In Nagahama City, Shiga Prefecture, lies the birthplace of Kinoshita Tōkichirō, the first lord to own a castle.Near the bustling Kurokabe Square, in a prime location at the heart of the shopping district, stands "Kyogoku Zushi".Despite being in a busy area where people constantly pass by, the atmosphere inside the restaurant is surprisingly relaxed.The chef aims not for a high-end sushi restaurant, but for a "local sushi shop".He engages in friendly conversation, sharing insights about the ingredients and fish, and sometimes even casual chit-chat, making the experience enjoyable.While located in a tourist area, the restaurant maintains an unpretentious vibe, yet serves authentic Edomae sushi that is truly impressive.The secret lies in the fresh fish delivered daily from the renowned fishmonger "Sasue Maeda" in Yaizu."Sasue Maeda" is trusted by famous restaurants across the country, particularly known for their exceptional handling of white fish and shiny fish, enhancing the fish's potential through careful nerve-killing, temperature control, and aging.However, surprisingly few restaurants prominently feature this fresh fish as sushi.It’s astonishing to find such authentic Edomae sushi in Shiga Prefecture.I visited in mid-May, and the seasonal offerings of shiny fish and river fish were particularly outstanding.【Today's Dishes】(●: Nigiri Sushi ★: Appetizers)● Shinko (young sweetfish from Lake Biwa)Prepared with a strong saltwater brine and lightly marinated in a diluted vinegar, enhancing the unique aroma of the sweetfish while keeping the vinegar flavor gentle.The chef describes this as a "Shinko" style, showcasing an interesting blend of Edomae techniques with local Lake Biwa ingredients.● Kinmedai (Golden Eye Snapper, salted)This Kinmedai from Sasue Maeda is treated with hot sake poured over the skin, enhancing its flavor.Eating it with salt brings out the richness of the fat and the texture of the fish.A simple yet powerful nigiri that highlights the quality of the ingredients.★ Seasonal Chawanmushi (clam)Made with clams from Kuwana, it uses the essence of 20 clams, resulting in an incredibly rich flavor from the very first bite.It feels like eating the broth itself in this chawanmushi.● Aburi Kamatsu (grilled barracuda)A lightly grilled nigiri made with barracuda from Sasue Maeda.The richness of the fat and the smokiness burst in your mouth.Barracuda is known to be sensitive to stress, and this particular fish was carefully prepared using nerve-killing techniques.Eating while hearing such explanations deepens your understanding of the fish.● Ebo-dai (Ebo sea bream)Usually used for overnight drying, enjoying it as fresh fish is a testament to Sasue Maeda's skill.It is marinated in a sweet vinegar that enhances its flavor with each bite.● Biwa Masu (Lake Biwa trout)A rare find nowadays, this impressive specimen was sourced directly from local fishermen.It has a salmon-like fat content, and ginger is served alongside to balance the aftertaste.A true local delicacy from Shiga.● Tuna Zuke (marinated tuna)The red meat is aged on kombu and marinated in a soy sauce that is replenished daily.The umami of the kombu and the glossy soy sauce coat the fish beautifully.The marinating time is about 20 minutes, and the balance is exquisite.You can feel the meticulous craftsmanship typical of Edomae sushi.● Chutoro (medium fatty tuna)This part of the tuna, known as "se-toro", has a low melting point, melting in your mouth the moment you take a bite.Eating it with salt allows you to directly experience the richness of the fat.● Kohada (gizzard shad)An essential ingredient for Edomae sushi, the vinegar treatment is exquisite, highlighting the unique aroma and flavor of the kohada.According to the chef, he adjusts the vinegar strength, sweetness, and saltiness for each type of fish.Such attention to detail showcases the restaurant's excellence.● Mirugai (geoduck)Thickly sliced, the mirugai has an incredibly creamy taste, with sweetness expanding with each bite.Additionally, the grilled aroma gently wafts through the nose.● Amadai (sweetfish)Glistening with a hint of pink, the amadai shines beautifully when coated in soy sauce.Once again, I realize that the white fish from Sasue Maeda has completely different flavors.★ Amadai Scales, Deep-friedThe scales used for Matsukasa-yaki are removed from the fish and deep-fried.Crispy and fragrant, they make an excellent accompaniment to drinks.The restaurant's commitment to using every part of the fish is commendable.● Sago-shi (young Spanish mackerel)Grilled sago-shi, a young fish of the mature Spanish mackerel, is said to be low in fat and suitable for cooked dishes.It’s rare to find it as nigiri, and the grilling enhances its aroma and flavor.● Saba (mackerel)The mackerel of early summer has a moderate fat content, perfect for shime-saba (vinegared mackerel).By layering thinly sliced mackerel, the flavor and surface area are increased, deepening the taste.I’m impressed by the craftsmanship and beauty of the chef's work.● Uni (sea urchin)Additive-free uni without the use of myo-inositol.Thanks to his training in Hokkaido, the chef sources truly delicious uni.When wrapped in high-quality nori, it evokes the scent of the sea breeze from the Okhotsk Sea.★ Fish Bone SoupThis soup is made from the middle bones and scraps of fish from Sasue Maeda, grilled and simmered with just water and salt.It has a miso soup-like color, but no miso is used.Simple yet profoundly rich in fish flavor.● Anago (sea eel)Glistening anago with a slightly sweet glaze, very much in the Kansai style, offers a soft flavor.While it’s a typical Edomae sushi ingredient, it also embodies the unique character of Kyogoku Zushi.● Shinko-style Baby Horse Mackerel (additional)A seasonal specialty often seen at Sasue Maeda during this time.While baby horse mackerel is used at various restaurants that handle Sasue Maeda, Kyogoku Zushi presents it as a prototype sushi in the "Shinko-style".★ Sakura Ebi Tempura (additional)Crisp and perfectly fried, the aroma is delightful.The sweetness and fragrance of the sakura ebi fill your mouth.★ Biwa Masu Roe (complimentary)A treasure ingredient found in the fishmonger’s freezer.Last year’s roe from the Biwa masu was discovered and brought to Kyogoku Zushi, making it a rare find.Such encounters with unique ingredients are part of the joy of sushi.● Tamago (egg)Both types of tamagoyaki served at his training locations in Hokkaido and Fukui are offered.One is a castella-style egg made with surimi, typical of Edomae, and the other is a standard tamagoyaki.Both have their own charm, making for an enjoyable comparison.★ Dessert (Hojicha Pudding)Finally, a fragrant hojicha pudding.It gently concludes the meal without overshadowing the lingering taste of the sushi.With such a remarkable array of dishes, the pricing is astonishingly reasonable.I’m amazed at how they utilize Sasue Maeda’s fish to this extent and put in so much effort while maintaining such a price.Right in the heart of a tourist area.Yet, the essence is authentic Edomae sushi, sincerely engaging with the fish.Not just a place to dine while sightseeing in Nagahama,but a restaurant worth visiting solely to enjoy sushi at Kyogoku Zushi.It was a great meal!!Until next time, take care!
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