Dinner at Kisanuki

Dinner at Kisanuki

at Kisanuki on 16 June 2026
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On this Saturday, which was a holiday, I was fortunate to have no plans and managed to snag a cancellation at a hard-to-book OMAKASE restaurant, making a quick trip to Kanazawa after a long time!Coincidentally, the "Hyakumangoku Festival" was taking place, and the city center of Kanazawa was under traffic restrictions, making it difficult to move around. In the midst of this, I enjoyed gold leaf soft serve ice cream and sweets at a museum. After that, I gave up on visiting other restaurants and enjoyed the parade of the "Hyakumangoku Festival" while heading towards Omicho Market. What a crowd it was! After a while, I walked to the restaurant, which took about 20 minutes from the Omicho Market area. I arrived a bit early, so I relaxed in the nearby park before heading to the restaurant.And here I am at Kisanuki! I had wanted to visit this place for a long time, as the chef here previously worked under the renowned Katabori, who is currently ranked number one on Tabelog nationwide. I still haven't been to Katabori yet, though...Now, here’s what I had, in the order it was served:Drinks:- Beer- Hayashi from Hayashi Brewery, Toyama Prefecture- Gorin from Kuramoto, Ishikawa Prefecture1. Shiitake KochaA broth infused with the aroma and umami of shiitake mushrooms, made with spring water used in the dishes. It truly captivates the heart! 2. AperitifYoshida Sake Brewery, Ishikawa Prefecture, Tedori River Yoshida Warehouse, Hyakumangoku no Shiro3. SakizukeKuzu tofu with wild celery and Fukui Prefecture's purple sea urchin. Opening the lid reveals a beautifully presented dish. The subtle bitterness and aroma of the wild celery lead to the sweetness and umami of the purple sea urchin. I was already impressed from the very first dish.4. OshinogiRice porridge with Nanao clam from Ishikawa Prefecture. The texture of the grilled clam spreads sweetness and umami in the mouth. The liver is placed delicately on top of the porridge, and it’s delicious! Using the clam's liver is a skill that comes from freshness and careful preparation. The lingering aroma of yuzu is delightful.5. SoupKanazawa rockfish and wild bracken. I took a sip of the clear broth first. After the aroma of yuzu, the flavor of kombu emerges in a clear taste. The rockfish is fluffy and tender, and the texture and flavor of the wild bracken are wonderful. I felt like the wild bracken was well-seasoned. The lingering taste of plum paste is also nice.I think this was the best soup I’ve ever had.6. SashimiNanao akagai, Himi ara from Toyama Prefecture, squid, and sweet shrimp from Kanazawa, topped with konowata. Served with sudachi, seaweed salt, soy sauce, and vinegar. The sashimi was cut and served right in front of the counter by Kisanuki. It was impressive how carefully they handled the ingredients.Starting with the akagai, I was advised to try it with just wasabi, and it was amazing! I could taste a flavor reminiscent of kombu. The ara had a firm texture and rich umami. Eating it with vinegar was also delightful. The squid was finely cut, and it was incredibly sweet. The sweet shrimp had a sticky sweetness, complemented by the umami and saltiness of the konowata, pairing perfectly with the Japanese sake.7. Fried DishTempura of anglerfish and green beans with black sesame. This might be my first time having anglerfish as tempura. The flesh was plump and elastic, with concentrated umami. The lingering taste of the batter was also delightful! Even the green beans with black sesame were perfectly flavored.8. Simmered DishNew onions and snap peas. The impact of ginger leads to the rich sweetness of the tender new onions. The snap peas burst with a delightful texture. All topped with a flavorful broth. It was simple yet outstanding!9. Grilled DishCharcoal-grilled nodoguro with wasabi and daikon. The nodoguro was fragrant, rich in fat, and incredibly tender. It was beyond delicious, truly the best nodoguro!10. Strong DishIwa oyster from Chirihama, Ishikawa Prefecture. Often described as milky, this oyster truly lives up to that description. It paired exceptionally well with the Japanese sake.11. Soup DishSoft-shelled turtle soup. Here, I took a moment to relax with this soup! The umami of the soft-shelled turtle is irresistible!12. Vinegared DishUnagi and cucumber from Mikata Goko, Fukui Prefecture, served as uzaku. Next up was unagi! The skin was grilled to a crispy finish, served with cucumber in vinegar.13. Simmered DishKataha (water bracken) rolled in fried tofu. The texture and stickiness of kataha, along with the sweet broth absorbed by the fried tofu, warmed my heart before the meal.14. Rice Dishes: a. Freshly cooked rice (Noto Hikari), Himi beef simmered, pickles (white cucumber, wood ear mushrooms), and miso soup with wild boar and new onions. The freshly cooked rice was sweet, fluffy, and chewy. The simmered dish, pickles, and miso soup were all delicious without any flaws. b. New onion rice. Chilled cooked new onions served on top of rice. The sweetness of the new onions was outstanding. The impact created by the new onions was simply wonderful. c. Marinated horse mackerel rice bowl. Oh, it was just delicious... haha. d. Tempura of knife fish rice bowl. Fluffy knife fish... pure bliss! e. TKG (Tamago Kake Gohan). They added katsuobushi halfway through. I could only sigh in delight... f. Ume dashi chazuke. Finally, a refreshing ume dashi chazuke.15. DessertKinoha warabi mochi.16. Matcha.Wow, it was truly wonderful! This course gave me a feeling like puzzle pieces fitting together after a long time. The dishes were served one by one as they were ready, rather than all at once, which left a great impression. There are still so many amazing restaurants out there. With only seven counter seats and one seating per night, I now understand why reservations are so difficult, almost hopeless.The young apprentices were also fantastic, making for a very comfortable stay. Although Kisanuki himself didn’t come out much, he was aware of the conversations with the apprentices and made a point to greet all the guests when he was present, which was impressive.It was incredibly delicious! It was a great meal!

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