to visit "Kizan" near Mitsukoshimae Station. It’s a Japanese restaurant just a 2-minute walk from the station, featuring a modest exterior primarily in black.This unique establishment uses items inherited from "Kyo-mi," including the calligraphy of Kenichiro Nishi, as well as the chairs and tableware.The owner, Yuki Kanamori, trained for about 16 years at the renowned restaurant "Kyo-mi," which sadly closed, and is said to be the last direct disciple of Kenichiro Nishi. After "Kyo-mi" closed, he honed his skills at "Ajihiro," run by fellow "Kyo-mi" alumnus Tomohiro Gunji, before opening "Kizan" in October 2024.In terms of accolades, Kizan impressively received the Tabelog Silver Award within just a year of opening, showcasing its exceptional talent.At "Kizan," the commitment to faithfully preserving the essence of "Kyo-mi" is evident not only in the cuisine but also in the tableware, chairs, and overall interior design. The dishes focus on the fundamentals of dashi, cutting techniques, cooking methods, and presentation, all executed with great care.The course I enjoyed that day included the following:**Appetizers** Hamo Sushi, Green Beans with Black Sesame, Bachi-ko... The hamo sushi features fluffy hamo (pike eel) that blends beautifully with the vinegared rice. The green beans with black sesame are fragrant, and the concentrated umami of the bachi-ko ties the dish together.**Yoshino-ni of Red Sweet Potato Stems (Zuiki)**... The crisp texture of the red sweet potato stems combined with the refined umami of the thick dashi is simply wonderful.**Miso Dengaku with Fig**... The sweetness of the ripe fig melds seamlessly with the saltiness and richness of the miso, creating a delightful experience in the mouth.**Grilled Hamo and Sashimi**... The grilled hamo has a fragrant surface and a pleasant chewiness, releasing the umami with each bite. The sashimi, with its finely cut bones, offers a light and delicate texture. Both preparations showcase remarkable skill, making for a luxurious tasting experience.**Tempura** Abalone... The abalone retains its elasticity while being tender and bursting with flavor. Corn... The thin batter enhances the sweetness of the corn, making it incredibly delicious.**Sashimi** Sea Bream... The translucent Akashi sea bream has a firm bite and subtle sweetness, clearly indicating its freshness. Bonito... The bonito is rich in umami with a sticky texture that is truly delightful.**Soup**... The clear dashi, infused with the umami of over 500g of fresh red sweetfish and Wakasa gurnard, is breathtakingly delicious. The fish retains a pleasant texture, and the harmony between the ingredients and the broth is exceptional.**Grilled Sweetfish with Salt and Dried**... The sweetfish is grilled to perfection from head to tail, capturing the essence of summer, including the slight bitterness of the innards. The drying process concentrates the flavor, resulting in a crispy skin and a firmer texture compared to the grilled version.**Simmered Dishes**... The small potatoes are tender yet maintain their shape, while the chestnuts offer a sweet richness. The unique texture of the baby octopus, the chewy aomochi, and the refreshing crunch of the snap peas create a harmonious dish, all brought together by a refined dashi.**Sea Urchin Eggplant**... Thick slices of Kamo eggplant are carefully fried, topped with miso and sweet shrimp, then finished with a layer of red sea urchin, a dish originating from "Kyo-mi." The eggplant retains its shape while being incredibly soft inside, creating a melt-in-your-mouth texture. The richness of the miso and the sweetness of the red sea urchin blend beautifully, with the shrimp adding a delightful bounce. This dish, with its standout ingredients, was particularly memorable in the course.**Rice (with pickles, seaweed, braised beef, sea bream with sesame, and ochazuke)**... The freshly cooked clay pot rice is fluffy and glossy. The sweet and savory braised beef is tender, perfectly complementing the white rice. Enjoying the crispy seaweed and crunchy pickles adds a delightful variation in flavor. The second bowl of rice is served with sea bream and sesame. The rich sesame sauce coats the sea bream while the wasabi adds a refreshing touch. Delicious. The third bowl is ochazuke with sea bream and seaweed. The richness of the sesame blends throughout, while the aromas of wasabi and seaweed create a light finish. I thoroughly enjoyed all three bowls.**Dessert (Kuzukiri)**... The kuzukiri, prepared right in front of me, is striking with its translucent appearance and bouncy texture. It provided a refreshing conclusion after the rich meal.Overall, I experienced a wonderful restaurant where Yuki Kanamori, who trained for about 16 years at "Kyo-mi" and later became independent after working at "Ajihiro," sincerely carries on the spirit of Japanese cuisine, including the dishes, tableware, chairs, and the overall ambiance.As a highly sought-after establishment that does not accept new reservations, the barrier to securing a reservation is quite high. However, if you are fortunate enough to receive an invitation, it is worth rescheduling other plans to attend.At the private event that day, I was joined by eight people, including some of the most exciting star chefs. The restaurant and the food were impressive, but the lineup of participants was astonishing.Sitting next to me was a chef from a super popular Italian restaurant that I also love. I enjoyed the food while engaging in conversation with the chef, making for a fantastic four hours.I definitely want to visit again; it was a truly remarkable restaurant.

10 / 10