In the back alleys of Akasaka Mitsuke, I silenced my smartphone notifications and wrapped up work early. There, in front of Jigen Do, a charming establishment with a quietly glowing lantern nestled in a mud wall niche, stood Rina (a pseudonym, 29) dressed in a chic black dress. Upon noticing me, she waved with a gentle smile.As we slid into the solid wood counter made from a single piece of zelkova, a pleasant aroma wafted down from the massive hexagonal hood above. Although I’ve visited each season, this was my first encounter with the summer course."It’s still so bright outside. It feels a bit indulgent, like we’re drinking during the day," Rina whispered playfully, leaning closer while swirling the bubbles in her champagne glass.Looking around, I noticed the restaurant was filled with women engrossed in capturing the perfect angle for social media and couples that seemed straight out of a painting. The overly glamorous lighting and ambiance almost overwhelmed me with a "Minato Ward noise," but a glance at Chef Iizuka standing by the grill quickly reminded me that this was no ordinary Instagrammable spot.◆ The First Half: A Symphony of Aroma and BrothJust after savoring the "Chilled Somen with Hairy Crab and Shiso Leaves" served in a gold-rimmed cut glass bowl, the hexagonal grill ignited to a blazing 800°C. Rina’s eyes widened in surprise as she tasted the restaurant's signature "Grilled Water Spinach.""Wow... Amazing. The moment I bite into it, the fragrant aroma bursts forth, yet it remains so refreshing thanks to being chilled in ice water," she exclaimed.We enjoyed the "Grilled Nodoguro (Blackthroat Sea Perch)" with sudachi salt, followed by the rich sweetness of "Ise Lobster with Kombu Kelp and Sea Urchin." Just as the luxurious fat and aroma began to saturate our palates, the "Sweet Sea Bream and Sweet Potato Stem Soup" arrived in a lacquered bowl adorned with maki-e.The clear first broth, made from Rishiri kombu, was a delight, with the fluffy steamed sweet sea bream and the pleasantly textured sweet potato stem. This remarkable simplicity created a perfect interval, ensuring the course's outline remained sharp.After enjoying the "Flap Meat Steamed with Whiskey Barrel Chips" and a compote of white peaches, the enticing aroma from the grill intensified.◆ The Art of Cooking Eel: A Masterful TechniqueThe chef presented a stunning sea eel from a wooden box, its amber sheen and sauce aroma wafting through the air. As the knife sliced through the glossy skin on the cutting board, a satisfying "crunch" echoed in the quiet counter.Served on a heavy black-glazed plate with sansho pepper and Manzanilla peppers, the grilled eel was a revelation. The moment I took a bite, the crispiness and the firm texture of the meat made me gasp in delight."How do you achieve this extraordinary crunch?" I asked, intrigued.With a playful smile, the chef revealed, "The sea eel has thick skin, so I deep-fry it in oil before finishing it over the firewood."It made sense. By quickly removing moisture from the skin with high-temperature oil and then exposing it to the strong heat of the firewood, the collagen in the skin transforms into a delightful texture, while the aroma of the wood firmly adheres to the oil."This crispy skin is addictive. The refreshing kick from the sansho is so elegant," Rina said, happily continuing to eat, while I marveled at the chef's precise culinary thermodynamics.◆ From the Clay Pot's Embers to the Finale of CarbohydratesAfter finishing the golden broth made with large abalone and grouper, we approached the climax. The chef opened the lid of a black clay pot, releasing a wave of fragrant steam infused with the heat of the embers directly placed on the rice. It was "Corn and Zucchini Clay Pot Rice."I took a bite of the rice as is, then relished the three accompaniments: fluffy "Shirasu (Whitebait)," zesty "Mentaiko (Spicy Cod Roe)," and sweet-savory "Braised Beef Rib." I kept refilling my bowl with each.Finally, I smoothly devoured the beautifully twisted handmade udon topped with a bright red smoked egg yolk."While other guests seem satisfied with just the first bowl, you’ve completely conquered the clay pot rice with the three accompaniments and still have room for that udon? Your appetite is truly impressive," Rina said, her eyes narrowing in delight.I smiled back, saying, "Missing out on the three accompaniments and the smoked egg yolk with this clay pot rice would be like throwing away half of Jigen Do's course."◆ The Evening's Aftertaste and the Counter's ConspiracyAs the excitement of the carbohydrates settled, a water yokan made with wasanbon sugar arrived on a leaf-patterned plate. It was paired with "Cold Brew Kinsen Tea" served in an antique glass with delicate etching. The sweet, milky aroma rising from the glass harmonized with the refined sweetness of the wasanbon, washing away the lingering smoke and fat in my mouth.Finally, the last dish appeared on a vibrant millefiori Venetian glass plate: a beautiful quenelle of "Blueberry Yogurt Ice Cream." Made fresh without ever being frozen, it had a "3-minute shelf life." As I slid the spoon into my mouth, the texture was so smooth it felt like a different dimension, melting like fresh snow and enveloping my tongue with the refreshing tartness of yogurt. "Incredibly smooth..." Rina gazed at her spoon in awe.As we settled the bill, the chef leaned over the counter and whispered about his "new project revolving around firewood." While I can’t reveal the details yet, I’m excited to see what unfolds when this refined cooking intersects with passionate cuisine from across the sea next year.The earliest reservation the chef offered was for May next year, but I intentionally secured a seat for "October next year." "You chose autumn instead of spring?" Rina asked, tilting her head in curiosity."I want to see how the chef will use firewood on autumn ingredients," I replied.With our fingers intertwined under the counter, feeling the warmth and overwhelming satisfaction, we slowly melted into the night in the alleys of Akasaka.
We use cookies on this site to enhance your user experience.
