Revisiting after 14 years. This is my second visit, just a short walk from Yotsuya Station. A French restaurant known to anyone who loves French cuisine: Kitajima Tei.Fourteen years ago, this was where my journey into French cuisine began. Since then, I have visited various restaurants and experienced many different French dishes. I felt the urge to return to my roots and decided to visit again.We were a party of four for dinner.The course options are a 3-course or a 4-course prefix. The 3-course option is JPY 16,940, while the 4-course option is JPY 18,150. Since the difference is only JPY 1,210, we naturally chose the 4-course option.Here’s what we ordered: 4-course meal (JPY 18,150), additional charges for selected dishes (JPY 1,210) 4 glasses of wine (JPY 8,470) Total bill: JPY 27,830 (all prices include tax)The selected course included the following dishes: (★ indicates shared by two) (1) Chilled cucumber soup with a hint of mint (2) Légumes à la Grecque (marinated vegetables) (3) Cold appetizer: Lobster and scallop tartare with carrot salad (4) Hot appetizer: ★ Stuffed red pepper with mozzarella cheese or Hungarian foie gras poêlé (5) Fish dish: Grilled flounder with potato crust and sauce de poisson (6) Meat dish: ★ Black Wagyu top sirloin steak or roasted duck breast (7) Lime granita (8) Dessert: Nougat glacé with three types of berry sauce (9) Post-meal drinks and six types of petit fours Although it’s called a 4-course meal, (1), (2), (7), (8), and (9) are automatically included, making it a total of 9 dishes. The 4 counted courses (3), (4), (5), and (6) are substantial and impressive, so once again, I left feeling quite full. Kitajima Tei remains as strong as ever.The dishes reflect the essence of classic French cuisine. However, they are not merely nostalgic flavors; there are surprises that make you think, "Oh, I didn’t expect that!" The base flavors are robust, and the variations in ingredients, sauces, and seasonings create a delightful range of tastes. I was reminded once again of the complexity of classic French cuisine. I realized that I still have much to learn about classic French cooking and that there are many flavors I have yet to discover.The grilled flounder with potato crust and sauce de poisson was absolutely delicious. The sauce de poisson was outstanding, enhancing the flounder’s flavor significantly. Additionally, crispy potato shavings on top amplified the flounder’s skin’s crispiness, while a bed of mashed potatoes underneath connected the flounder and the sauce de poisson. This subtle technique came together to create a truly exceptional dish.Moreover, the chilled cucumber soup with a hint of mint was a standout, far surpassing similar soups from other restaurants. The refreshing taste of cucumber was beautifully expressed in this chilled soup, with no unpleasant cucumber odor, just pure freshness. The mint subtly enhanced the refreshing quality. I’ve had chilled cucumber soup at various places, but this flavor is truly unique.The cold appetizer of lobster and scallop tartare with carrot salad was also delightful. The lobster and scallop were perfectly integrated, and the sauce that connected them was intriguing. A hint of curry flavor added a surprisingly pleasant touch.However, while I was impressed by the vegetable and seafood dishes, I felt somewhat underwhelmed by the meat dishes this time.That said, classic French cuisine is still wonderful. It offers a sense of stability and reassurance backed by skill. In an era where light and glamorous French cuisine is in vogue, perhaps this classic style is, in fact, something new.
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