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Sushi M in Omotesando stands as a prime destination for those in pursuit of an elevated dining encounter, led by the adept hands of Chef Michimasa Nakamura and Sommelier Yoshinobu Kimura. Nakamura, known for his ventures Sushi Shin in Shirokane and Sushi Shin Hanare in Nishi-Azabu, innovates within the realm of sushi while paying homage to its traditions. Kimura, with his rich background as the head sommelier at the celebrated two-Michelin-starred Narisawa, orchestrates a beverage pairing that is nothing short of extraordinary.
My recent dining experience at Sushi M in Omotesando was a journey of contrasting elements, where the culinary narrative was as much about the beverages as it was about the sushi itself.
The omakase menu, dedicated to nigiri, spanned an ambitious 20 pieces. Each sushi piece aimed to tell its own story, albeit with varying degrees of success. The shari, or sushi rice, which is fundamental to the experience, initially presented itself as too subtle, teetering on the brink of being underwhelming. This lack of seasoning led to a somewhat muted foundation for the early courses.
However, as the meal progressed, the tune changed dramatically with the introduction of the tuna section. Here, Sushi M demonstrated its culinary prowess with some truly exceptional offerings that showcased the depth and versatility of this beloved fish. Each piece in this section was a testament to the potential of sushi when every element sings in harmony.
Yet, the undeniable star of the evening was not found on the plate but in the glass. The beverage pairing at Sushi M is nothing short of phenomenal, perhaps one of the finest I’ve encountered. The range of wines and sakes selected to accompany the meal was breathtaking, from a venerable 1979 Chablis, its age lending it a character and depth that belied its years, to a creative cocktail blending unfiltered sake with 12-year-old Macallan whiskey—a daring and successful endeavor to marry Eastern and Western traditions in a single sip.
The ‘M’ in Sushi M stands for ‘mariage,’ and never has this been more apt than in the context of their drink pairings. The thoughtfulness and expertise evident in the selection suggest a sommelier at the peak of their powers, capable of elevating an already exclusive dining experience into something truly memorable.
In conclusion, while the sushi at Sushi M may occasionally falter in its quest for perfection, the beverage pairings soar, offering a sublime testament to the art of matching food with drink. For aficionados of fine wines and sakes, a visit to Sushi M offers an unparalleled opportunity to indulge in pairings that are as imaginative as they are impeccable.
6 / 10
