Recommended bowl: One of Nerima's best

Gottsu is all about new-school Tokyo ramen. The shop interior is slick and spotless. The ramen is served in tall, angular white bowls. The house specialty is a velvety tonkotsu gyokai soup with the tiniest hint of sweetness. The chashu topping is sliced paper-thin and roasted in a way that calls to mind high-quality ham or bacon. Both the menma and soft-boiled egg are superb. Tiny slivers of yuzu peel top it off with some freshness. No MSG. An excellent bowl.

In addition to the specialty, Gottsu also serves a niboshi with chicken ramen, as well as a tsukemen option. Order anything on the menu with confidence. Master Saitou-san apprenticed at Watanabe in Takadanobaba before founding his own shop, which he runs with his wife.