Dinner at Chisou Nishikenichi

Dinner at Chisou Nishikenichi

at Chisou Nishikenichi on 14 July 2026
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I was invited by a friend to Chisou Nishi Kenichi. I’m not the type to actively make reservations, but when invited, I’m always up for it. In fact, I’ve been here several times now.First, I had the corn soup made from the Dolche Dream variety. This year, I’ve seen this type quite often, and it has a rich sweetness.Next, I enjoyed a fritter made with what I believe was red sea bream, served with a tartar sauce that had a nice vinegar kick. It was quite delicious.Following that, I had a marinated horse mackerel that was almost sashimi. It was paired with a sauce that also had a vinegar element, and the presentation was beautiful, incorporating Kaga vegetables, which was an interesting touch. The quality of the horse mackerel itself was also high.Then came the squid and eggplant. It paired well with the rosé wine. The dish seemed to highlight the unique flavor of the squid without masking it.The seaweed bread had a strong aroma, enough to enjoy with just wine on its own.The golden eye snapper was served with a lobster bisque sauce. While the delicate flavor of the fish was slightly overshadowed by the sauce, it was still tasty.The white sweetfish was likely fried and baked. The powdered beets provided a nice accent.Then came the chef's specialty: a pie filled with raw shirasu (whitebait). The outer layer was cooked thoroughly while the center remained raw. This contrast was likely intentional, but I found it a bit unbalanced. The shirasu were quite large, and the texture difference between the outer and inner layers felt too stark. Although grilling it in a pie makes it challenging to achieve the right doneness, this was a bit disappointing.The abalone was won in a game of rock-paper-scissors, a unique rule at Sasue. It was impressively large, and the liver sauce risotto was undeniably delicious. The cooking time was short, preserving the firmness of the flesh. This dish was flawless.For dessert, the sauce paired with the mango was surprisingly made from tea. This was the most memorable part of the meal. It was delicious. The ice cream, made from some kind of grass that seemed to grow nearby, had a striking aroma and provided a refreshing finish to the course.After tasting everything, I felt there was an abundance of fish. Of course, having a lot of fish isn’t inherently bad. I enjoy the flow of dishes and wine elevating each other in French cuisine. If the wine pairings had naturally progressed in quality throughout the course, I think I would have enjoyed it more. However, this time, I didn’t feel much variation in either the dishes or the wine throughout the meal.Another point of concern was the connection between the dishes. For instance, the marinated horse mackerel with Kaga vegetables was interesting, but I expected some development from there, and I didn’t see a connection with the subsequent dishes. Looking back, I wonder what the purpose of the Kaga vegetables was. If an impressive Kaga vegetable had appeared early on, I would have been curious about what would come next. Is it just me who expects a consistent message or story in French cuisine? Each dish should contribute to a cohesive narrative throughout the entire course."Still fish?" "Oh, this is the end." That was the impression I had, leaving me feeling somewhat unfulfilled.In contrast to an Italian restaurant of a similar genre within the Sasue group, where fish is treated as an element of the course while balancing it with other ingredients, this place seemed to focus heavily on how to present Sasue fish. While that might be the restaurant's identity, the overwhelming emphasis on fish made the progression of the meal less clear.I prefer dishes that not only highlight the ingredients but also subtly enhance them with French techniques and creativity.So this time, I felt more like I was "accompanying the fish" rather than truly "enjoying the fish."Perhaps this is a reflection of the chef's passion for Sasue fish, having come from Hiroshima to Shizuoka, and it’s an appealing restaurant when you want to enjoy a different style of French cuisine centered around Sasue fish. It might have been a bit too strict for my taste.But if invited again, I would surely go back.

8 / 10