Recommended bowl: High-level hidden gem

Onozato-san, the master of Rabo, previously owned and operated Anaya, a respected ramen shop in Hatsudai. In 2013, he sold Anaya to an apprentice and unveiled Rabo in a back alley in nearby Nishi Shinjuku. The space has the character of a former Japanese snack bar that's been retrofitted for ramen. The house specialty is chuka soba, with a shoyu base, made with chicken. The master also began offering a chicken shio ramen in November 2014. Both bowls are excellent.

Onozato-san makes wonderful handmade noodles and works alone, running every aspect of the shop solo. About a decade ago, he supplied his noodles to top shops all across Tokyo. He's a veteran of the Tokyo ramen scene, and it's reflected in the bowl: choice ingredients, masterfully prepared and presented.