2026.7.A Longing for MoreIn Shirokane-Takanawa, the distant summer thunder rumbles in the sky. As I pass through the noren curtain, I arrive at "Sushi Matsuura."At the appointed time, a pure white noren reminiscent of the Rising Sun is displayed. Beyond it stands Mr. Osamu Matsuura, welcoming guests with a gentle smile. The moment I take my seat at the serene counter, I am certain that another blissful evening is about to begin.Brain♡♡The opening dish is a sushi roll made with the brain of tuna from Shiogama, Miyagi Prefecture. The freshly cut white leeks add a refreshing spiciness to the steaming hot rice. The rich umami of the tuna floods my senses, elevating my expectations for the night to their peak. Once again, it is delicious.Bonito♡Prepared with a quick steaming technique, the tenderness of the fish is astonishingly delicate, releasing the refined aroma unique to bonito as it melts in my mouth. The deeper I chew, the more the umami expands, leaving a beautiful aftertaste.Skipjack Tuna♡♡From Cape Erimo in Hokkaido. While it possesses the characteristic strength of skipjack, there is no hint of the typical fishiness. Instead, it offers pure, concentrated umami, leaving behind an unexpectedly high-quality sweetness after each bite. This dish redefines the concept of skipjack.Abalone♡Black abalone from Chiba Prefecture, steamed slowly for about 7 hours. With a bouncy texture, each bite releases the rich aroma of abalone, creating an ecstatic aftertaste.Ankimo Roll♡♡A signature dish of "Sushi Matsuura." The sweet ankimo (monkfish liver) is rolled with dried gourd, paired with "Time Machine Reserved" from Kinoshita Brewery in Kyoto. The deliciousness born from the combination of sweetness is not merely additive but truly multiplicative. The deep, aged aroma reminiscent of Shaoxing wine enhances the sweetness of the ankimo, showcasing a meticulously calculated pairing that leaves me in awe.Eel♡♡A specialty that symbolizes summer at "Sushi Matsuura." The skin, carefully grilled with a salamander for about 40 minutes, is fragrant and crispy, while the flesh is surprisingly fluffy and tender, enveloping my palate with a rich umami. The special soy sauce, infused with flavors from the eel's head and bones, adds layers of aroma and taste.Sweetfish with Sansho♡♡Sweetfish cooked quietly over four days without boiling the broth, accompanied by sansho pepper. The moment I take a bite, I am captivated by its tenderness. As I savor it, the fish dissolves to the bone, and the concentrated umami of the sweetfish melds beautifully with the refreshing aroma of sansho, creating a unique flavor experience.Rock Oyster♡From the Gotō Islands in Nagasaki Prefecture. As I prefer cooked oysters, they kindly accommodated my request. The texture is plump and bursting, followed by a sweet flavor that melts on my tongue. Cooking enhances the umami, leaving a long-lasting pleasant aftertaste.Mud Squid♡Delicately prepared with fine knife cuts in a grid pattern, then flipped and pounded. The moment it enters my mouth, its smooth texture clings to my tongue, releasing layers of sweetness and umami with each bite.Sea Bream with Shuto♡As the name suggests, it is truly a "sake thief." With this alone, I could keep refilling my cup, as its deep umami is dangerously delicious.White Star Sea Bream♡Directly shipped from Kagoshima Prefecture. It has an unexpectedly rich umami for a white fish, yet the aftertaste is beautifully clear. The lingering sweetness after finishing is quite memorable.Spring Sea Bream♡♡An impressively large spring sea bream. After a melt-in-your-mouth texture, the gentle sweetness of the hidden sweet shrimp and the refreshing aroma of yuzu combine, creating a splendid harmony of umami, sweetness, acidity, and saltiness.Red Meat♡From Shiogama, Miyagi Prefecture, weighing 120kg. It has a light and clear umami typical of summer, with a refreshing aroma that lingers after eating. This red meat evokes the essence of the season.Chutoro♡This is from a different catch in Shiogama. In contrast to the red meat, it has an unexpectedly rich umami and lingering sweetness that feels more like winter than summer. I am amazed at how different the expressions of tuna can be.Swordfish♡From Kinko Bay in Kagoshima Prefecture. The grilled swordfish is broken apart and mixed with rice and onion sauce. The fragrant aroma of the swordfish rises, and the acidity and salt of the rice further enhance the umami.Small Horse Mackerel♡From Tokyo Bay. The light seasoning creates a refreshing acidity, while the juicy umami bursts in my mouth, showcasing the true essence of Edomae sushi.Striped Horse Mackerel♡From Sukumo, Kochi Prefecture. Its clear umami is impressive, and with each chew, it melds with the rice, elevating the overall deliciousness.Horse Mackerel♡♡From Maizuru, Kyoto Prefecture. Only the thick center of the fillet is used luxuriously. Its rich and glossy fat is surprisingly comparable to tuna.Hokkigai (Surf Clam)♡From Oshamambe, Hokkaido. Quickly grilled on one side to impart a fragrant aroma, with sudachi citrus enhancing its sweetness. This piece achieves a high level of completion with the interplay of grilled aroma, sweetness, and acidity.Sea Urchin♡From Rebun Island, Hokkaido. The aroma of seaweed spreads beautifully, and from the deep umami reminiscent of kombu, a rich sweetness quietly emerges.Clam and Aosa Seaweed Miso SoupThe concentrated umami of clams combined with the rich aroma of aosa seaweed. This miso soup is so flavorful that I want to drink every last drop.Conger Eel♡A rare dish prepared with a sweet glaze. However, it does not rely on the glaze; the inherent umami and aroma of the conger eel take center stage. As it is still early in the season, I eagerly anticipate how much more delicious it will become.Dashi-Maki Tamago (Japanese Omelette)♡♡"I will go make the tamagoyaki!" says Chef Matsuura as he heads to the kitchen. The freshly made dashi-maki tamago is hot and fluffy, with the rich flavor of the eggs and the refined umami of the dashi spreading in layers, providing a sense of happiness that perfectly concludes the meal.Brown Sugar Sorbet♡The dessert is homemade brown sugar sorbet. Of course, I ordered a double. The deep richness and gentle sweetness of the brown sugar fill my mouth, and when I pour "Time Machine" over it, the aged sweetness adds a new dimension, transforming it into a completely different dessert.From Hokkaido in the north to Kagoshima in the south, I feel as though I am traveling across Japan with each piece of carefully selected ingredient. However, the charm of this restaurant is not just in the exquisite ingredients arriving from all over the country. It is also in Chef Matsuura's passion, skill, and, above all, his warm personality that brings out the best in each dish.Customers smile at the chef's smile, and seeing that smile makes the chef smile back. With the addition of seasonal blessings, a natural chain of happiness unfolds within the restaurant.This is not a place to visit solely for delicious sushi.It is a restaurant where people bring happiness to one another, and that happiness creates the next smile. It is a warm place that makes you want to return time and again.