Le Gabriel, housed in the prestigious Hôtel La Réserve in Paris, is renowned for its elegant take on modern French haute cuisine under the helm of Chef Jérôme Banctel. The restaurant has garnered significant acclaim, including two Michelin stars, thanks to its fusion of classical French techniques with international influences. Chef Banctel, drawing from his time at famed kitchens like Lucas Carton and his travels to countries like Japan and Spain, is known for integrating flavors and techniques from diverse culinary traditions into his creations. His dedication to seasonality and refinement is evident in every dish, and the restaurant’s setting provides an ambiance of opulence befitting the high-end clientele it attracts.
Given its accolades and reputation, expectations for Le Gabriel are understandably high. Chef Banctel’s international menu, which draws on his travels, is a key offering that promises a unique culinary journey. However, despite its fine-dining status, the execution of this concept can fall short, as seen during a recent meal where the international menu’s ambitious approach failed to deliver.
The meal began with three consecutive dishes utilizing a Turkish limestone cooking technique, where vegetables are cooked on the outside but remain soft inside. While this method provides an interesting textural experience, having three courses based on the same technique became repetitive and uninspiring. It overshadowed the novelty of the method, which might have been more impactful in a single, well-placed course.
The next course, a tuna dish served with satay sauce, was a significant letdown. The fish itself had a fishy taste and lacked the delicate texture one expects from fine seafood. Furthermore, the satay sauce, which should have brought depth and warmth, lacked the signature peanut spiciness, resulting in a flat, unbalanced flavor profile.
The seabass that followed was well-cooked and tasty, showcasing Banctel’s ability to execute classical dishes well. However, the portion size was far too large for a tasting menu, leaving the diner feeling overwhelmed at a point where refinement and lightness should have been paramount.
The biggest disappointment came with the main course: a suckling pig from Burgos, Spain. As someone well-acquainted with authentic Spanish suckling pig, this dish was unrecognizable. The meat was tough and chewy on the outside and dried out inside, a far cry from the tender, succulent texture that makes this dish a classic.
While Le Gabriel’s pedigree as a fine-dining restaurant is undeniable, flaws in execution and menu composition on this occasion left much to be desired. For a newly anointed three-star establishment, this experience did not meet expectations.
