A long-awaited return visit. After passing through the waiting room, I was led to an elegant marble counter adorned with cutting-edge visual displays, instantly lifting my spirits. The kitchen led by Chef Genta Kuranaga, the versatile pairings by Sommelier Taito Watanabe, and the desserts crafted by Pastry Chef Yoshihiko Tominaga—these three musketeers of the newly reborn unis create a course that boasts a meticulously calculated "perfect architecture" from aperitif to farewell gift.I want to reflect on the overwhelming story told through all 10 dishes, infused with the breath of summer.◆ Prologue: Melon and Lime Mojito, and Chablis V.V.The course begins with a perfect awakening for the palate. Having arrived by car, I chose the non-alcoholic pairing of "Melon and Lime Mojito." The juicy and rich sweetness of the melon is elegantly balanced by the sharp acidity of lime, refreshing my palate for the story ahead. The delicate lattice-patterned glass enhances the vibrant green color of the drink.Meanwhile, my companion enjoyed a glass of "Domaine Vocoret et Fils" Chablis 2022 Vieilles Vignes. The concentrated flavor and beautiful minerality from the old vines serve as a perfect foreshadowing for the upcoming seafood and fruity acidity. From the start, the counter is already radiating the best energy.◆ Yoneyama Farm "Edamame" / Consommé, Water Shield, Winter Melon, Shiso FlowerThe first dish features the fresh aroma of edamame grown at Yoneyama Farm as the star of this cold appetizer. Essentially, it is a cold royal (Western-style chawanmushi), and it is truly magnificent. Based on a clear and flavorful consommé, the smooth texture of water shield and the juiciness of winter melon come together. The subtle fragrance of shiso flower adds a touch of summer, beautifully transforming the essence of Japanese summer into a French technique. It pairs excellently with the minerality of Chablis.◆ Yamamoto Farm "Hoshitsubu Corn" / Polenta, Black TruffleThis dish packs a powerful punch, maximizing the sweetness of corn. The "Hoshitsubu Corn" from Yamamoto Farm is prepared in the traditional Italian polenta style. Notably, the "burnt soy sauce" connects the sweetness of the corn with the earthy aroma of abundant black truffles. By hinting at the nuance of "grilled corn" ingrained in Japanese DNA, it builds a bridge of addictive flavor within the elegance of French cuisine. An intellectual yet instinctively appealing masterpiece.◆ Hokkaido "Water Octopus" / Gold Barrel Pineapple, Fennel, Okra, Sea GrapesThe Hokkaido water octopus is cooked to perfection, achieving a clingy texture, paired with the acidity of the finest pineapple, "Gold Barrel," in a ceviche style. Instead of relying on the sweetness of the flesh, the jelly is extracted from the sharpest part of the skin, eliminating any cloying sweetness and imparting only wild acidity and tropical aroma. The pop of sea grapes layered with the luxurious saltiness of caviar, along with the smooth purée of fennel, creates a contrast of refined freshness and exquisite texture.◆ Kyoto "Hamo" / Pumpkins, Spaghetti Squash, Kinome, DukkahThis dish features fried hamo (pike eel), a symbol of summer in Kyoto, beautifully garnished with vibrant edible flowers and refreshing herbs, presented as our signature "Bouquet Salad." The lightly fried hamo, with the green aroma of kinome and the exotic spice of Middle Eastern dukkah, bursts with delightful flavors. The crispy spaghetti squash and smooth pumpkin mash create a perfect contrast in texture, merging visual surprise with complex layers of taste.【Pairing】 The non-alcoholic glass features cold-brewed sencha and gyokuro. It harmonizes with the aroma of kinome, while the robust amino acids of gyokuro counter the spice's punch. The bitterness of the cold brew cleanses the fried richness, achieving a genius tea pairing.◆ Nagasaki Goto Islands "Kue" / Celery Root, Chanterelle, Uwabami Greens, CoconutThe moistly cooked pure white kue is paired with a sauce that highlights the mellow richness of coconut and the refreshing bitterness of celery root. The fragrant aroma of chanterelles and the juicy texture of the wild vegetable uwabami greens are exquisite. I soak up the superb sauce, bursting with intense umami, with the freshly baked brioche served just before. This reflects the restaurant's overwhelming confidence, ensuring that no sauce is left behind for the guests.【Pairing】 A tea made from Kuro-moji. The tranquil forest aroma of the wild fragrant wood perfectly links with the rustic flavors of chanterelles and wild vegetables, drawing the kue, a seafood delicacy, into the "scenery of the mountains."◆ "unis Soba" / Sudachi, Eggplant, Whelk, MintThis signature dish completely transcends the typical "palate cleanser". The upper part of the glass is covered with sudachi espuma (foam), but in reality, it is a cold capellini (not made with buckwheat). The purée soup of "grilled eggplant," maximized for aroma, combines with the robust texture of whelk and the refreshing taste of mint. The sharp acidity of sudachi unifies these elements, ensuring that not a drop of soup is left behind.【Pairing】 A blend of hojicha and Japanese black tea. The roasted aroma of hojicha synchronizes with the grilled eggplant, while the richness of Japanese black tea envelops the acidity. This perfectly resets the palate, cutting through the lingering richness.◆ Hokkaido Shiranuka "Ezo Deer" / Oura Burdock, SanshoThe Ezo deer from Shiranuka, hunted by one of Japan's top hunters, is beautifully cooked to a perfect ruby color. Paired with thick "Oura burdock," the rich red wine sauce based on deer broth (fond) is infused with the sharpness of sansho. The citrus-like tingling of sansho harmonizes the pure red meat's texture with the earthy aroma of burdock, elevating classic game dishes to a surprisingly modern aftertaste.【Pairing】 My glass features a special infusion based on hojicha and Japanese black tea, reconstructed with cloves to mimic Burgundy red wine. Meanwhile, my companion enjoyed a glass of Chassagne-Montrachet 2020 V.V. The non-alcoholic approach and the elegant nuances of Pinot Noir both perfectly complement the sansho sauce.◆ (Off-Menu) Lobster and Tomato RisottoA classic hidden gem served after the main course. The rice, soaked with the rich lobster bisque, is topped with sweet roasted tomatoes. The violent deliciousness of the ocean's umami and the earth's acidity intertwine, but considering the desserts to follow, it's wise to keep it at a "normal portion"—a clever choice for adults.◆ Kanagawa Yagishita Farm "Blueberry" / Kuro-moji, Finger LimeHere begins the aromatic magic by Pastry Chef Tominaga. On top of the blancmange, a layer of finger lime jelly, large blueberries, sorbet, and a pink sorbet made from the wild fragrant wood "Kuro-moji" are layered. The tranquil forest aroma of Kuro-moji intersects with the seductive fruitiness, while the acidity of finger lime bursts forth. The intense elements that could lead to chaos are elegantly held together by the creaminess of the dairy, creating a "edible perfume."【Pairing】 Jasmine-infused frozen oolong tea. By contrasting the "forest" of Kuro-moji with the "flower" aroma of jasmine, an oriental three-dimensionality is created.◆ Miyazaki "Masahiro Mango" / Hannan Banana, Passion Fruit, Coffee BeansThe grand finale features perfectly ripe mango from Miyazaki. With a texture that feels completely free of fibers and a pure sweetness without any off-flavors, it is layered with sorbet made from Hannan banana. Notably, the sharp granita of passion fruit tightens the acidity, along with the central "white ice cream." This ice cream directly conveys the slight bitterness of coffee beans, adding a deep adult bitterness to the tropical sweetness. Chef Tominaga's overwhelming calculation in incorporating a bitter surprise into the flavors is remarkable.◆ "Petit Fours" and Overall ImpressionA tart with pink flower petals encased in jelly and crispy petit fours coated in vibrant herb powder. Together with a refreshing lemongrass herbal tea, they quietly land the fully activated palate. Upon leaving, I was handed chopsticks with the unis logo, pound cake with tea and milk, and cherry jelly as a farewell gift. This creates a perfect pathway to relive the wonderful memories of that night at my table the next day.From the aperitif to the final dish and farewell gift, every aspect is meticulously calculated. This place is perfect as a stage for smartly escorting women, with couples on dates surrounding us. However, the essence of this restaurant undoubtedly lies "on the plate." The projection mapping and other performances honestly do not matter to me; I was able to focus on the intricate calculations and pairing logic unfolding on the plate.That said, it would be a mistake to think I neglected my companion while immersed in the food. While savoring the exquisite cuisine, I engaged in conversation with the chef and sommelier, and even satisfied the beautiful woman next to me. This advanced multi-thread management is the hallmark of an adult man, and perhaps because of this, I was able to secure a promise for a gourmet date at a notoriously difficult-to-book restaurant in August during our conversation that night.A flawless culinary theater worthy of being at the forefront of Tokyo. I look forward to returning to experience the joy of this delightful multitasking in another season.
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