The Last Hurrah (in hindsight) at Restaurant Alois - Dallmayr Fine Dining

The Last Hurrah (in hindsight) at Restaurant Alois - Dallmayr Fine Dining

at Alois - Dallmayr Fine Dining on 1 July 2023
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Having savored the delectable creations of Max Natmessnig on multiple occasions, my visit to Alois marked the first time experiencing his culinary artistry in the enchanting ambiance of this esteemed establishment.Having savored the delectable creations of Max Natmessnig on multiple occasions, my visit to Alois marked the first time experiencing his culinary artistry in the enchanting ambiance of this esteemed establishment. It was evident that he had honed his skills and added complexity to the dishes, creating a remarkable dining experience. Each plate presented a perfect balance of flavors, executed with precision and delivering an explosion of taste.

Max's exceptional talent lies in his ability to map out flavors and textures in his mind, effortlessly combining them to create harmonious and symbiotic compositions. Take, for example, the initial amuse bouche—a seemingly simple vegetable consommé. However, the depth of concentration and abundant umami flavors within this humble dish were truly remarkable.

The progression of canapés that followed was a testament to Max's artistry. Each bite was a burst of delectable flavors, teasing my palate and leaving me eager for more. However, it was the main courses that truly showcased Max's culinary prowess.

The Bavarian arctic char tartare, brined and blowtorched over binchotan charcoal, was served alongside a delicate buttermilk foam and raw kohlrabi. The earthy and firm kohlrabi provided a delightful contrast to the flavorful fish, while the garnish of black lime powder and chives added a touch of freshness.

Another standout dish was the slices of abalone from Brittany, nestled on a bed of Japanese koji rice and accompanied by a sauce flavored with abalone liver and pickled kombu seaweed vinaigrette. The abalone was exquisitely tender, a testament to Max's skillful preparation. The dish achieved perfect balance, with the crispness of the Koshihikari rice complementing the abalone's texture flawlessly.

Grilled turbot from Brittany, dry-aged to perfection, was served with a tantalizing sauce made from the fish's skirt, prawns, and mussels. The addition of escabeche mussels and prawns as a garnish added depth and complexity to the dish. The combination of the turbot's fleshy texture, the well-balanced acidity, and the layered flavors made it one of my personal favorites.

While I thoroughly enjoyed the intricate flavors and textures that Max presented, I did find myself yearning for a touch of Japanese focus and simplicity. This is purely a matter of personal preference and does not detract from the fact that the meal was exceptional.

Looking back, I feel fortunate to have experienced Max Natmessnig's culinary expertise during my only visit to Alois. It saddens me to learn that he will be departing after only a year to pursue another exciting project in a different country. I wish him the best of luck, and I eagerly await the opportunity to explore his future endeavors in a new culinary destination.

To anyone fortunate enough to dine at Alois under Max's guidance until the end of July 2023, I wholeheartedly recommend indulging in his masterful creations. Prepare to be captivated by his phenomenal talent and to embark on a culinary journey that will leave a lasting impression.

International
Modern French
9 / 10

Vegetable Consommé

Trout, Horseradish, Wasabi

Beef Tartelette, Caviar, Truffle

Nori, Stracciatella, Pea Sprouts

Tamago, Salmon Caviar, Aged Mirin

Duck Liver, Mango, Purple Curry

Char, Buttermilk, Chive, Kohlrabi

Abalone, Koshihikari Rice, Caviar

Squid, Romesco, Hearts of Palm

Turbot, Pil Pil, Mussels, Fig Leaf

Langostino, Nam Prik, Pandan

Mushrooms, Duck Liver, Truffle

Palate Cleanser