I regularly visit this place.Every time, my satisfaction level is high.The head chef excels at elevating flavors by questioning existing concepts.His focus is on "identifying weaknesses and how to complement them."For example, on this day, we had kohada (young gizzard shad).After spawning, it tends to have less fat.However, the chef questions whether kohada really needs that much fat,which can sometimes lead to unpleasant odors.During this season, he prepares the kohada by tightly curing it to draw out its flavor.Thus, even with the same ingredient, he adjusts his approach based on the season and condition,creating a rich umami.Here’s what we had that day:**Appetizers** - Young sweetfish simmered in Arima style - Mozuku seaweed with junsai - Sashimi: Bonito, Matsukawa flounder, and octopus Each with a different salt. - White clam - Chawanmushi (savory egg custard) The dashi is still made with clams, but this time, it includes roasted nori for an umami explosion. - Grilled Ebodai (sweetfish) Quickly seared on the skin, leaving the inside moist. - Ankou (anglerfish liver) A specialty, it’s incredibly soft as it’s made without soy sauce. - Unagi (eel) Sweetly simmered, with a crispy skin and fluffy inside.**Nigiri** - Spring kohada cured with kombu This is the best time for fat content. The rice is gently pressed. - Shirasu (whitebait) marinated in vinegar With skin on, but softened by vinegar. - White sweetfish cured with kombu, with excellent fat content. - Aori ika (bigfin reef squid) The flesh is thick, sliced thinly, layered for a perfect harmony with the rice. Served with water salt (saturated saltwater) and sudachi citrus. This water salt is quite salty on its own, but when combined with the squid, it flows and doesn’t taste overly salty. - Mehikari (shiny fish) Served fresh. It’s said to be available only at its best size and condition. This dish was memorable that day. - Marinated fish - Kinmedai (golden eye snapper) The raw version has a strong flavor, so shiso leaves are mixed into the rice, adding a fragrant touch later. - Chutoro (medium fatty tuna) - Kohada - Botan ebi (sweet shrimp) Served with miso and crushed roasted shells. The sweetness of the shrimp and the aroma of the miso are delightful. - Purple sea urchin from Rishiri - Anago (conger eel) - Fish bones and leftover parts in broth - Tamago (egg)To accompany, I had a soda mixed with umeshu (plum wine).By the way, the chef's sake pairing is highly praised.The salt used here is crafted by Mr. Yamashita from Awaji.He offers around 2000 types of custom-made salt and can make fine adjustments.The vinegar is from Yokoi Brewery, using both light and dark red vinegars.Once again, I was thoroughly satisfied.
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