Following my visit to "Respiration" last year, I explored the culinary delights of Kanazawa at "Tempura Koizumi." Nestled in a back alley of Ikeda-cho, just off the bustling streets of Katamachi, the restaurant's traditional townhouse exterior adorned with a noren curtain exudes a quintessential Kanazawa charm.The owner, Seijiro Koizumi, hails from Osaka and has honed his culinary skills at tempura restaurants, Japanese eateries, and sushi bars in Osaka and Tokyo.Recognized with two Michelin stars in the 2021 Hokuriku Special Edition, as well as the Tabelog Award 2026 Bronze, and selections in the Tempura 100 Best Restaurants for 2025, 2023, and 2022, this establishment is a true gem.The ingredients are primarily sourced from the ports of Fukui, Himi, Nanao, and Kanazawa, with many vegetables coming from local farmers. Notably, Koizumi himself sometimes forages wild mountain vegetables.On this day, I enjoyed the "Lunch Omakase Course," which included the following:**Vinegared Horse Mackerel** - The rich fat of the mackerel is perfectly balanced with the acidity of the vinegar, complemented by the sticky texture and fresh aroma of the bracken. This dish served as a light yet memorable introduction before the tempura.**Sashimi of Sea Bream and Cuttlefish** - The sea bream offered a refined umami, while the cuttlefish was sweet and tender, beautifully sliced. Although served at a tempura restaurant, the careful handling of the fish heightened my anticipation for the upcoming tempura.**Cuttlefish** - Aged for two weeks, the cuttlefish was sweet and had a delightful texture. The light batter did not overpower the cuttlefish's natural flavor.**Fava Beans** - These were deliciously sweet and fluffy, with their aroma enhanced by frying. I was thrilled to enjoy such a tasty vegetable tempura.**Whiting** - The flesh was fluffy, and the light batter allowed the delicate umami of the white fish to shine through. When enjoyed with salt, the fish's aroma spread beautifully.**Wild Vegetables** - This dish featured a plant that grows in coastal areas, offering a subtle bitterness and fresh aroma, making it a delightful addition.**Tempura of Sugamo Seaweed with White Shrimp and Caviar** - The oceanic scent of the seaweed and its crispy texture, combined with the saltiness of the caviar, highlighted the sweetness of the white shrimp, creating an exquisite dish with a wealth of flavors.**Zucchini** - When bitten into, it released a burst of moisture and sweetness. Despite being fried, it retained its refreshing quality.**Palate Cleanser** - Amidst the tempura, this dish provided a refreshing break with its acidity and juiciness. The light acidity of the tomato was particularly cleansing, while the crispness of the watercress added texture. I’m not fond of pickled shallots, so my wife enjoyed those.**Ribbonfish** - The tender white flesh flaked beautifully, with a toasty skin and the elegant fat characteristic of ribbonfish. The light batter complemented the fish's softness without being heavy.**Kaga Lotus Root** - With a chewy texture and crispy fried skin, this dish was a delightful textural contrast.**Oysters** - Cooked to retain their creamy interior, the crispy batter paired wonderfully with the rich umami of the oysters.**Onions** - Crisp and juicy with a satisfying sweetness, this simple dish was very fulfilling.**Conger Eel** - Coated in a slightly thicker batter, it had a crunchy texture and fluffy flesh, with the aroma of the eel wafting through. Each ingredient was fried to perfection, and this conger eel was no exception, yet it felt light.**Meal Finale: Tempura Rice and Tempura Tea** - To conclude, I enjoyed tempura rice and tempura tea. The tempura rice had a crunchy, fragrant texture that paired well with the rice, while the tempura tea was light and refreshing. These two dishes left me completely satisfied.**Mugwort Ice Cream** - Finally, the delicate aroma of mugwort spread pleasantly, and the sweet red bean paste inside was exquisitely refined, greatly enhancing my post-meal satisfaction.Overall, "Tempura Koizumi" offers a meticulous tasting experience of Hokuriku seafood, vegetables, and wild plants, making it clear why dining here is significant in Kanazawa. The light, crispy batter left little residual oil, showcasing impressive culinary skills.The restaurant adjusts the cooking methods and batter thickness for each ingredient, quietly layering aromas and textures. The accolades of two Michelin stars and Tabelog awards are well-deserved, and the course was highly satisfying.While prices in urban areas might be double, it’s delightful to find such quality at reasonable local prices.It was truly a wonderful restaurant, and I look forward to visiting again.
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