2025.6.A Heartfelt Experience of Flavor and SpaceIn the ancient city of Kamakura, bathed in the soft, golden light of the setting sun, I walked against the flow of the crowd on Komachi Street and arrived at Kanagawa's pride, the Nouvelle Chinoise "Ichirin Hanare." Inside this renovated traditional Japanese house, I enjoyed Chinese cuisine that reconstructs tradition, starting with their specialty, "Tanba Takasaka Jidori" (Saliva Chicken). Tonight, I made my annual request to the owner, Hirofumi Saito, to enjoy a dish featuring soft-shelled turtle.The uniquely presented menu is placed next to each set of cutlery, but since they have prepared a special course just for me tonight, it isn’t necessary. I appreciate this thoughtful gesture, and my excitement grows.**Clams and Bamboo Shoots**♡♡ Using 1% saltwater, which is used to cook the bamboo shoots harvested by fishmonger Daiki Hasegawa, I enjoyed them combined with clams also sourced by him. The first sip of the soup revealed an astonishing umami. The clams had a bouncy texture, and as I chewed, the flavor exploded in my mouth. The bamboo shoots added a delightful crunch, making this dish simply delicious.**Bracken Fern**♡ Springy noodles made from bracken flour were paired with Ashitaba from Miura, Kanagawa, and served with a sour-spicy sauce made from black vinegar and pepper. The strong, chewy texture of the noodles was refreshing with a light acidity and spiciness, while the subtle bitterness of the Ashitaba provided a lovely accent.**Sagami Bay**♡ The flatfish delivered by Hasegawa was transformed into a salad with new onions, urui, snap peas, and jellyfish. Topped with a mix of kaki-pi, bubu-arare, and kabuki-age tossed in chili oil, this dish was like an orchestra of textures, each ingredient harmonizing beautifully. The spiciness spread in my mouth, yet the umami of the flatfish was distinctly present, leaving a strong impression.**Blue Crab**♡ The blue crab I requested was marinated in Shaoxing wine before being served. The amber-hued meat and the yellow, glistening roe absorbed the flavors and sweetness of the blended Shaoxing wine, making it incredibly delicious.**Lamp Shadow**♡ This traditional Sichuan appetizer features beef sliced ultra-thin, dried, and then fried with Sichuan pepper and chili. The term "lamp shadow" is fitting, as each slice is so thin that light shines through it. Surprisingly, the numbing and spicy flavors were not overpowering; the crispy texture followed by a gentle kick allowed the beef's umami to shine through.**Tanba Takasaka Jidori**♡ The unchanging specialty of "Ichirin Hanare" since its opening is the Saliva Chicken made from the brand chicken "Tanba Takasaka Jidori." The chicken, submerged in a bright red sauce, is rich in flavor and stands up to the spiciness of the sauce. Enjoying it with the small dollop of white liver pâté on top enhances the experience.**Dumplings with Noodles**♡ This specialty is also highly versatile. The freshly made dumplings are dipped in the sauce, and at the end, noodles mixed with Sichuan pepper are added. The dumplings, with their thick, chewy skin, are delicious on their own, so I recommend taking a bite before dipping.**Shark Fin**♡ At "Ichirin Hanare," the shark fin is not stewed but prepared in a grilled style. The fins are crisped on both sides and served with a rich chicken broth-based sauce. The crunchy texture of the fins is delightful, and the richness coats the lips beautifully. After finishing the fins, jasmine rice cooked in the same broth is served, which is also exquisite.**Soft-Shelled Turtle**♡♡ The soft-shelled turtle was marinated in a special broth and then coated in Chinese tempura flour before being fried and stir-fried with coconut powder, scallions, fried garlic, and breadcrumbs. The light, crispy coating is impressive, contrasting with the tender turtle meat that absorbs the deep flavors of the broth, making it devilishly delicious.**Charcoal-Grilled**♡♡ A platter of soft-shelled turtle, Yamayuri pork char siu, and flatfish soft roe. Tonight's turtle is not just grilled; it is enveloped in the rich flavors and sweetness of the marinade, creating a deep, satisfying taste. The char siu made from Kanagawa's brand pork "Yamayuri Pork" has a wonderful juiciness and sweetness. The flatfish soft roe, which was grilled after being discovered during preparation, has a slightly firm texture but a creamy sweetness that is delightful. All three dishes brought immense happiness, and I am grateful for their preparation.**Water Lily**♡ Tonight, it was prepared with garlic and dried shrimp for flavor. This Taiwanese vegetable, water lily, has an exceptionally crisp texture, shining simply with the punch of garlic and the umami of dried shrimp.**Steamed Meat**♡♡ The main dish tonight is a steamed hamburger infused with mandarin peel, served with a small portion of rice. The meat's umami intertwines with a subtly sweet sauce, and the aroma of cilantro provides a perfect accent, making it a true rice thief of a dish.**Soft-Shelled Turtle II**♡♡ Tonight's clear soup noodles feature soft-shelled turtle. The elegant yet profound flavor of the clear broth is elevated by the umami of the turtle. With plenty of turtle included, it feels like this dish could extend my lifespan.**Strawberry** Tonight's dessert is almond tofu. I took a bite first and then drizzled fresh strawberry syrup over it. The subtle acidity of the strawberries enhances the sweetness of the almond tofu, making it delicious.**Tea Sweets** From left to right: Oriental Beauty Cookies, White Sesame Caramel, Sichuan Pepper Chocolate Cake, Chili Macadamia Nuts, Dried Figs.Tonight, I requested dishes featuring soft-shelled turtle. Kohei Yamaguchi, who prepared them, also enjoys this ingredient. There have been times when it appeared on the menu without a request, but it seems many customers had a preference against it, making it a legendary dish now. Dishes made with soft-shelled turtle by someone who loves it are undoubtedly delicious, and I enjoyed it again this year. Thank you very much!Next time, I hope to request something new at "Ichirin Hanare." Thank you for a wonderful evening!